My S&W 625 is not firing reliably on double action. My gunsmith replaced the firing pin with a new one. Before it wasn't firing at all in double action. Now it fires part of the time in double action. It goes off every time in single action. The spring tension screw is all the way down to give maximum tension on the hammer.
S&W 625 not firing reliably on double action
- Thread starter Korum
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
jimbo728
Member
Sounds like it`s time for a new mainspring. I shoot, (or used to) shoot double action exclusively and when this problem surfaced, replacing the mainspring solved my trouble. It` a simple DYS swap.
Welcome to the forum.
Jim
Welcome to the forum.
Jim
Welcome to the Forum.
Did you buy this revolver used? I agree, replace the mainspring.
Did you buy this revolver used? I agree, replace the mainspring.
If you bought the gun used a previous owner may have shortened the strain screw. Try a spent primer with the anvil removed under the strain screw.
Neversink n Klapperthal
Member
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2019
- Messages
- 772
- Reaction score
- 1,125
thats a good idea
SuperMan
Member
Yes, welcome aboard....
Questions:
This is a .45 ACP....?
Are you using moon clips? Have you miked them to see how thick they are?
Have you checked the headspace with the gun loaded?
Have you checked endshake?
When the gun misfires, have you checked the primer to see what it looks like and how deep the light strike is?
Have you tied any .45 Auto Rim ammo or reloads if you reload?
Is this happening with factory ammo, handloads or both?
Unless the mainspring is out of spec it is going to be a headspace problem. Put rounds into the gun, close the cylinder and measure the headspace gap between the recoil shield (breechface) and the casehead and make sure it is within spec. A 625 should run .45 ACP ammo with no clips if the headspace is correct. If it will not then it needs a trip back to The Mothership for correction if your local smith doesn't have the expertise to correct it...
Bob
Questions:
This is a .45 ACP....?
Are you using moon clips? Have you miked them to see how thick they are?
Have you checked the headspace with the gun loaded?
Have you checked endshake?
When the gun misfires, have you checked the primer to see what it looks like and how deep the light strike is?
Have you tied any .45 Auto Rim ammo or reloads if you reload?
Is this happening with factory ammo, handloads or both?
Unless the mainspring is out of spec it is going to be a headspace problem. Put rounds into the gun, close the cylinder and measure the headspace gap between the recoil shield (breechface) and the casehead and make sure it is within spec. A 625 should run .45 ACP ammo with no clips if the headspace is correct. If it will not then it needs a trip back to The Mothership for correction if your local smith doesn't have the expertise to correct it...
Bob
StrawHat
Member
Not all of the 625s were chambered to allow "loose" loading without clips. Try using moon clips or Auto Rim brass.
Kevin
Kevin
SuperMan
Member
Do you know which ones were not so chambered?
I've had both 25 and 625 and everyone will headspace without clips. The only 45 ACP revolver that I knew of that will not were some of the original Colt new service.
I've had both 25 and 625 and everyone will headspace without clips. The only 45 ACP revolver that I knew of that will not were some of the original Colt new service.
As above BUT..."Put rounds into the gun, close the cylinder and measure the headspace gap between the recoil shield (breechface) and the casehead and make sure it is within spec" DO NOT USE LIVE AMMO, SNAP CAP OR NEW BRASS WITHOUT PRIMER. As a RN I get tired treating unloaded gun shot Pts in the Emergency Room.
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Messages
- 19,839
- Reaction score
- 31,777
Could be a few issues.
* loosened mainspring strain screw (or cut too short) or bad or lightened spring.
* timing could be off and FP might not be aligned properly.
* cylinder stop could not be holding cylinder properly in place
* cylinder has too much front to back slop.
* loosened mainspring strain screw (or cut too short) or bad or lightened spring.
* timing could be off and FP might not be aligned properly.
* cylinder stop could not be holding cylinder properly in place
* cylinder has too much front to back slop.
Last edited:
Newer .45ACP revolvers, which I believe includes all Model 625 revolvers, have some sort of a ledge inside the chamber, but I am quite sure that they are NOT designed to properly headspace the case. I have a cut-down 25-2, a 22-4 and a 325PD. Loading the 25-2 sounds and feels like six clicks; loading the others is a more or less muffled squish into place. For years the newer guns seemed to work OK, although I never really trusted them without clips. Finally, within the last year or so, I got some failures to fire with the 325.
The new guns are obviously designed solely for clips. If they actually work without them, fine, but don't count on it. S&W didn't.
The new guns are obviously designed solely for clips. If they actually work without them, fine, but don't count on it. S&W didn't.
SuperMan
Member
I've had:
25-2 (3)
625 Mountain Gun (3)
625 1989 (1)
625-7 PC (2)
1917 (2)
..and zero issues running without clips.
25-2 (3)
625 Mountain Gun (3)
625 1989 (1)
625-7 PC (2)
1917 (2)
..and zero issues running without clips.
Protocall_Design
Vendor
Every gun is an individual. We don't know what the condition of the OP's gun is, or the history of it's use or modifications. Just because other guns worked without moon clips doesn't mean this one will, even if they were next to each other on the assembly line.
If the OP isn't using moon clips, that is where I would start. It seems silly to me to shoot an auto caliber revolver without them, because then you have to poke out the empties one at a time like a single action Cowboy gun.
If the OP isn't using moon clips, that is where I would start. It seems silly to me to shoot an auto caliber revolver without them, because then you have to poke out the empties one at a time like a single action Cowboy gun.
Pig Hunter
Member
Are you using factory loads or reloads? I had Issues with my 625-8 PC like that. A longer strain screw fixed the issue. The primer on the old strain screw will let you know if that is the problem. The only .45 ACP revolver that was bored through that requires clips was the first Colt 1917's at the very beginning of our involvement in WWI. If using reloads with too much crimp will require clips. Factory spec. ammo should require no clips.
All S&W .45 ACP revolvers should fire without using moon clips. However, there were some that were built in the '80s and '90s where S&W was a bit sloppy with the chambering and clips were needed. This was written up in gun rags of the day.
StrawHat
Member
Brian Pearce wrote an article about it. I do not have a copy but maybe another member can summerize it for you.
Kevin
Oldherkpilot
Member
I sold a 625 to a customer back in '08 or '09 and told him he didn't need to use clips and another old timer concurred. Ours worked like champs. Come to find out his New one wouldn't fire reliably w\o the clips and the owner's manual specifically said you need to use clips. So I'm pretty sure some 625s may need to use clips.
First replace the mainspring and mainspring tension screw
Used full moon clips
I used 50 rounds of reloads [.45 ACP not .45 Auto Rim] with Wilson Combat full moon clips. Much better performance. I had a few round not go off on double action but all went off on the second try. I've got a new hammer spring coming from Wolff. I've not yet tried the primer cup shim technique but will give it a try.
I used 50 rounds of reloads [.45 ACP not .45 Auto Rim] with Wilson Combat full moon clips. Much better performance. I had a few round not go off on double action but all went off on the second try. I've got a new hammer spring coming from Wolff. I've not yet tried the primer cup shim technique but will give it a try.
