BillBro
Member
That looks fine.
Rockchucker make over
- Thread starter lppd4
- Start date
ArchAngelCD
Moderator, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
I'm happy to hear my suggestions will work out for you. I figured they are a low cost upgrade that will match what you already did. Don't forget the photo when you're done...
You'll never sell it now for what you paid for it because you refinished it. WTH were you thinking?
Looks odd. You're one of those guys that would restore a 36 Ford and paint it canary yellow.
Seriously, I like it.
Looks odd. You're one of those guys that would restore a 36 Ford and paint it canary yellow.
Seriously, I like it.
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I like it. I still have the RCBS RC I bought in the mid 70's. Still green but showing it's age. I have about 6 other presses to use now, but the original is still in the line.
Paul in Nevada
Member
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I will overlook the heresy of changing the color to say that it turned out real nice.
ArchAngelCD
Moderator, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
I'm so glad the suggestions I made.look so good on your press. That handle will help when reloading heavier rifle cartridges, I know for a fact...
I'm so glad the suggestions I made.look so good on your press. That handle will help when reloading heavier rifle cartridges, I know for a fact...
thanks This version of the press, which replaced an earlier version in the 90's, came with the ball handle. And must of forgotten ya recommending using a lag bolt head for positive lever stop?
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gwpercle
Member
If anyone out there wants/needs to re-paint anything RCBS Green , like a loading press , Rustoleum makes a 12 ounce Spray called Hammered Verde Green , #7219830 , that looks really close to RCBS Green and it can be picked up at any big box store that sells Rustoleum Paint . Big spray can is plenty to re-finish a press and a rotary case trimmer body ... 2 coats each . It may not be an exact match ... but it's cloce enough for government work .
Gary
Gary
One last comment from me about RCBS. I ordered a new handle, ball and spent primer catch tray. They sent the items to me and have not charged me a dime. What great customer service, I explained my press was older and I was redoing it, I did not need the parts I wanted the parts and still no charge. Thats hard to beat
Ivan the Butcher
Member
My Rock Chucker is so old it's the pale green color. The original spent primer catcher is cast aluminum and was equipped with two tiny horns for a rubber band to wrap around the back of the press to hold it in place. The rubber bands didn't work very well so I drilled 3/64" hole just below the horns and use a mini-Bunji cord. When the spent primer tray is full, it is wisest to have a waste basket or trash can below it while emptying! Otherwise, you end up chasing spent primers.
My 45-70 die kicks the primers with such force they just bounce out of the tray. I use a 1" tall by 2" wide piece of thin clear plastic as a shield to prevent a mess. I use 2 tiny butterfly clamps to hold it in place.
If I prime with the included priming arm, I remove the plastic shield.
Ivan
My 45-70 die kicks the primers with such force they just bounce out of the tray. I use a 1" tall by 2" wide piece of thin clear plastic as a shield to prevent a mess. I use 2 tiny butterfly clamps to hold it in place.
If I prime with the included priming arm, I remove the plastic shield.
Ivan
Have an older pale green one from before and bought a piggy pack for it after buying newer version. However it and the piggy back are still just sitting.
Am using masking tape to wrap around back of press and tighten up primer catch tray. Also use the tape to make angled shield in front to stop primers from bouncing out, while keeping sufficient access to shell holder while sizing/depriming.
Protocall_Design
Vendor
When I'm using a press with a ball on the handle, I wear a cotton glove with the fingers cut off, or put the toe part of an old sock over the ball. That makes your hand slide over the ball easily, preventing any friction.
I started using a RC about a yr and 1/2 ago.
A used press bought at a gunshow to replace the Lyman Orange Crusher I had been using for the last 25 or more yrs.
The Lyman just had a few things about it that were becoming uncomfortable to use as I got older. Maybe the linkage doesn't have the power for case conversions I really need but didn't notice till now.
I think the Ball handle slipping & coming off in my hand on a particularly powerfull downstroke was the final straw.
Anyway, the only thing I noticed about the RC right away was that the decapped primer would slide down the channel in the front of the elevated ram and right into the slot where the flat spring was located that powers the primer arm.
Often that would jam the forward motion of the next move of priming the case.
A real pain in operation.
I've gotten into the habit of sliding my left thumb over the slot in the ram and trapping the spent primer and flicking it aside after it falls so it doesn't drop into the primer arm spring abyss.
Such a small thing,,but it can really become a nuisance.
I really like the press otherwise. The plastic primer tray is held in place with a twist tie around the back of the frame. Works OK. Sounds like many are rigged so they 'work OK'.
Powerful linkage, easy to resize and do cart conversions.
Made in 81 I believe if that's what the small mark indicates on the oversize die thead insert on top.
I might go for the shovel handle type conversion, that sounds like it would be a comfortable change to make.
No paint shop project,,it looks just fine for me as it is.
Looks like Spartan grey. 
Kind of remember using a RC priming attachment once. Then bought a RCBS hand primer with the round tray. Was much happier after.
ggibson511960
Member
Wobble??
What wobbled? I can't imagine wearing down any bearing surface with only armstrong force, but I suppose it happens. The loading on the ram is slightly eccentric at the beginning of a stroke, but not under heavy compression. The linkage pins are another story, always radially loaded. De-priming always seems to sprinkle a lot of crud on the press that would accelerate wear.
What wobbled? I can't imagine wearing down any bearing surface with only armstrong force, but I suppose it happens. The loading on the ram is slightly eccentric at the beginning of a stroke, but not under heavy compression. The linkage pins are another story, always radially loaded. De-priming always seems to sprinkle a lot of crud on the press that would accelerate wear.
Ivan the Butcher
Member
I'm using the old ball arm off my Dillon, it is 2" longer, and that helps a lot!
The Dillon got upgraded around 2000, with the Roller Arm, The Tool Head frame, Press Mounted Tool Kit and Cartridge feeder.
The Roller Arm and Tool Kit are worth the cost! The Tool head is a nice feature. The Case feeder, makes loading easier, but really isn't any faster and makes your 550 into a short case only press! (If I had it to do over again, I'd pass!)
But the old arm works great on the Rock Chucker. The RC also sports a Hornady conversion bushing to use Lock-N-Load quick change adapters. I use them to speed up Long Case loading.
Ivan
The Dillon got upgraded around 2000, with the Roller Arm, The Tool Head frame, Press Mounted Tool Kit and Cartridge feeder.
The Roller Arm and Tool Kit are worth the cost! The Tool head is a nice feature. The Case feeder, makes loading easier, but really isn't any faster and makes your 550 into a short case only press! (If I had it to do over again, I'd pass!)
But the old arm works great on the Rock Chucker. The RC also sports a Hornady conversion bushing to use Lock-N-Load quick change adapters. I use them to speed up Long Case loading.
Ivan
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