Truly a great revolver and I love that these seem impervious to timing issues. All of the Ruger DA revolvers seem to be hell for stout when it comes to timing, this is an area where I believe Ruger just slaughtered both S&W and Colt.
But I must get this off my chest, it's the reason that I opened this discussion. While the trigger and lockwork that is all modular was a fine way to skin that cat, whoever came up with the cylinder and yoke arrangement was a torture artist.
In the last 15 years I have pulled and replaced Ruger cylinders from yokes maybe five times and each and every single time it has been a total nightmare.
Some may say that the answer is to not do it. To that I wish that I could agree, but simply… the cylinder's ability to freely rotate has an extremely large affect on trigger pull or even simply cocking the hammer in single action. So unless you do not and will not EVER care that you DA trigger pull will eventually grow more heavy, you'll have to pull that cylinder eventually.
It's just a horrendous juggling of small pins, rocker arm, spring loaded detente and not a one of them is a smoothly finished part that glides and falls in to place.
If you have never done it… it sucks. If you have done it and you don't think it's awful, maybe you know something that I've simply never figured out.
We naturally compare great guns from different manufacturers. The S&W vs Ruger debate has been done a million times, and I enjoy both in my collection. But it's fact that my S&W cylinder pulls from the yoke and yoke from the frame with ONE small screw. The Ruger DA cylinder removal and reassembly is like trying to build a ship in a bottle. I really loathe it.
It would bother me less if the entire revolver was lousy, but that's 180 degrees from reality, the GP-100 is a fantastic revolver.
But I must get this off my chest, it's the reason that I opened this discussion. While the trigger and lockwork that is all modular was a fine way to skin that cat, whoever came up with the cylinder and yoke arrangement was a torture artist.
In the last 15 years I have pulled and replaced Ruger cylinders from yokes maybe five times and each and every single time it has been a total nightmare.
Some may say that the answer is to not do it. To that I wish that I could agree, but simply… the cylinder's ability to freely rotate has an extremely large affect on trigger pull or even simply cocking the hammer in single action. So unless you do not and will not EVER care that you DA trigger pull will eventually grow more heavy, you'll have to pull that cylinder eventually.
It's just a horrendous juggling of small pins, rocker arm, spring loaded detente and not a one of them is a smoothly finished part that glides and falls in to place.
If you have never done it… it sucks. If you have done it and you don't think it's awful, maybe you know something that I've simply never figured out.
We naturally compare great guns from different manufacturers. The S&W vs Ruger debate has been done a million times, and I enjoy both in my collection. But it's fact that my S&W cylinder pulls from the yoke and yoke from the frame with ONE small screw. The Ruger DA cylinder removal and reassembly is like trying to build a ship in a bottle. I really loathe it.
It would bother me less if the entire revolver was lousy, but that's 180 degrees from reality, the GP-100 is a fantastic revolver.
Also, "You need a flathead screwdriver with a hole drilled in it." 
