RX Shooting glasses?

[roo_ster]

Finally had to get far-sighted correction to accompany my near-sightedness and astigmatism. Front sight is still OK at arm's length with single-vision specs, but reading seemed to be going to arm's length, too.

The lesson I learned is that if you go progressive lenses, it matters if you go cheap/old-tech or expensive/new-tech. In addition to my everyday new-tech progressive lens glasses, I got a set of Rx sunglasses. With the tint, the new-tech progressive lenses were not an option, so they have the older tech progressive lenses with my Rx.

I hunt, shoot clays, IDPA, rifle, all of that. For any of those that require off-centerline sight, the old tech prog lenses don't work as well. The new-tech lenses have more usable area and allow me to catch moving or peripheral targets more quickly.

Good luck.

 

[URIT]

I bought some different color lens safety glasses that fit over prescription glasses to save $$$. This is the cheap way to go when you aren't required to wear safety lenses 24/7.

Today, I wear trifocals with the bottom for reading, the midrange focal point at arm's length for shooting and computer work, and the top (majority) for distance.

 

[ISCS Yoda]

I have had glasses made specifically for shooting so they had a tint to them but, more importantly, since I was Cowboy Action ShootingTM these were protective glasses with side shields. CAS contests often include little pieces of lead flying back at the shooters.

Other than that, today's "eyeglasses" are really almost always "eyepolymers" and such lenses are usually impact resistant polycarbonate - that's what you want in any kind of modern eyewear but especially for shooting. The cool thing is that your normal, daily eyeglasses are perfectly capable of being used as your protective lenses at the range or in the field.

Instead of tinting glasses into a "color" I get my daily eyewear treated to be what they call "Transition" lenses - they get darker in sunlight and even get darker inside a car but not as dark as in direct sunlight - the latest iteration works great that way.

My point is that for my purposes at an indoor or outdoor range my normal prescription works just fine - I use a 3-way progressive corrective lens with Transition and I have no complaints. YMMV

 

[PHS327]

I use to have tri-focals and got some that were rated for shooting from my optometrist. Strangely enough, the ones rated for shooting cost less than the ones I had been getting. Then I got cataract surgery and only needed 1.5x reading glasses so I got some 1.5x shooting glasses. Found out I only needed 1x for shooting. You might have to experiment a little to find out what works for you.

 

[YeshuaIsa53]

I'm farsighted with plus lenses. Had a friend help me zero the focus in on the front sight with single vision clear lenses. It's just a matter of changing the spherical part of the RX. I take them off when bifocals are needed. Good luck the way you choose to go. That front sight means the world to me.

 

[Pizza Bob]

The official glasses of the USPSA...

Hunters HD Gold - Safety Protective Eyewear, Eyewear, Sunglasses

Transition lenses that go from a light amber to a dark brown. They do progressive lenses. Great company to work with - can't say enough good about them. Mail-order glasses aren't usually my thing, but this company is truly the exception.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

 

[roo_ster]

I have had glasses made specifically for shooting so they had a tint to them but, more importantly, since I was Cowboy Action ShootingTM these were protective glasses with side shields. CAS contests often include little pieces of lead flying back at the shooters.

Good idea, that.

Other than that, today's "eyeglasses" are really almost always "eyepolymers" and such lenses are usually impact resistant polycarbonate - that's what you want in any kind of modern eyewear but especially for shooting. The cool thing is that your normal, daily eyeglasses are perfectly capable of being used as your protective lenses at the range or in the field.

Indeed, some of the new polymer lens materials are crazy strong, relative to olden days.

Here's the thing, though: The lenses must be mounted securely in sturdy frames to be worth a darn as eyepro.

For example, my primary everyday wear, high-$$$ progressive lenses are tough as nails. But the frames do not hold the lenses securely enough to be eyepro. I was showering in the gym the other day. My vision is such that it is advisable I wear my Rx to/from the shower, where I can also wash the glasses thoroughly. I drop the glasses on the tile and the two lenses sling off like hockey pucks on ice. I gather them up, re-install them, clean, and examine them. Not a scratch or nick on them. The super lightweight & tough material is downright amazing. But obviously not suitable as eyepro in my frames.

Instead of tinting glasses into a "color" I get my daily eyewear treated to be what they call "Transition" lenses - they get darker in sunlight and even get darker inside a car but not as dark as in direct sunlight - the latest iteration works great that way.

My point is that for my purposes at an indoor or outdoor range my normal prescription works just fine - I use a 3-way progressive corrective lens with Transition and I have no complaints. YMMV

I have had three pairs of glasses with Transition/whatever brand lenses. The last with the sensitive/quick-acting characteristic.

I eventually decided to run with clear for my everyday lenses and polarized for driving, as the polarized lenses are so superor to transitions (which are not polarized, just tinted).

================

I likely will buy shooting-particular glasses, soon. Very likely old-school franklin/executive bifocals, with a full-width discrete reading lens across the bottom and distance-vision on the top. In sturdy frames. Target acquisition with progressives, even the top-end progressives, just gives up too much to single-vision lenses.

Hope that helps shooters with aging eyballs.

 

[Marylander]

Try this on for size.
hold a measuring tape in your shooting hand.
use your other hand to place the end of the tape at the cheek bone of you shooting eye, or if you shoot with both eyes open at your dominate eye
while holding the end of the tape at the cheek bone, extend your shooting hand forward, index finger extended, until you are at your normal extension and your normal stance.
move your thumb to hold the tape against the housing.
note the length of the extension+ the length of your index finger.
Tell your eye glass maker you want the "FOCAL POINT OF PRECEPTION"
to be xx inches.
Kind of similiar as asking for glasses to be cut for Computer Display reading. and it's cheaper then fuul blown eye exam. And as stated make sure you mention safety glasses and frames I believe all safety glasses must be stamped or engraved on the leases with the safety glass codes.
YMMV

 

[rct269]

Given the need to see your sights AND your target AND cope with any vision deficiencies, you clearly need the services of a PROFESSIONAL--------and an INTERESTED professional--------with a whole lot of patience. I was never able to put that combination together to my satisfaction---but then I got lucky.

One day my eye exam/vision correction prescription "eye doctor" said, "Do you want to get your cataracts taken care of so you can see again?" I thought I could see okay, but I was wrong. Now I can see okay, AND I can see my sights AND my target------never mind any glasses.

Now I understand basically none of this, and that's fine by me. It's not my job to understand it---simply to enjoy it.

Ralph Tremaine

 

[WR Moore]

Are the glasses you're referring to have full lens correction, or just the bi-focal smaller lens? I did a search for prescription safety glasses, but just came up with bi-focal ones. Can you post a link? Thanks.

OK, if you're looking at Rx safety glasses, what you probably want is one of the occupational lens grinds. Which you probably won't find online. There's what they call the "mechanics grind" that places a bifocal Rx at both top and bottom of the lens. The middle is the distance RX. That's so the mechanic can see properly both at the bench and while looking up while under a car on a lift.

If you're a trifocal person, the middle range Rx goes up top, the middle is distance and the close up Rx is at the bottom.

I'e read about having the master eye corrected to the sights, the "other" eye standard. Never tried it. While working, I had to be able to shoot with either hand/eye and that wouldn't work for me. Been using the system above for.....a long time.

BTW, if your doc is gun shy, a new pencil held out in your extended hand can double as gun sight.

 

[challer61]

"I eventually decided to run with clear for my everyday lenses and polarized for driving, as the polarized lenses are so superior to transitions (which are not polarized, just tinted)."

They now make excellent specialty lens for driving, and in particular, night driving. I've got the Hoyas, tried the Zeiss. After a lot of research and talking to doctors, found polarizing is not that effective for glare but these night lens are. Yellow lens also not so effective for night driving. I bought two pair of the Hoyas. For safety glasses get ANSI rated with side shields. For shooting, the DECOT is great - BUT you make need to get your local shop to measure the pupillary distance. It's tough to measure for glasses and not often on the prescription.

 

[roo_ster]

"I eventually decided to run with clear for my everyday lenses and polarized for driving, as the polarized lenses are so superior to transitions (which are not polarized, just tinted)."

They now make excellent specialty lens for driving, and in particular, night driving. I've got the Hoyas, tried the Zeiss. After a lot of research and talking to doctors, found polarizing is not that effective for glare but these night lens are. Yellow lens also not so effective for night driving. I bought two pair of the Hoyas. For safety glasses get ANSI rated with side shields. For shooting, the DECOT is great - BUT you make need to get your local shop to measure the pupillary distance. It's tough to measure for glasses and not often on the prescription.

Thanks for the heads-up. Will check them out.

OK, if you're looking at Rx safety glasses, what you probably want is one of the occupational lens grinds. Which you probably won't find online. There's what they call the "mechanics grind" that places a bifocal Rx at both top and bottom of the lens. The middle is the distance RX. That's so the mechanic can see properly both at the bench and while looking up while under a car on a lift.

If you're a trifocal person, the middle range Rx goes up top, the middle is distance and the close up Rx is at the bottom.

I'e read about having the master eye corrected to the sights, the "other" eye standard. Never tried it. While working, I had to be able to shoot with either hand/eye and that wouldn't work for me. Been using the system above for.....a long time.

BTW, if your doc is gun shy, a new pencil held out in your extended hand can double as gun sight.

WR Moore:

I apologize in advance for peppering you with questions. Trying to figure out a good auto mechanic (up-looking up close) solution and an iron sight solution for pistols & rifles.

[FTR: I am a recent trifocal convert (over progressive). Loving them for everyday stuff. Really love the increased field of regard. Had a rather nasty incident with my progressives, so decided to try trifocals.]

WR Moore wrote:
"Been using the system above for.....a long time"

Could you clarify? The trifocal with middle/intermediate up top, distance in the middle, and close-up at the bottom?

Do you use that for shooting sports or auto mechanic work or...what?

Went pistol shooting the other day wearing my trifocals the and instead of going heads-down/chin on chest, I had to crane my neck back to get a sharp front sight post.

I doubt this will matter for wingshooting, as target focus is the key, there.

My optician is not gun shy and is used to tough cases.