S&W 686 Competitor?

Beeser

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I'm thinking about purchasing a S&W 686 Competitor. Opinions? Planning to use it for Bullseye competition. Are there any other .357 Magnum or .38 Special revolvers that were manufactured with a top rail?
 
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Most all .38/357 revolvers from '93 and up are drilled and tapped for mounting optics. I'd pick the model 14 as the premier target .38, I used a 686 for a number of years and prefered the heavier barrel. That would be on thing I would want to check out first with the Competitor, how heavy is it being Bullseye is done one handed. Some claim 38/357 guns are not as accurate using .38s', I have never found this to be true with the right load. There were some 6" 686s' put out a few years ago that were chambered in .38 Special with the patridge front sight that I thought would be ideal for Bullseye. If you are planning on using the optics anyway then any 4"+ gun should work fine, the main thing would be the weight/balance with the optic mounted.
 
Most all .38/357 revolvers from '93 and up are drilled and tapped for mounting optics. I'd pick the model 14 as the premier target .38, I used a 686 for a number of years and prefered the heavier barrel. That would be on thing I would want to check out first with the Competitor, how heavy is it being Bullseye is done one handed. Some claim 38/357 guns are not as accurate using .38s', I have never found this to be true with the right load. There were some 6" 686s' put out a few years ago that were chambered in .38 Special with the patridge front sight that I thought would be ideal for Bullseye. If you are planning on using the optics anyway then any 4"+ gun should work fine, the main thing would be the weight/balance with the optic mounted.

A 4" 686 WITH A RED DOT IS A GREAT BULLSEYE GUN. ALL OF MY 3 ARE VERY ACCURATE WITH FACTORY .38s AND RELOADS. NONE WERE BOUGHT NEW. NO NEED TO BUY A NEW COMPETITOR, IF YOU ARE GOING TO MOUNT A RED DOT. CLEAN USED STANDARD 686s ARE PLENTIFUL. A QUALIFIED 'SMITH CAN TUNE THE ACTION IF NEED BE. I GUARANTEE THAT WITH A RED DOT, THEY WILL SHOOT BETTER THAN 98% OF THE SHOOTERS CAN HOLD THEM. JERRY M. MIGHT NOTICE A DIFFERENCE, BUT YOU WONT. IF YOU CAN FIND A DRILLED AND TAPPED ONE, WITHOUT THE LOCK, ALL THE BETTER. OF COURSE, IF MONEY IS NO OBJECT, AND YOU WANT TO LOOK COOL, THE COMPETITOR WILL DO THAT FOR YOU…….
 
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Thanks all for the responses. I didn't know that some of the S&W revolvers were already tapped from the factory for scopes. How can you tell? This is something that isn't usually mentioned in a typical GunBroker ad. I like the looks of the full underlug, so I'll probably stick with one of those.
 
Or look in your copy of the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson - it lists the engineering changes for each model so you can tell with which dash number frames were drilled and tapped for scope mounts. If you don't have a book, they are available on Amazon and other sites.

Ed
 
Or look in your copy of the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson - it lists the engineering changes for each model so you can tell with which dash number frames were drilled and tapped for scope mounts. If you don't have a book, they are available on Amazon and other sites.

Ed

Thanks for the heads up. I just ordered a copy.
 
Someone just brought to my attention that the forward mounted rail might make the gun too heavy up front with a scope or red dot. Is this an advantage going with a 686 where the mount is further back?
 
Beeser, I have owned several handguns, with a couple of different brands of red dots. In my experience, the further back on the gun you can mount the red dot, the better. Try to keep the additional weight/mass over your hand(s). I favor the B-Square no 'smithing mounts, coupled with the MicroDot .30mm sight. A small light package. There is no need to remove the rear sight or touch the gun with a tool at all…...
 
Beeser, I have owned several handguns, with a couple of different brands of red dots. In my experience, the further back on the gun you can mount the red dot, the better. Try to keep the additional weight/mass over your hand(s). I favor the B-Square no 'smithing mounts, coupled with the MicroDot .30mm sight. A small light package. There is no need to remove the rear sight or touch the gun with a tool at all…...
Thanks as usual for the suggestion but after doing a little online search for the B-Square revolver mount I don't see how it doesn't require removing the rear sight. What am I missing?
 
From my personal experience I would always suggest that a serious Target designated Revolver be purchased in a Blued Finish IF AVAILABLE. I find they are easier to shoot in bright sunshine.

I'm not familiar with the "Competitor" Model, and don't know if that is even an option, but I personally chose a M586 over the Stainless M686 for that reason.
 
I believe the 686-4 is the model they started drilling/tapping the gun for a mount. Also, these don't have the internal lock and contain no MIM parts. Maybe look for one of those. If its not listed in the GB ad, send an email and ask which version.
 
Thanks as usual for the suggestion but after doing a little online search for the B-Square revolver mount I don't see how it doesn't require removing the rear sight. What am I missing?

THERE IS A SLOT CUT INTO THE MOUNT, THAT ACCEPTS THE REAR SIGHT BLADE. IT FITS LIKE IT WAS MADE FOR IT---BECAUSE IT WAS ! ! ! lol
 
Or look in your copy of the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson - it lists the engineering changes for each model so you can tell with which dash number frames were drilled and tapped for scope mounts. If you don't have a book, they are available on Amazon and other sites.

Ed

The book is a great help. The down side to having the Standard Catalog is you will see many more models that you will need.
 
Here is a 629 with a Millett mount and scope, I have the same setup on my 686 that I used for Bullseye.
 

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I used the Allchin Mini STS Scope Mount with a Burris Fastfire III on my 4" 686 to mount the red dot close to the bore line, which reduces parallax error. It makes a compact and tidy arrangement.
 

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All adjustable sight revolvers with the new style rear sight (round tang - bottom picture) are drilled & tapped at the factory.

The guns with the old square tang sights (top picture) are not.

2e2qtmw.jpg


The Competitor series of guns use LPA rear sights, which are secured to the top strap via the factory drilled & tapped holes. Underneath that sight the frame is milled for regular, new-style, adjustable sights.

Adios,

Pizza Bob
 
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