rounds not firing

[ldhunter1959]

I have taken my new-to-me Model 13 out the range a couple of times and in both instances I have had a couple of rounds not fire. The primer shows a strike, but no bang. Even after multiple tries.
I am using a lee classic turret press with CCI small pistol primers with .38 special loads (just ordered another set of dies to set up a stand-alone .357 magnum).
The first time, I had two rounds out of about 75 that failed to fire. The second time I went through about 250 rounds and had two rounds fail to fire.
Where should I be looking as to the issue? Is it the revolver, the primer or the reloading technique?
Any ideas?

 

[David Sinko]

Make sure the primers are seated just below flush and the mainspring strain screw is turned all the way in tight against the grip frame. If that does not cure the problem, report back.

Dave Sinko

 

[Rule3]

Try what David Sinko suggests but what I always check is will it fire FACTORY ammo. If so then you know it's not the gun (firing pin, hammer spring etc) Then look to the reloading. Will your rounds fire in another gun??

 

[Skip Sackett]

I have taken my new-to-me Model 13 out the range a couple of times and in both instances I have had a couple of rounds not fire. The primer shows a strike, but no bang. Even after multiple tries.
I am using a lee classic turret press with CCI small pistol primers with .38 special loads (just ordered another set of dies to set up a stand-alone .357 magnum).
The first time, I had two rounds out of about 75 that failed to fire. The second time I went through about 250 rounds and had two rounds fail to fire.
Where should I be looking as to the issue? Is it the revolver, the primer or the reloading technique?
Any ideas?

USUALLY, (that is a qualifying statement) if there is a few failure to fires in a group, it is a reloading technique problem, usually. It stems from the primer not being seated as Dave has said, usually. (Hope I am saying that enough! )

Every once in a while, another problem turns up. Whether it is components, such as primers, or something else, like media stuck in the flash holes.

I have had that happen but only when I used to tumble my brass with the primers knocked out. Now, I don't to that. I tumble with the primers in. It is possible that the brass is so dirty that they can't seat properly. Then you have to use a tool to clean them.

All of the other suggestions are great too.

As was requested, report back when you find the cause!

 

[ldhunter1959]

I have not had any failure to fire with my .38 special reloads with my Colt Agent and have put through a hundred or so down range. Not as much fun shooting the smaller revolvers for target work.
I do tumble mine with primers out and then use my cleaning tool when needed to clean out the primer pocket. Generally speaking my brass is pretty clean when reloading. I haven't bought any factory .38 special in a while. Will have to give that a try.
Hope to get out and try the gun out again this weekend and will try some factory loads and will take the colt and see if it will shoot the rounds that are not firing in the Model 13. Next week I get in my extra set of dies to set up for .357 mag so I am looking forward to that.

 

[Skip Sackett]

I had the same problem with a brand new M625JM. Fire some, not all.

Here is what I did to "fix" that:

This was suggested to me by our very own Joni_Lyn, forum member and moderator extraordinare!

It is s spent primer. The strain screw is completely backed out, spent primer installed, cup side to screw, and the screw tightened up again.

This will make the hammer strike harder, along with trigger pull. Takes all of 10 seconds to do. Us a small pistol primer if you can.

One other question, does it fail to fire when double action shooting or single action? There are two sears in a Smith, one for each type of trigger work.

In double action, the hammer does NOT fall as far and can cause this with the harder primers, CCI & Winchester, Wolf. Before I would buy ANY factory ammo, I would find some Federal primers. They are by far the easiest to make go bang, and I am like, totally against having to buy ANY factory ammo, but that is a discussion for another day!

 

[Fkimble]

Another possibility is primer contamination. Be sure you avoid touching the business side of the primer and keep any oils or solvents away from the primers. I have seen an increase in primer failure in the last couple years. What type are you using?

 

[SMSgt]

Yep, something's not right. You've already accounted for misfires than I have since beginning reloading in '75 (a total of one - a dud primer). I don't bother to clean primer pockets any more either. Like mentioned, make sure the primer seat below flush I still run my finger over each one to check) and that you're getting a consistant, solid strike on the primers.

 

[chief38]

While I have not personally experienced this problem with CCI Primers, there are some fellas that report that CCI primers are a little harder to crack than the other brands, requiring slightly more force. Has the gun in question here had a shortened strain screw? If so I would replace it and try it again.

Chief38

 

[arjay]

I have had that problem with cci primers in a tuned 1911.They do seem a bit harder than winchesters.

 

[jimmyj]

Was the Model 13 new or used when you purchased it?
If used, the mainspring tension screw might have been shorten by a previous owner.
I would also replace the mainspring tension screw and firing pin if you have mis-fires with factory ammo.
Determine that the chambers are clean and the cartridges are fully seated.

 

[gwpercle]

I also tumble my brass with fired primers in place, but after depriming, I clean the pockets, with a primer pocket cleaning tool ( Lee or Lyman ) then prime with a Lee hand priming tool.

The cleaning lets the primers seat to the bottom of the pocket and with the hand priming tool you don't risk contamination by picking up each and every primer with your fingers. Also you can feel when the primer hits bottom - seating primers with the press mounted attachment can lead to a slightly crushed or compressed primer ( because its not as sensitive as the hand held tool,) , which also affects it going bang.

Ever since I started doing my priming like this it has eliminated all of the problems I had from improperly seating or contaminating primers

 

[ldhunter1959]

Gun is used so I don't know the history behind it. If there have been any modifications I would not know. About all I have done to the revolver is pull the grips for cleaning and have not taken it down any further. Will have to find some information on how to do the repairs suggested - replace firing pin and mainspring tension screw.
I think probably the two first tests I need to make is running a box of factory loads through it and with the failure to fire rounds run them through my smaller Colt Agent.
I have yet to shoot any .357 mag through the revolver. Would there be any difference in handling of that round over a standard-to-hot load .38 special?

 

[Rule3]

As to the gun firing or not (light strikes) there is no difference between 357 or 38. It will either go bang or not.

TRY some factory rounds first before tinkering.

The mainspring screw is easy as shown by Skip in the pictures. All you need is a small screwdriver and make sure the screw is tight. Do not try and force it and bugger it up

 

[67tempest]

Primer issues

Debris in the flash hole would not keep the primer from firing. Is the primer getting a good solid hit or not? My K22 would not consitantly fire all 6 rounds. Sometimes they would fire on the second go round, sometimes not. I had the revolver looked at by a S&W gunsmith at my local gunshop that was having an open house. He diagnosed it as having to much fore and aft play in the cylinder. The firing pin, when it fell was actually pushing the whole cylinder forward causing the primer not to fire. He stretched the yoke with what looked like a small tubing cutter with the cutting wheels replaced with smooth wheels. He tighten it down on the yoke and spun it around tightening the adjustment each time. After four or five times he was satisfied that he had stretched it out sufficiently and the excessive play was gone so he reassembled the revolver. I have never had a failure to fire since. This revolver was purchased new by my father in the early 50's and has had literally ten's of thosands of rounds thru it over the last 60 or so years so I guess a tune up was to be expected.

 

[txbirdman]

If all else fails try switching to Federal primers. I've found them to be easier to ignite than either Winchester or CCI's.

 

[gregintenn]

I had a similar problem with a model 10. A new hammer spring and strain screw made it good as new.

 

[blujax01]

When have a failure I usually find that I didn't put powder in the cartridge. No one has asked if the OP pulled the bullet.

Just sayin'...

 

[mikelain]

That's what I was going to say. Sometimes with a heavy crimp a non charged case will not even move the bullet, the rest of the time it sticks in the forcing cone/ barrel. My auto disc ( or the reloader) had a hiccup last time and I had two FTF, pulled both bullets no powder, bullet did not move, good luck. I have also seen dirt debries in the frame recess behind the firing pin bushing cause random ftf.

 

[ldhunter1959]

have not pulled the bullets on the most recent FTF, but the previous ones did have powder in them. Seems I would have heard a "whiff" if just the primer had gone off.
Where can one find a good exploded view of my revolver. I found a parts list at S&W, but no exploded view.