Run your 3rd gen with grease or oil?

[SW CQB 45]

Yrs ago, my SW CQB was a single shot using tetra grease on the rails and barrel.

Temp was in the 20s and it was night shoot and rather dark skies.

I was shootin PMC ball which was known for being dirty.

Couple of things to note....the tetra grease was old (seemed a lil clumpy...thought it was just cold), very cold temp for south TX, tighter tolerences of CQB and shooting dirty ammo.

The next day...I cleaned my CQB and the grease was very black.

I oiled with breakfree and shot the next day....it rran fine.

I use whatever oil I have. No rem oil...has viscosity of water and designed for slow moving parts.

 

[j38]

I've used Corrosion-X the last couple of years. It's a fairly heavy oil, and I've seen no issues develop since using it.

Jerry

 

[Forsmithers]

Breakfree CLP for me. I've been using it on my pistols since 1991 with no issues or problems.

 

[paragon1]

I use TW-25B on the rails and barrel, and any area I can see the black worn off. I use oil down in the frame internals.

 

[ET.]

After I clean my semi-autos. I spray them all over with RemOil and wipe down excess, then I put Shooter's Choice grease on the rails. Seems to be working fine for me.

This is the precise regimen & same products I use on my semi's as well. Great minds think alike.

 

[novalty]

This is the precise regimen & same products I use on my semi's as well. Great minds think alike.

Well I am starting to question my choice of grease for my S&W 1911. My last range session it started feeling like the rail was dry after about 100 rounds. I was shooting some reloads with Unique powder and it seemed pretty sooty. NoW while the 1911 didn't malfunction in anyway, I am considering another grease for the rails of the 1911. The Shooter's Choice still has worked well for my 5906 & 2206. Looking at some Brian Enos Slide Glide Lite.

The Rem Oil is mostly used for just a film coating for the frame & slide.

 

[Fastbolt]

Well I am starting to question my choice of grease for my S&W 1911. My last range session it started feeling like the rail was dry after about 100 rounds. I was shooting some reloads with Unique powder and it seemed pretty sooty. NoW while the 1911 didn't malfunction in anyway, I am considering another grease for the rails of the 1911. The Shooter's Choice still has worked well for my 5906 & 2206. Looking at some Brian Enos Slide Glide Lite.

The Rem Oil is mostly used for just a film coating for the frame & slide.

I've tried the SC all-weather grease. Personally, I didn't care for how hard it was for some of our people to apply to everywhere it needed to go and how thick it remained. It's good that it doesn't rum or fly off the gun, but neither does it seem to spread with use.

While I'm sure there are some great new synthetic grease products from which to choose, I've remained pretty much with the Wilson Ultima grease and Mil-Comm's TW25B. Both are easy to apply and spread to all spots where I want it to be present, and yet they seem to remain there under use pretty well.

For heavy shooting days with my 1911's I often use a slurry of one of the greases and some FP10 or Militec-1. It's a bit messier as far as what can ooze out the back of the rails under extended shooting, but the guns seem able to easily run for 2-3 range sessions of a few hundred rounds each when lubed that way between cleanings.

FWIW, when the Mil-Comm company connected me to their "chemist" one time when I had some questions, he was quite specific about a couple of things. First, he said for best results the metal ought to be stripped of the solvent/CLP used for cleaning before application of the grease. That's done by using 91-92% alcohol to wipe the residue from the metal. Second, he said that if it was applied so thickly that the white color remained after spreading it around, that too much had been used. He said the white color ought to disappear when the product was spread out (and yet still appear present/shiny).

 

[novalty]

I've tried the SC all-weather grease. Personally, I didn't care for how hard it was for some of our people to apply to everywhere it needed to go and how thick it remained. It's good that it doesn't rum or fly off the gun, but neither does it seem to spread with use.

While I'm sure there are some great new synthetic grease products from which to choose, I've remained pretty much with the Wilson Ultima grease and Mil-Comm's TW25B. Both are easy to apply and spread to all spots where I want it to be present, and yet they seem to remain there under use pretty well.

For heavy shooting days with my 1911's I often use a slurry of one of the greases and some FP10 or Militec-1. It's a bit messier as far as what can ooze out the back of the rails under extended shooting, but the guns seem able to easily run for 2-3 range sessions of a few hundred rounds each when lubed that way between cleanings.

FWIW, when the Mil-Comm company connected me to their "chemist" one time when I had some questions, he was quite specific about a couple of things. First, he said for best results the metal ought to be stripped of the solvent/CLP used for cleaning before application of the grease. That's done by using 91-92% alcohol to wipe the residue from the metal. Second, he said that if it was applied so thickly that the white color remained after spreading it around, that too much had been used. He said the white color ought to disappear when the product was spread out (and yet still appear present/shiny).

As always Fastbolt, thanks for the very informative posting. I have to admit the SC grease tube is miserable to work with--as it either doesn't want to come out, or comes out too fast. The use of alcohol on the rails prior to grease application is a great idea, will add that to my current regimen. Right now I think I am going to try Slide Glide by Brian Enos.

 

[azranger]

I like Slide-Glide on the rails, oil every place else.

 

[Fastbolt]

As always Fastbolt, thanks for the very informative posting. I have to admit the SC grease tube is miserable to work with--as it either doesn't want to come out, or comes out too fast. The use of alcohol on the rails prior to grease application is a great idea, will add that to my current regimen. Right now I think I am going to try Slide Glide by Brian Enos.

While I haven't tried Slide-Glide, I've heard good things about and can't imagine he'd connect his name to a product that wasn't decent.

The chemist said the reason for the 91-92% alcohol was to strip the metal surface so their product could better get into the surface and remain there. That's probably why Sig was (is?) using the product and used to include a sample of it with their guns. The Sig armorer instructor said something to the effect that the TW25B seemed to better prevent moisture from getting to the metal and helped prevent oxidation cells from forming. It can be messy, though, especially if too much is used.

 

[VTHokiesDuckHunter]

I just posted this elsewhere-

I usually use Breakfree CLP or another cleaner/lube on my 3rd gens, then wipe off as much as possible. (which sometimes seems almost impossible with Breakfree- even if I only put a very small amount on the gun it seems to multiply and ooze out of the pores of the metal............)

Then I use Birchwood Casey +P Stainless Steel Lube on the rails, and judiciously on a few other parts.

I really like using the +P Stainless Lube on these guns

 

[Hansli]

Just because it hasn't been mentioned, Mobil 1 synthetic grease for slides and shotgun hinge pins, Mobil 1 5 weight for everything else. Sparingly of course. Both are inexpensive and take heat well. I have a qt. of oil and a can of the grease. I'll never have to buy either ever again.

 

[wscrst]

Hoppe's grease

After reading this thread, I picked up the available grease at the local shop...Hoppe's grease. I have now read the label and it states that it is designed to protect idle firearms. Am I correct that I shouldn't be lubing my 3913 rails with this stuff?

 

[S&W4053]

The rails get tw25 and the rest get Breakfree.

 

[dandor]

My cleaning and lube process - Disassemble - spray down parts with WD-40 and let soak for about 30 minutes - brush/wipe parts until clean and wipe off as much of the WD as possible - Clean bore with Hoppes No. 9 bore cleaner and lube with Rem Oil - Spray down parts with Rem Oil wipe down leaving a light coat - lube rails and hammer/trigger/sear contact points with Aeroshell 33MS (apply with a small paint brush). The Aeroshell 33MS I have left over from several AR builds (Used on the upper and barrel nut threads)