S&W 617 Forcing Cones

8shot

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Just obtained a Brownells 11 Degree 22 Cal forcing cone gauge and dropped it in my 617 revolvers.

In the 6" the gauge is slightly below the second step. On the 4" the gauge first step is level with the barrel.

Have any experience with 617 forcing cones as they relate to 50 yard accuracy? Opinions on these.
 

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On any forcing cone, too small is worse than too big. Too small shaves off parts of the bullet as it comes out of the cylinder, deforming the bullet and causing leading with lead bullets, or shaving off the copper on jacketed bullets. If the chamber is not closely aligned to the barrel bore, the problem is worse. Too small and/or poor alignment will mean leading, damaged bullets and large groups. A barrel constriction just ahead of the f/c will do the same. Some guns have all these problems together.

A larger forcing cone eliminates these problems if it's done correctly. The f/c needs to be cut concentric to the bore, and have a reasonably smooth finish.

A too large mouth isn't a problem, in and of itself, but it can mean that the f/c is too long, possibly allowing the bullet to become unstable if the ends are unsupported going from cylinder throat to rifling.

Ideally, you want the forcing cone as short as possible, while still having a large enough opening that the bullet never touches an edge of the hole. Like most things in life, there is a compromise between largeness of hole and shortness of taper. The gage helps you find a happy middle ground. I tend to lean toward the upper end of the gage.

All calibers work the same in this regard.
 
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My friend had a model 17 that threw lead all over the back of the barrel, above the barrel between the topstrap was sold lead. I cleaned it all up and ordered the gage and the 11 degree cutter. The forcing cone really did not exist, the gage barely inserted. I opened the barrel to the minimum, the bottom cut on the gage. No lead, no more!! Happy friend!
 
My friend had a model 17 that threw lead all over the back of the barrel, above the barrel between the topstrap was sold lead. I cleaned it all up and ordered the gage and the 11 degree cutter. The forcing cone really did not exist, the gage barely inserted. I opened the barrel to the minimum, the bottom cut on the gage. No lead, no more!! Happy friend!


Thanks that's the same experience I have with the 38/357 and 9mm revolver forcing cones. Brownells has the 22 chamfering cutter but not the pilot shaft. If I knew cutter thread might be able to use a cleaning rod and make a pilot bearing.
 
The 22 cutter is too small. You need the 11 degree 9mm - 45 cutter. You also need a 1/4" rod threaded to #10-32 on one end and a pilot bushing of .343 OD and 1/4" ID, and a 1/2" OD down to 1/4" OD cone for the muzzle with 1/4" ID. And a T handle to turn it all with.
 
3/16 in /0.187 is essentially #10. You also need at least 1 pilot bushing, I try to use 2 plus the muzzle cone. One bushing needs to be just ahead of the forcing cone.

Note: Brownells is out of stock on the .22-.32 kits and parts-except for the reamer. The OD on the rods for that kit are: "Includes: (3) Pilot/Shafts (.211", .213", .215" diameter, 12" long) to hold and center cutters in .22 bores". Apparently, they don't use alignment bushings for the .22 caliber. But, that gives you some specs to work with to make/find your own rods. Checking metric sizes for round stock, 5 mm is too small at 0.196 (but could be made to work), 6 mm slightly too large at 0.236 in.

The 2 times I did .22 revolver barrels, I cut the cone on a lathe.
 
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I had an mod 18 years ago with some of these problems with a blue box early gun. I called S&W to ask why they did not catch these in quality control. they blamed the buyer demand for why there was not time. I got rid of it quick.
 
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