S&W 625 JM newbie advice

[butaking]

Need some advice....
I am getting a new 625JM in a week and want to make sure that it functions without a hitch. I know I am putting the horse before the carriage here, since I don't have the gun in hand, but want to be prepared. I have experienced a few light primer strikes on my bro-in-laws JM with my reloads (200gn copper plated on top of 4.1 gn of bullseye with win LPP).
So here is a chance to make sure a newbie like me doesn't go down the wrong path with a little help from his friends.
Thanks in advance...

 

[TSQUARED]

Use Federal LP primers - they have the softest primer cups and are the easiest to ignite with lightened DA triggers.

 

[TAROMAN]

What TSQUARED said, squared!

 

[butaking]

Using the Federal primers were my first choice before attempting to do any swapping of parts (springs, screws and firing pin). Also plan on breaking in with a couple of hundred rounds and dry firing it to death. I just want to use the same ammo as I do in my 1911s. I did buy the houge grips and the fiber optic front sight, moon clips, tool and holster. thanks for any further heads up....

 

[TSQUARED]

I am not a fan of dry firing. If you want less expensive trigger time get a S&W 617 and shoot 22's.

 

[Dale53]

I have a 4" JM Special (625-8) and a 5" 625-6 Model of 1989. Both of them were completely reliable right out of the box. In fact, I replaced the springs (rebound and main spring) with a matched set from Jerry Miculek.

However, I set them for 9.0 lbs dbl action and 3.0 single action for reliable service with all major brands of primers (JM suggests 7.0 dbl action and restrict yourself to Federal primers).

While I obviously appreciate a lighter action than typical, I demand absolute reliability as I may use my revolvers in the field. My set up gives me this...

By the way, my 625's are my most used revolvers in the bunch.

FWIW
Dale53

 

[kilroy2721]

What do you plan on doing with your new 625? If you are going to get involved with serious competition shooting then you will want to get a good trigger job and more done by a reliable revolver smith.

 

[TAROMAN]

you will want to get a good trigger job and more done by a reliable revolver smith.

Those magic words RELIABLE + REVOLVER + SMITH wish I could find one in my neck of the woods.

 

[scooter123]

S&W has been increasing the length of the firing pins recently. I have a 2008 620 that shipped with a firing pin that measured 0.482 inch in overall length, a 2009 610-3 that measured at 0.479 inch and my 625 JM that I purchased in late August had a firing pin that measured at 0.492 inch. While my smpling is admittedly small, there is a distinct trend to longer firing pins and the same has been reported by others.

I don't think you'll have an issue with misfires as long as you keep the mainspring at near or full factory power. I can't tell you that it's a certainty because I did an action job and tuned the DA trigger to 8 lbs. on my 625 before I fired the first round with it. As part of that process I also replaced the firing pin with a longer one. I also pulled the trigger and used a Dremel to grind off about 70% of the serrations because out of the box the trigger serrations are sharp enough to draw blood. BTW, if for no other reason I expect that those serrations WILL drive you do have it worked on.

Now, if you want to lighten the trigger there are 3 stages of parts available.

Stage One is a 0.495 inch firing pin from Apex Tactical with a lighter firing pin rebound spring.

Stage two is a 0.500 XP firing pin kit from Apex Tactical, IIRC this also comes with a lighter firing pin rebound spring.

Stage three comes with a caution based on my own experience. Cylinder & Slide has a 0.510 inch firing pin that also features an extended travel capability. The caution is that this firing pin MUST NOT be installed in a revolver with a DA trigger pull of more than 8.5 lbs. I've had this firing pin installed in my 610-3 for a bit more than a year with the DA trigger set to 9 lbs. even and two weeks ago I had the firing pin stick in the primer when shooting 40 caliber WWB. It didn't pierce the primer but I did have to wiggle the cylinder back and forth a bit to get it to pop free. Basically, if you don't lighten the trigger, this particular firing pin is too much ofa good thing. Good news is that it does work well with an 8 lbs. trigger, on my 625 ignition reliability is 100% with or without using moon clips with every brand of ammo I've been able to find. BTW, that's Federal, Winchester, Speer, and Remington. If I wanted to limit my shooting to using only Federal ammo in moon clips I could probably take the trigger down to 7 lbs. However since I like the Speer Gold Dots as a House load I'm not going to do that.

Now one other note. If you are going to have it tuned installing a 14 lbs. rebound spring will result in a 3 lbs. SA trigger and still provide good trigger return.

Now a final note pertaining to cocked or over thightened barrels. As delivered mine was over rotated by 3 degrees. After pulling the barrel and crowning it I then re-installed it perfectly aligned with the frame. Before re-setting the barrel I had to run the rear sight nearly full left to zero it at 50 feet. After re-setting the barrel I now have to run the rear sight nearly full right to zero it at 50 feet. My conclusion, the ideal amount of over rotation of the barrel on my 625 would be 1 1/2 degrees. What I am telling you is that if the barrel is just slightly over rotated you REALLY want to try doing some shooting from a rest before you decide it's wrong.

 

[BlueOvalBandit]

What are you reloading on? If it's a progressive it may not be seating the primers deep enough, which is a problem I occasionally run into. Hand priming I can run 7.5# DA using Winchester LP, using the progressive federals may even light strike if I'm not careful to fully seat below flush. All the factory ammo goes bang first strike.

 

[DanWales]

625

Scooter pretty much hit the nail on the head with what I have found as well. I have not pulled my barrel thank god. Bbuuuuut when I first got the pistol it shot high right and I mean high right. Sent it back to SW. Very prompt service they sent it back it still shot so high I had to bottom out the rear sight....... it shot close but it was still not right. So I bought a .300 SDM gold front sight and changed the rear blade to .160 FINALLY all is well now with that. The barrel is slightly canted I bet it's very close to what Scooter says his should be it's not off much . The pistol shots good now so I'm not about to mess with that.

The grooved trigger will remove DNA samples. Like Scooter I have removed almost all of the grooves.

I haven't tried any different firing pins I did put a 14 lb rebound spring in. I think (lost track) I still have the factory main spring in there. I have smoothed the action A BUNCH and the DA trigger pull is a steady 9.25. I tried backing off the tension screw some but I shoot crappy ammo and I was getting light strikes so I left it all the way in. I do reload but what the hey I shoot it pretty well DA so I'm going to leave well enough alone.

One if my greatest disappointments with this pistol was the amount of machining edges left on it. I have spent an honest no bull three-four plus hours deburring the whole pistol.

One good thing is you get to know your pistol. LOL

Great info Scooter put up here I'm going to check some of this out.

It is a GREAT shooting pistol you will enjoy it a BUNCH. It took a lot of work and tinkering to get it right but most guns are like that very few are terrific right out of the box.

However I do have a remarkable new .22 Browning Buckmark that is an absolute tack driver right out of the box with a 3.25 trigger what a sweet little pistol.

Dan

 

[butaking]

I think I found the right place...

I am relieved by the support that I am getting. Thank you, thank you very much for your input.
At the moment, I am shooting entry level limited uspsa with my 1911. I want to start training myself with the 625 to do the same.
I am using a progressive press and have switched over to the federal 150 LPP. they are seated apprx .010 under flush. I plan on testing the pistol next weekend to see where I need to make modifications. I would like to get the trigger pull down to a manageable weight, but an action job will definitely be in the works. I shot my stock 1911 for about 6 months before I finally had a trigger job done.
thanks again and please continue with the inputs.
johnny

 

[butaking]

deburring

I just read the post by Dan...
I have no problem tearing down my firearms. In fact I quite enjoy it (until I lose a spring or screw). So do you recommend deburring the rough edges? How about the hammer and trigger? Did S&W get away from the chrome plated parts? What do you use? India stone, diamond files? If I wanted to get my trigger pull down to say 8-9#s what would I have to do?
johnny

 

[Stainz]

For a great 'trigger job', consider S&W. Their 'Revolver Master Trigger' job was <$170 max, including overnite s/h both ways - call S&W for more info. Of course, they know what to do - and, if they need parts... it's in warranty - and 'home' - they'll have the parts.

My best suggestion is, as the LA 'gator guy would say, 'Choot 'em!'. Shoot your new 625JM. When you clean it, clean under the extractor star - pay attention to the rod/star juncture, too. Make sure the strain screw is tight. The 625JM is a delight to own - a pleasure to shoot. Mine has lower effort Wolff springs, marrying it to Fed primers. I even used new Starline brass to load my homebrews. My 625JM is an early one - bought 2/05 - and I did have ftf problems initially. They were traced to a ground strain screw intruding into the 'tunnel' of the Wolff 'Power Rib', lessening the pre-load and resultant hammer strike. A call to S&W yielded a standard screw, which 'fixed' the problem, still at a lighter DA pull. I do have odd ftf's, one or two every couple of moonclips, with the UMC 250 pack ball ammo. It's now reserved for my Governor. My 625JM is 100% reliable with my Fed primers and Starline brass - and loads into moonclips easily, too.

You'll need moonclips - Ranch Products blued steel, @100/$35 delivered, is my choice. I also use a Brownell's nutdriver-style demooner, ~$15-$18, but that's a personal choice. One of the great attributes of a .45 ACP revolver is that it can take bullets that would misfeed in the typical 1911, like my usual .45 Colt lead - a 255gr LSWC. So, some 'revolver only' ammo may be in order. When I had my original 4" 625-8, bought 9/02, I learned that a revolver deserves it's own clean brass, not scarred range sweepings. My Marlin Camp .45 wasn't proud - it would feed anything - and launch it's empties into another time zone.

If you want, a 'Classic/DX'-type .250" HiViz sight will fit, without tools, in that spring-loaded front sight base. It helps my 'mature' eyes - and it is the same size as my 627 Pro takes. Fun revolver (Yeah, so is the 627 Pro!). Keeper!!

Stainz

 

[scooter123]

About myself. I'm a Design Engineer by trade who started out as a Machinist, a rarity today for Mechanical Engineers, which IMO is a failure of our educational system today. I'm also a life long tinkerer who's built engines and restored motorcycles. So, I'm just a bit of a tool junkie with just about anything needed for small jobs. I'm also a bit of a cheapskate so I'll take approaches that use what I have rather than purchasing something I don't think I need.

To lighten my mainsprings I've been using hand made shims that fit under the strain screw. With a set of diamond burrs and a Dremel it's not very difficult to do. Clamp some shim stock between some hard maple or oak, drill a series of 0.147 diameter holes and you have your starting point. Then cut out squares centered on the holes and shape them to a 0.218 OD and you have a shim that will fit under the head of the strain screw. BTW, I've been contemplating making up a hammer type progressive hole punch die to knock out these shims in volume to sell here but don't know if it would be worth the effort.

Based on my experience in tuning my own revolvers shimming the strain screw out by 0.030 inch will reduce the DA trigger pull to 8 lbs. give or take 2 ounces. Use 0.020 inch of shim and you'll have a DA trigger in the 9 lbs. range.

Those who don't want to use shims could achieve the same effect by grinding the strain screw shorter by the same amount, however strain screws will shorten with wear so I'd suggest keeping a spare or two on hand.

As for locktiting the strain screw in position, I'm a bit conservative in something like this and don't think that locktite will prove secure enough. Meaning, I think it will eventually shoot loose.

Now for the rebound slide. I've found a 14 lbs. rebound spring to produce the single action trigger weight I'm comfortable shooting with, which is 3 lbs.

As for firing pins, that was covered previously. Take note of the warning about the C&S firing pin, I wasn't kidding, this particular firing pin should not be used unless you reduce the DA trigger pull to 8.5 lbs. or less, by design it features a full 1/16 inch MORE travel than the factory firing pin and it can stick in a primer if the mainspring tension is set too heavy.

 

[butaking]

Well fellas the wait is almost over. And I am not talking about Christmas. This Saturday I pick up the 625JM (Jerry). I will take all the advice and info I have received and proceed to the range. I will have an update post with the results. Thanks for all that contributed.

 

[kennyb]

my 625 jm is a 5.5" from the performance center and right out of the box it shoots great...i have had it about 3 years and not one misfire...good luck,you will love it!