Ring around the cylinder!

[target17]

I'm sure this is old but I'm new to this site. Ajusting the cylinder bolt to not pop up early and leave the ring on the cylinder between the notches. I worked on a S&W 686 untill I got it to not pop up untill it was in the releaf just before the notch. I stayed in touch with the owner, it lasted about a year. I received a new Uberti a few years back that did not pop up untill it was starting into the notch. Any of you guys had any luck with this?
Tom

 

[target17]

I'm sure this is old but I'm new to this site. Ajusting the cylinder bolt to not pop up early and leave the ring on the cylinder between the notches. I worked on a S&W 686 untill I got it to not pop up untill it was in the releaf just before the notch. I stayed in touch with the owner, it lasted about a year. I received a new Uberti a few years back that did not pop up untill it was starting into the notch. Any of you guys had any luck with this?
Tom

 

[VM]

The cylinder stop is going to make that mark on all S&W's.
Don't try to alter or modify it.

A lot of people don't like the ring but it is normal.

 

[danski]

Target17,

After working on the 686, did you shoot it fast in double action or mostly slow or just single action?

 

[target17]

danski: I shot it very slow in S/A, I'm not sure how the owner shot it.
Tom

 

[target17]

VM: Yes Sir I know it's normal, its alot of trouble also.
Tom

 

[Fastbolt]

The 'ring' you're describing between the cylinder stop notches is generally called a 'stop track' in S&W revolvers, caused by the ball of the cylinder stop rising (as designed) and commonly contacting the cylinder until it can snap up into one of the cylinder notches.

It's cosmetic.

Recovery of the cylinder stop is important. Reliability is important. The cylinder stop is subject to a lot of force when DA firing is occurring and the cylinder is being forcefully rotated by firmly functioning the trigger.

Personally, I wouldn't fool around with trying to resolve a perceived cosmetic issue on a S&W revolver at the risk of creating an actual functioning issue, myself.

If the cylinder stop ends up going below the frame slot and becoming trapped under the frame (because of being modified, for example) a condition called 'throw by' can occur, where the stop can't rise to engage the cylinder. In cases like this the result can be the cylinder rotating and not stopping until loss of momentum occurs. Not a good thing.

S&W revolver armorers are taught to correct different problems and undesired conditions by opening the cylinder stop's slot (not the frame slot), or reducing the length of the stop's point and perhaps even filing the adjustment step on top of the stop ... but these repairs are all done to restore intended normal functioning and reliability, not for cosmetic considerations.

Sometimes folks have to carefully consider the potential advantages & disadvantages when trying to decide between "practical" vs. "fashionable" and "function" vs. "appearance".

My comments are only intended to apply to S&W design revolvers.

Just my thoughts.

 

[target17]

Fastbolt is 100% correct in everything he has said. I should have explained myself better. As stated by fastbolt this is a cosmetic thing, I enjoy doing this on guns that are Not for protection purposes, all but one has been my own. I hope this clears it up.
Tom

 

[Fastbolt]

Please don't mistake my posting as being critical. I didn't intend it that way.

It was intended more in the way of a conservatively cautionary suggestion to consider.

I'm not an expert and just like to err on the side of safety.

Now, I wouldn't want a stop track marking the pristine cylinder of a silver plated, engraved Colt single action revolver myself.

FWIW, I remember the first time I asked someone from a firearms company how to prevent the cylinder from being ringed with a stop track on one of their design revolvers. I was told just to not rotate the cylinder.

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by target17:
I'm sure this is old but I'm new to this site. Ajusting the cylinder bolt to not pop up early and leave the ring on the cylinder between the notches. I worked on a S&W 686 untill I got it to not pop up untill it was in the releaf just before the notch.

That is not how it is designed to work. It is supposed to pop up about 40% of the way to the next notch (measured from the last notch).

 

[target17]

Thats strange all this time I thought it was about cost. So they go to all that trouble to design their revolovers to leave a ugly mark on 60% of the cylinder.
Don't go ballistic on me guys just a little HA! HA!
Tom

 

[danski]

Ruger also has the bolt/cylinder stop rising before it hits the notches, both on single actions and double action models.

By comparison I've never seen a Colt, i.e. a Python, hold up as well as a S&W from fast, hard
double action work.

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by target17:
Thats strange all this time I thought it was about cost. So they go to all that trouble to design their revolovers to leave a ugly mark on 60% of the cylinder.
Don't go ballistic on me guys just a little HA! HA!
Tom

It has to hug the cylinder a little before the slot so it will drop in securely when doing a fast trigger pull or cocking motion.

 

[target17]

I understand what your saying, but I think poping up at the being of, I forgot what it's called, how about the dished out slope before it gets to the notch. I'll have to give it a try, I'll have to find some one that can shoot fast. Fast is not a part of my life any more. I would say in the hands of the worlds fastest it could be a problem. Please remember this is more about cosmitic, but can still be handled and shot with out marking the cylinder.
Tom

 

[tac803]

Originally posted by target17:
I understand what your saying, but I think poping up at the being of, I forgot what it's called, how about the dished out slope before it gets to the notch. I'll have to give it a try, I'll have to find some one that can shoot fast. Fast is not a part of my life any more. I would say in the hands of the worlds fastest it could be a problem. Please remember this is more about cosmitic, but can still be handled and shot with out marking the cylinder.
Tom

I agree with the earlier posters. Don't mess with it. If the cylinder stop fails to engage properly after you play with it, and the round is misalingned with the barrel but still has the primer in a position to be struck by the firing pin, you'll have a lot more cosmetic damage than you bargained for. Just my opinion.

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by target17:
but can still be handled and shot with out marking the cylinder.
Tom

The answer is no. Even when you close the cylinder, you have to turn it slightly to get it to lock and that also puts the fine line you see on part of the cylinder.

Methinks you are obsessing about something you need to accept.

For the record: given the SW design, I do not think it is possible to set up the trigger nose and stop latch so that it lowers the correct amount and will stay down until the cylinder rotates all the way to the next slot. If the latch is lowered below the edge of the frame, it can hang there and not come back up (allowing the cylinder to spin past the correct position). That is dangerous as you could fire a round with the cylinder misaligned to the barrel.

 

[target17]

Well that settles that it can't be done.
Thank You
Tom