S&W 637 Wyatt Deep Cover

texas yankee

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I came across an article today related to the S&W 637 Wyatt Deep Cover. One of the claims in the article, was that the person who came up with the idea for the modifications (later adopted by S&W's Performance Center), was that "he had contacted S&W and told them he could modify one of their 637 revolvers in less than half an hour" - a benefit I was interestd in supposedly included a lighter trigger pull, reduced from originally up to 15 pounds to just under 11 pounds. My question - was the lighter trigger pull on these guns achieved by anything more than what'd go into a regular S&W revolver "trigger job"? FWIW, the author opined that "It was extremely painful to shoot this revolver", so I'm not as much interested in the gun as the trigger work. Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
 
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Thanks - perhaps it's just my lack of revolver experience, but I've tried going with lighter springs in some other revolvers and I've had light strikes. In the trigger pull lightening game, do lighter springs provide the majority of the benefit (a lighter trigger pull), versus polishing and\or dry-firing?
 
I’m just trying to understand more about the procedures of lightening a revolver trigger - what I read says that S&W somehow acquired what Wyatt developed - I don’t know about that or care about it - I’m just trying to learn about revolver trigger lightening, without light strikes - for a non-carry gun.
 
If you're having issues with light primer strikes, put the original hammer spring back in. Go to wolf springs and buy a three pack of return springs for your J frame. Try each one and use the one that gives you the lightest trigger pull, but will still reset quickly.
 
Thanks LPD256 - so just the spring kit, no internal parts polishing?

My rule is that for carry guns you want a carry package. In the unlikely event that you shoot someone with it remember you will be questioned on the witness stand by a prosecutor or attorney for the family about modifications to your gun. And your “hair trigger” or some such nonsense.
 
Apex was **** on mine , quickly threw it out. Spoke to the factory S&W rep at a few NRA shows ago, back when they were comin out with their snubs like pro series, performance center, super tuned etc. The pro guns are simply different springs, straight from horses mouth, the PC version have both, true action enhancement and spring changes.
 
The APEX kit is the ticket you wont get light strikes, the kit comes with a longer fireing pin.
 
Not sure who wrote the article you read but most J frames can be unpleasant if you are not used to it.

I don't believe this design was any more painful than any other.

As for light primer strikes check your strain screw, lower on the grip, and make sure it hasn't been loosened. Some folks try to lighten trigger pull by loosening that and it can cause light strikes.

If looking for a J frame with a smooth trigger pull check out the Performance Center 442. The two tone one.

If you want to smooth up your trigger I would dry fire it to work out the kinks and that would smooth it out.

Another option is sending in to S&W and have them do it. I have 2 done by them and they are like butter.

Not a big fan of the home gunsmith approach on a handgun that could save my life. But I know my limitations.
 
Thanks for all of the guidance - I learned a lot - FWIW, as I mentioned originally, the gun I was asking about would be a range gun, a regular shooter - any gun I carry for self-defense, I'd never modify - but that's just my preference.
 
Thanks for all of the guidance - I learned a lot - FWIW, as I mentioned originally, the gun I was asking about would be a range gun, a regular shooter - any gun I carry for self-defense, I'd never modify - but that's just my preference.

You're on the right track and a step ahead of many. Like most other handguns and rifles, J-frame .38s work very well straight-out-of-the-box, and, with rare exception, are 100% reliable. Many shooters are unaware of this and don't shoot them enough in stock condition to become accustomed to them.

Sure, the double-action trigger pull is heavy but very manageable with practice. Small frame size and light weight compounds the difficulty for less than skilled shooters, but again, with practice, good shooting is possible.
 
You're on the right track and a step ahead of many. Like most other handguns and rifles, J-frame .38s work very well straight-out-of-the-box, and, with rare exception, are 100% reliable. Many shooters are unaware of this and don't shoot them enough in stock condition to become accustomed to them.

Sure, the double-action trigger pull is heavy but very manageable with practice. Small frame size and light weight compounds the difficulty for less than skilled shooters, but again, with practice, good shooting is possible.

^^^what he said. Double. Triple. Among the bushel baskets of J-frame snubs that I own are 2 "Wyatt" 637 PCs and if I could find a 3rd NIB, I'd buy that, too! Slick little carry pieces as they came from the factory, my only mod was to remove the hip grip knock-offs. Perfectly balanced DAOs, no spring work necessary. Deadly on rapid-fire silos. Guess you can tell I'm a fan.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
 
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The main reason I asked about this gun was because I've had light strike issues with revolvers where I tried to smooth out and\or lighten the trigger with different (lighter) springs - I usually just went back to the factory springs and learned to live with it as it was. I was wondering about why Apex included a firing pin in their kit, and doing some reading about it, it seems that some have had issues with the pin - the finish wearing off, being "sticky" in the channel, etc. - I also read the S&W started using a longer firing pin - so for me, knowing what I know now, IF I wanted to try and lighten the trigger on a revolver, I'd want a lighter spring set and the slightly longer firing pin - in addition to some dry firing with snap caps - does that approach make sense?
 
My rule is that for carry guns you want a carry package. In the unlikely event that you shoot someone with it remember you will be questioned on the witness stand by a prosecutor or attorney for the family about modifications to your gun. And your “hair trigger” or some such nonsense.

The sheriff in my county requires you to qualify with each gun on the carry license and lists them by serial number on the license.

He requires each gun be in original condition unmodified. He will allow changed sights or grips. But no spring kits.
 
The sheriff in my county requires you to qualify with each gun on the carry license and lists them by serial number on the license.

He requires each gun be in original condition unmodified. He will allow changed sights or grips. But no spring kits.

That sheriff has some insight.
 
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