RUINED 637 DEEP WYATT USING ULTROSONIC MACHINE HELP!

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marathonrunner

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Admin Edit-
I think the OP realizes his mistake. In Post #13, he admits culpability, so there is no need to pile on and continue beating the man. That is not our style here.

I'd like to leave this thread open because ultrasonic cleaners are becoming more common and I'd like for people to know the inherent risks.

Lee Jarrett
_________



Guys, I used Ultrasonic machine to clean my Smith Wesson 637 Gun Smoke Edition revolver's finish on the aluminum frame. Parts of the finish seems flaking off because of the 30 minute treatment.

The stainless barrel lugs were fine, the stainless barrel was fine, but the aluminum frame definitely got damaged. I am wondering if this will affect the integrity of the metal and will it be safe to use?

I also ran just the slide, the barrel and my guide rod spring of my MP compact 9mm. That came out beautiful, no discoloration. I am at a lost to understand why the aluminum got messed up but the steel parts did not.
 
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What cleaner solution did you use? Most solutions will attack aluminum and also cause oxidation and caution using on aluminum. The finish on aluminum is anodizing and is very thin... Did you shoot so much it could not be cleaned in standard fashion and decided to give it a bath? You may want to post a few pics but I believe buffing all finish off and maybe painting or sending for commercial finish will be the only fix.
 
As above, some cleaners, especially strong soap cleaners like Simply Green will aggressively attack aluminum and aluminum anodizing.
The damage happens faster and worse in an ultrasonic cleaner.

I doubt that S&W will cover this under the warranty, but you can ask them.
Otherwise, having some other finish, like one of the "paint" type finishes is about all that can be done.
 
Too late the gun is ruined. I did the same thing to a carburator. Had to buy another. The solution has creeped into the threaded joint at barrel frame connection still in there doing its thing. The gun is junk. How is a new coating going to fix those threads?
 
Lyman Turbo Sonic

ken158 said:
What cleaner solution did you use? Most solutions will attack aluminum and also cause oxidation and caution using on aluminum. The finish on aluminum is anodizing and is very thin... Did you shoot so much it could not be cleaned in standard fashion and decided to give it a bath? You may want to post a few pics but I believe buffing all finish off and maybe painting or sending for commercial finish will be the only fix.
Click to expand...

Yikes! I used Lyman Turbo Sonic to clean it. Also used it on my metal slide of MP Compact 9mm but it worked great. Why didn't it ruin the finish on the Compact? The gun looks so clean. But didn't realize it attacks aluminum. I called Smith and Wesson and they said it will anodize again but it will end up a different shade of color because it will be newer. He said the gun will be fine functionally, just won't look as new.
 
marathonrunner said:
Yikes! I used Lyman Turbo Sonic to clean it. Also used it on my metal slide of MP Compact 9mm but it worked great. Why didn't it ruin the finish on the Compact? The gun looks so clean. But didn't realize it attacks aluminum. I called Smith and Wesson and they said it will anodize again but it will end up a different shade of color because it will be newer. He said the gun will be fine functionally, just won't look as new.
Click to expand...

Because the slide on your Compact is steel. You need to KNOW what your putting into the cleaner and how it will react. Metal is NOT just metal. Metal can be steel, alloy, ti or something else.

Sorry to be blunt but you need to educate yourself.
 
The instructions from my Turbosonic state:
"When cleaning aluminum, keep the use of the sonics to minimum time needed. The part(s) can be allowed to soak (no sonics) to help in decreasing the time required for sonic cleaning. Aluminum can be damage by excessive sonic energy"
After reading the above, I decided to restrict the use of this device to brass and ferrous metals.
 
Sonic

TAROMAN said:
The instructions from my Turbosonic state:
"When cleaning aluminum, keep the use of the sonics to minimum time needed. The part(s) can be allowed to soak (no sonics) to help in decreasing the time required for sonic cleaning. Aluminum can be damage by excessive sonic energy"
After reading the above, I decided to restrict the use of this device to brass and ferrous metals.
Click to expand...

I am wondering, can sonic also damage steel by excessive exposure? I am also wondering can I sue Lyman to replace my gun? My whole finish is completely peeling off now. I don't think it can be refinished.
 
Zipdog said:
Too late the gun is ruined. I did the same thing to a carburator. Had to buy another. The solution has creeped into the threaded joint at barrel frame connection still in there doing its thing. The gun is junk. How is a new coating going to fix those threads?
Click to expand...

The gun isn't ruined unless it won't perform its intended purpose: Firing SW 38 Spl cartridges. The original finish may be damaged but the gun will function fine.

BTW I have seen the finish on these and most J frames aluminum alloy guns. I have a 638 with same finish. It's like a coating protecting the alloy. I imagine the ultra sonic took that protective coating off...I am sure you can apply a similar finish yourself.
Maybe a ceracoat?
 
opps

mbliss57 said:
The gun isn't ruined unless it won't perform its intended purpose: Firing SW 38 Spl cartridges. The original finish may be damaged but the gun will function fine.

BTW I have seen the finish on these and most J frames aluminum alloy guns. I have a 638 with same finish. It's like a coating protecting the alloy. I imagine the ultra sonic took that protective coating off...I am sure you can apply a similar finish yourself.
Maybe a ceracoat?
Click to expand...

You know, I guess I didn't read the instructions. I thought this solution was a multi purpose cleaner for everything and then the sonic cleaner said it was for guns too. Now I realize I used the product incorrectly rats! But yes the protective coating did come off and you can see it peeling. I will try ceracoat. Thanks for the tip
 
The only 'new-era' aluminum J I had a problem with was the 342Ti. SCSW says the gun has a clear-coat finish. This peeled off when I sprayed the innards with GunScrubber, something I do with all my guns. Even its sister 337 does not have this finish. Never a problem with the finish of my 637s, 642s and 638.
 
Yep; too much cleaning has ruined more guns than NO CLEANING............

Hoppe's cleaner and oil is all anyone ever needs!!!

There is almost never a reason for amateurs to take firearms apart!!

Get away from that wheelbarrow - you don't know nothing about machinery!!!!!!

Self loading .22 rifles sometimes during their lives will need a good internal cleaning - be sure there is no plastic parts and clean them out with disc brake cleaner - blow dry - lightly oil - blow dry........

You ain't a gunsmith so stop acting like one!!!
 
I doubt...

I doubt that the strength of the frame is compromised that greatly but as per a previous comment I think it maybe should be disassembled by a gunsmith and cleaned with a compatible compound especially at the barrel in case the solution is still attacking the aluminum.
 
You might want to check with S&W customer service. They may be able to re-anodize the frame. I'm not sure if it's possible. I bet you're not the first person to have done this.
 
marathonrunner said:
. . . But yes the protective coating did come off and you can see it peeling. I will try ceracoat. Thanks for the tip
Click to expand...
This might turn out to be an opportunity, sir.

If the finish on one of my Airweights were sufficiently damaged, Robar's NP3 coating would be a strong contender for a replacement finish. Here is a link to their website: NP3® Firearm Finish | Robar Guns

And, to save you a visit, here is what they have to say about NP3.

NP3® – THE ADVANTAGES

- Increases reliability
- It requires little to no oil for lubrication, although we recommend using some oil during break in.
- Very accurate and even coatings on all activated surfaces.
- Cleaning is minimal
- Permits firing for longer periods of time between cleaning, as dirt and powder residue has no wet or oily surface to cling to.
- NP3 has a micro hardness of 48-51 Rockwell as plated (nickel matrix).
- NP3® is very corrosion resistant, a 1 mil (.001) coating exceeding a 250 hour salt spray test.
- NP3® has a high lubricity and low friction co-efficient; therefore, the life expectancy of a firearm will be greatly increased due to reduced friction wear.
- The coating is strippable with no effect on the base metal, allowing other coatings to be applied or a new coating of NP3® to be applied, if necessary.
- NP3® plated onto stainless steel guns will prevent galling, a problem common with stainless steel.
- NP3® is a satin gray, non-reflective color ideal for all firearms.
- NP3® can be plated to all internal parts giving a smoothness to the action not found with any other coating.
- In cases where the NP3® has been perforated, the corrosion shows no tendency to spread or migrate under the coating.
- NP3® is guaranteed against corrosion, peeling or flaking for the lifetime of the firearm.

I have seen some of their work and it does look very nice. It might be a little expensive, but they have a great reputation.
 
wow

TucsonMTB said:
This might turn out to be an opportunity, sir.

If the finish on one of my Airweights were sufficiently damaged, Robar's NP3 coating would be a strong contender for a replacement finish. Here is a link to their website: NP3® Firearm Finish | Robar Guns

And, to save you a visit, here is what they have to say about NP3.

NP3® – THE ADVANTAGES

- Increases reliability
- It requires little to no oil for lubrication, although we recommend using some oil during break in.
- Very accurate and even coatings on all activated surfaces.
- Cleaning is minimal
- Permits firing for longer periods of time between cleaning, as dirt and powder residue has no wet or oily surface to cling to.
- NP3 has a micro hardness of 48-51 Rockwell as plated (nickel matrix).
- NP3® is very corrosion resistant, a 1 mil (.001) coating exceeding a 250 hour salt spray test.
- NP3® has a high lubricity and low friction co-efficient; therefore, the life expectancy of a firearm will be greatly increased due to reduced friction wear.
- The coating is strippable with no effect on the base metal, allowing other coatings to be applied or a new coating of NP3® to be applied, if necessary.
- NP3® plated onto stainless steel guns will prevent galling, a problem common with stainless steel.
- NP3® is a satin gray, non-reflective color ideal for all firearms.
- NP3® can be plated to all internal parts giving a smoothness to the action not found with any other coating.
- In cases where the NP3® has been perforated, the corrosion shows no tendency to spread or migrate under the coating.
- NP3® is guaranteed against corrosion, peeling or flaking for the lifetime of the firearm.

I have seen some of their work and it does look very nice. It might be a little expensive, but they have a great reputation.
Click to expand...

This is definitely something I would consider but it is like almost 3/4 the price of a new one. I might as well just buy a new Deep cover
 
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