Rumors about the 686P (7 shot)

[thebusinessend]

I am about to purchase a 686p, but have been seeing some disturbing comments online about the cylinder failing due to shooting many magnum rounds through the P's thinner walls in compared too the 686 (6 shot) model.

Also, I've read someone has peformed a rapid-fire of magnum shells and the firing pin struck the primer on the cartridge slightly to the left and caused the (factory) round to damage the barrel. The article mentioned it might be a timing issue with the gun.

Did anyone experience these events or hear of such mishaps with the 686p?

Should I be save and just get the 686 (6 shot) instead?

 

[18DAI]

Welcome to the forum!

The cylinder on the 686+ is plenty strong. In fact, some gunsmiths have opined that due to the stops being placed between the charge holes, rather than above them, it is actually stronger than the 6-shot cylinder.

I've never read of the failures you mention, and have shot plenty of rounds through my 7-shot L-frames. No worries here.

As to timing problems, there are a few of us who shoot the 7-shot guns quickly, and experienced some timing issues. Not many, but a few. Do a search on "686+", or "7-shot timing". No timing issues I've experienced or read of involve damage to a barrel.

My advice to you is to find a nice 686-4+ or 686-5+ to spend your money on. They are great revolvers, cost less than current production, and if you decide it's not for you, you can get your money out of them rather than listing them here in the classifieds for week after week and continually lowering the price.

Good luck, hope this helps! Regards 18DAI.

 

[rollin_hot]

Links?

I am about to purchase a 686p, but have been seeing some disturbing comments online about the cylinder failing due to shooting many magnum rounds through the P's thinner walls in compared too the 686 (6 shot) model.

Also, I've read someone has peformed a rapid-fire of magnum shells and the firing pin struck the primer on the cartridge slightly to the left and caused the (factory) round to damage the barrel. The article mentioned it might be a timing issue with the gun.

Did anyone experience these events or hear of such mishaps with the 686p?

Should I be save and just get the 686 (6 shot) instead?

I would be interested in seeing links to those comments...thanks.

 

[perpster]

As 18DAI said, there is actually more cylinder metal thickness between the charge holes and the exterior edge of the cylinder on a 7 shot vs a 6 shot, so more strength. Welcome to the Forum.

 

[Rolan_Kraps]

The only thing I'd add is that you can't easily use the 7 shot version in IDPA, so if you want to compete, I'd go with the 6 shot.

 

[38-44HD45]

Aaaaah, the interweb; gotta love it! Now, if I could just get more people to believe the speculation about the "weakness" of cylinders in Smith 7-shooters, maybe I could pick up a few more, cheap! Meanwhile, I'll keep my PC 681+ guns loaded with Remington 125gr. JHPs...

No, really. They're gonna blow, all of 'em!!!

 

[pinduck]

I would appreciate links to those rumors also, i have a 686-4 + that I have fired 100s of rounds thru,its the ccw piece I carry in the winter months and is the one I qualify with.

 

[Bullseye Smith]

I have heard of cylinders blowing up (you put a double charge in you take a chance ) and the first had a few with timing problems. Most of these is screw-ups that someone done on thier own, So its not nice to screw with father Smith&Wesson .