S&W 686 or Ruger GP100?

[oneminute]

I started working in 1992 with a midnight black 686. I traded it off when we transitioned to SIGs. I wish now I had kept that piece but for purely sentimental reasons.

I have one GP100 that I have owned for almost 19 years and another WC GP100 that I got for Christmas in 2013.

Get whichever one you find the most pleasing. The 686 and GP100 are both great revolvers that will give you a lifetime of service and can be passed on for another generation to enjoy.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[Feel Lucky Punk?]

I've had 2 GP100s, a 6" and 4", both excellent guns. They are put together tight, and as others say, built like a tank. The only issue with the GP100 were the rough areas around the hammer and trigger, which I polished out to a smooth finish. I recently bought a 686-6. There is space between the barrel and frame which, for me, is really annoying. The finish was also spotty in places, especially where the barrel met the frame. I called Smith and sent it back, they are supposed to fix all issues. I looked at two other Smiths I recently purchased, a model 29 Classic and a 329PD. The 329 is put together well with everything a tight fit, the 29 has an even larger gap between frame and barrel, it is also heading back to have that fixed. Can't comment on shooting the 686, I've only put a few rounds through it, but the GP100 is a great shooting gun. I would have at least one of each.

 

[BigBill]

For ccw and a shooter that will eat any stout load you put in it the ruger is unmatched gp100 wise for its strength and size. The only better revolver was the ruger RedHawks in 357 magnum. I have hammered my ruger revolvers in the past some beyond belief. I had guys leaving the range when I shot my 44's & 357's. The strongest revolver out there.

To smooth out the trigger put some moly on the sear.

 

[BigBill]

I REALLY CAN'T IMAGINE WHAT "HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS WORTH OF WORK" HAD TO BE DONE TO YOUR 686-6 TO MAKE IT "REALLY NICE". WAS IT A BASKET CASE ? ? ? I HAVE HANDLED MANY 686s IN MY YEARS OF SHOOTING--INCLUDING 3 OF MY OWN, ALL PURCHASED USED. NONE OF THEM REQUIRED HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS WORTH OF WORK. THE 686 IS BUILT LIKE A TANK, AND UNLESS YOU USE IT AS A SLEDGE HAMMER, OR A CROW BAR, IT WILL STAND UP TO MANY GENERATIONS ON NORMAL USE, W/O NEEDING HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS OF WORK…...

Shooting stout magnum loads all the time can ruin a revolver that's not really built to be hammered. My ruger shows no signs of wear yet from being hammered.

 

[bananaman]

I bought a GP100 early last year. A clean blued 4". In my book after shooting it, the Ruger just did not measure up. It went up for sale in under 2 weeks. I enjoy my 586, & 686 more. Deep down inside S&W's are my thing to date barring none. Bob

 

[Mark6005]

Well this thread is a few days old but anyway...picked up my new 686 4 inch yesterday. Disappointed in the trigger and the hammer pull. Used to smooth smith triggers. In front of me I have that revolver and my stainless gp100 4 inch. The smith maybe a little nicer to the eye. Comparable weight, the trigger actually is better on the gp. I hate that clanging noise when I dry fire the 686. Something new to me. Anyway they are home to stay I don't often get rid of guns. A nice pair and I hope the smith trigger loosens up

 

[shawn mccarver]

The difference between the S&W 686 and the GP100 is illustrated in this "period ad."

 

[mg357]

I have some limited shooting experience with both of these revolvers.

I thought the 686 was better but that is just my humble and modest 2 cents.

 

[BobR1]

At our local Sportsman's Club we have shot Defensive Pistol for years. We had a chance to pick up some steel a few years back, and have been adding to it ever since. We now alternate month to month. One Month Defensive Pistol shooting Silhouette targets and the next month a steel match. We added ICORE to out handgun match schedule a couple years ago on the Sunday following the regular handgun match on Saturday.

When we added ICORE several of our Defensive Pistol shooters purchased a revolver to shoot in our ICORE (Revolver Only) Match. My brother had previously bought a Willy Clapp 3" GP100. We had the Old Master Ron Power (Power Custom) do a little work on it. He ended up doing his complete Power Custom Combat treatment to it. It is one slick GP100.
After handeling my brothers Willy Clapp GP100, several of our Defensive Pistol shooters bought the Willy Clapp GP100 to shoot in the ICORE Match. One also bought 2 of the Match Champions.
I am sure we have a higher percentage of GP100's shooting handgun matchs at our range than is normal. We run over 50% Ruger GP100's.

Why ?? Our local gun shop has been able to get new Ruger Revolvers regularly. When he gets a new S&W revolver in, it will be a J frame, and normally an airweight.
All of our S&W shooters have owned their revolvers for several years. All of our Ruger Revolver shooters are the guys buying new guns.

I have a 686-1 and a 686-5 both Power Custom Combats.
I have the 3 Inch Adjustable Sight GP100 discribed several posts above, and 2 of the SP101's for our Club BUG Division. Owning both Tuned up S&W & Ruger Revolvers I believe you can get a little better trigger on a S&W K or L frame when both are worked on my a Good Revolver Smith, but not by much. It is no trick at all to get a nicer trigger on a GP100 than a factory 686. Infact I it is a **** shoot. I have picked up new GP100's with a great trigger, and 686's that left lots to be desired. Or this could go the other way. You have Monday and Friday production on both brands.

The Rugers do have some good points to keep in mind:
Quick Change Front Sight (Standard on all Adjustable Sight GP100's) Standard only on the SSR version of a 686.
The cylinder is NOT retained by a screw that can shoot loose on a GP100.
The Ejector Rod cannot come unscrewed and lock up a Ruger.
No fragile side plate to remove to do a good cleaning.
No Strain Screw to shoot loose either.

I am primarily a S&W man, but I do own A GP100, 2 of the SP101's and a 480 Super RedHawk. Non of them are on my to sell list. Infact I am looking for a Snub SP101 in 22 LR as my next revolver.

To me the quality of Ruger Revolvers has been improving the last few years. I have not heard this said as much about S&W revolvers. I have only had issues with 2 revolvers over the years, and I have owned a bunch of them over the last 45 years. Years ago (33 probably) I had a 66 that would lock up shooting 357 Magnums, and a 3" Model 24 that had an action issue probably 20 years ago.
That is not very many problems out of a big pile of revolvers.
I have had a trigger job done on about every revolver I own, and plan to keep. I expect to work on every one to get the trigger where I am happy with it.

Bob

 

[Groo01]

Groo here
When I carried a revolver for serious, I got the best I could find.
A 357 Python
When the replacement cost went sky high, I got an S&W m-25 in 45Colt
If I was doing it today, A revolver to beat up at work, I would pick a Ruger.
There is just more there [ Dad calls the Gp100 "A Hammer"]
and that is what is needed for a knockaround gun.
For you, consider what you will do with it [ targets,hunting,HD,CCW]
What loads you will use[Bunny fart-Bear thumpers]
Where you will carry it[field,range,truck,CCW]
And then get the one you LIKE and that FITS.
Ps And if your of that mind - think of who gets it after you-
either should go that long.

 

[spad124]

Well, kind of reviving this thread.

I've owned a 686-1 6" since the late 1980s, and acquired several other S&W revolvers in the past 30 years, but I've just liked the GP100 for a long time. So, I bought my first GP100 last week, SS 4.2".

Comparing the GP100 to my worn in 686, my 686 is better finished and has a better trigger. The GP100 has grinding/ tooling marks on the recoil shield and in the cylinder cut out of the frame. In the scheme of things the lack of finishing probably doesn't matter, but it's clearly not as well finished as the 686-1. The outside is well polished, it's the inside or not very visible areas where not much attention was given to really finishing the gun. Plus the trigger is heavier and has some creep in SA. But the lock up is very tight on all but one charge hole, and that one is more than acceptable.

I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet, just hoping its at least as accurate as my 686.

 

[tgshowell]

Looks like the consensus so far is old 686 or new GP100. I have a shot a lot of both and own a couple of each. In my experience...it completely depends on the OP's "Philosophy of Use" (that's a Nutnfancy term for ya).

In my experience, the 686s are excellent guns. No flaws and no reason NOT to buy one. That said the GP100s are a lot cheaper, and one of mine has a trigger pull that feels better than any Smith I own.

The reason I have the Rugers? To actually use them.

I live down in Louisiana and on hunting trips/crawfishing/etc. - or basically any situation where I know the gun might get tanked, dropped in water, banged into trees, etc...It's usually the GP100 I go to to get the job done. Maybe I'm just too sentimental to force my Smiths into hazardous situations. But something about the roughness of the GP100 never makes me regret that it's the one to get dirty.

You won't go wrong with either purchase. Buy one and don't look back.

 

[spad124]

Looks like the consensus so far is old 686 or new GP100. I have a shot a lot of both and own a couple of each. In my experience...it completely depends on the OP's "Philosophy of Use" (that's a Nutnfancy term for ya).

In my experience, the 686s are excellent guns. No flaws and no reason NOT to buy one. That said the GP100s are a lot cheaper, and one of mine has a trigger pull that feels better than any Smith I own.

The reason I have the Rugers? To actually use them.

I live down in Louisiana and on hunting trips/crawfishing/etc. - or basically any situation where I know the gun might get tanked, dropped in water, banged into trees, etc...It's usually the GP100 I go to to get the job done. Maybe I'm just too sentimental to force my Smiths into hazardous situations. But something about the roughness of the GP100 never makes me regret that it's the one to get dirty.

You won't go wrong with either purchase. Buy one and don't look back.

I've used my 686 as my "around the property/working gun" for 20 plus years. Maybe I'm getting a little sentimental about my 686 as my "philosophy of use" for the GP100 is about the same as yours: I think I'll start carrying the GP as my working gun.

 

[dockerd]

Well since you brought this back up and I didn't see what the op got, I'll throw in my two cents. I've had a 4" GP100 for a few years and it's a great gun. I just got a s&w model 66-4 two weeks ago and really like this gun. It's a smaller version of the 686 and in 2 1/2" it's a great ccw gun. Just thought I would throw that in for consideration.

 

[Ranger514]

The OP shot and liked the GP 100. I'd say he should shoot a 686 and see if he likes it more; then, he can decide if it's worth the extra money. I don't own a GP 100. I do own a 686-4+, which I like a lot. In order to make a fair comparison, he needs to shoot both firearms. Both are fine handguns. It comes down to nothing more than personal preference.

 

[KS Shooter]

Shortly after Ruger introduced the GP100 in the 80's I bought a new Stainless 6" and used it stock for NRA Action Pistol competition with only a trigger job. During the winter before my 2nd season, I took it to my local pistolsmith and he took it to a full-race gun by installing a large match bull-barrel with weighted underlug, scope mount with Tasco Pro-Point Red Dot. This gun was like a tank. Most all of my competition shot Smiths that would occasionally break down during a match. This GP100 performed flawlessly match after match year after year. In the mid 90's I got burned out on shooting sports and sold off all of my competition guns and rode Motorcycles for the next 20 years. A few years ago I sold my last bike and got back into shooting again. My current collection includes a fantastic shooting 1986 model S&W 625-4 (.45ACP) revolver and a newly acquired Ruger GP100 Stainless 6". Now I can go back and forth between them both for a true comparison. The Smith is as smooth as butter to shoot while the new Ruger's trigger is somewhat stiff by comparison but I will likely have my pistolsmith give it a full trigger job soon. I would have to say that both a great guns while the Smith may feel more refined, it can also be higher maintenance then the Ruger which is still "built like a tank".

 

[socrates007]

I have shot both GP100s and 686/686Plus models a ton over the years. I also own both. I have to say that I truly love both models very much. But, I would add this observation:

A 686 (or 686 Plus - 7 shot version) is probably going to have a better trigger from the factory over a factory GP100. On my GP100, I had a trigger job done, gave it an eleven degree target crown, and also put in aftermarket trigger & return springs. ONLY after these modifications were done to my GP100 would I say that it was in the same class as a 686 or 686 Plus. Without those modifications, I would take a 686/686 Plus any day over a standard factory GP100.

With the above mods to a GP100 from a competent gunsmith, then the choice is really very difficult. It would only come down to if you prefer a 6-shot vs 7-shot revolver (only S&W offers the 7-shot version). Also, it would come down to if you do not mind the internal lock on the newer 686/686 Plus models. That would not be an issue on a pre-lock version of a 686/686 Plus. That is one major reason I purchased a GP100 last year instead of another 686 Plus - I did not want that internal lock.

Anyhow, both are great revolvers and the Ruger may be initially a bit cheaper that the S&W. However, for me it is not a savings as the Ruger needs the above modifications IMO to compete with the S&W. I hope that helps you out in your decision making. By the way, my 686 Plus (factory stock with no mods) and modified GP100 are just about a dead even tie regarding accuracy.

 

[skrazo]

Another Question

Are the above discussions regarding GP100 for a "standard" or the latest "match" model? I've been "coveting" a GP100 for some time now. I think the "match" model is a lot more pricey.

 

[at_liberty]

I have shot both GP100s and 686/686Plus models a ton over the years. I also own both. I have to say that I truly love both models very much. But, I would add this observation:

<snip>
Also, it would come down to if you do not mind the internal lock on the newer 686/686 Plus models. That would not be an issue on a pre-lock version of a 686/686 Plus. That is one major reason I purchased a GP100 last year instead of another 686 Plus - I did not want that internal lock.

<snip>

I think the OP was talking about new guns. First we change the subject to our preference of used guns and then convert it into a backdoor whine about trigger locks. Why don't we just disqualify any discussion or mention of new guns? Or we could hold out for a subforum just for new guns made under current ownership, a subset of the current forum era definition.

 

[MAJPATT]

The answer is quite obvious: neither. 627 all the way.