S & W Grip Staining

jchodur

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Does anybody have any idea exactly what color stain S & W used on their Goncalo Alves grips? The first picture shows a S & W grip from the early 70's and it appears as reddish with reddish brown streaks. Gorgeous! The second picture shows grips I purchased recently from Ahrends in Goncalo Alve wood but they are in their natural color with just a tung oil finish. Also gorgeous! I would like to purchase another pair for a new S & W revolver I'm picking up today that comes with rubber grips-ugh. I would like them in the 70's redish color. I spoke with Kim at Ahrends (always very helpful) but they do not stain those grips. However, I find I can order them without the tung oil finish. I'm thinking maybe I can finish them myself but would need to know the exact color stain S & W used. I'm sure it was some version of a red. I did a search on the forum and found instructions from Gary (GWPERCLE) who uses Minwax Red Mahagony stain. Would that get me the '70's redish brown I am seeking or does anybody have a closer match?
Thanks in advance.
jchodur
 

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Realizing that all woods absorb stain differently even among the same species, I think Minwax makes mahogany and redwood colors. I bet that is your most reddish. Now, you can experiment on your own with mineral spirits and a tube of tint. You will need test pieces of wood and add a little tint to the mineral spirits and stir VERY will. Trial and error but I have colored antiques that way. Go to paint store and show them what you are trying to duplicate for correct tint color. Minwax early American has some reddish color in it. You can also add tint to stain. Mix well. Your best sample wood will be the back of the grip to be colored. Small dots with Q tip. Also you can tint natural stain. Good luck.
 
S&W did not apply stain, they used a clear proprietary oil varnish up until the late 70's and switched to a polyurethane formula.

There is a myriad of methods to apply tones to wood. Stains (pigmented and non-pigmented), dyes and tinted oil.

Minwax is a pigmented stain, it's not a favorite with me because pigmented stains tend to obscure the subtleties of natural grain patterns by over darkening them.

Recently, I've been using and have been really happy with the "Antique Wood" Stains (actual a dye) sold by Laurel Mountain Forge: (Laurel Mountain Forge

I use the cherry and Maple "stains", often mixing the two to obtain the look I want. The dye can be diluted down with either acetone or de-natured alcohol, so it goes on light, and then you can build up the color with subsequent applications until you get what you want. I Then use their Permalyn stock sealer as the final topcoat, applying multiple coats until I get the level of gloss I want.

The other option, which was popular in the 50's/60's, is a red tinted oil. Brownells sells Plinkington - Classic Gunstock Finish (PILKINGTON CLASSIC GUNSTOCK FINISH | Brownells), which duplicates the red-brown tones on guns of that era. This is a one step finish, as opposed to the above.

Hope this helps in giving you an idea.
 
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I think the colors on S&W stocks are more a result of the wood aging and exposure to light than any finishing process on their part. That's why there are so many variations in color and so many mismatched grips.
 
I restored a set for a fellow member a few weeks ago. First time I'd tried to duplicate factory finish on G.A. stocks. I mostly dabble with pre-war walnut.
Anyway, after stripping the yellowed refinish (probably Tru Oil) off of them, I used several coats of natural tone Danish oil, rubbed off, then a couple light coats of spray semi-gloss lacquer. From raw wood, this caused a much more reddish finish than I expected. This turned out very much like original factory color.
Here's a link.
smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/589487-cgt4570-top-notch.html
 
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As has been mentioned numerous times S&W wasn't in the business of building collectibles. They were trying to send completed firearms out the door as quick as possible. We all imagine some worker lovingly admiring the grain on a piece of wood and then carefully turning this into a pair of perfectly book matched stocks but I'll bet that unless those stocks were for his gun that never happened. I'm sure the wood was processed to produce as little waste as possible. Profit was the main concern.
 
Brownells sell a reddish brown alcohol based stain thats been around awhile.
Called Chestnut Ridge it has been used on more stocks than alot for the old red brown look..
It can be diluted w alcohol to diminish the red hue..
It can be top coated with oil finish ie tung, linseed, true-oil et al..
Its just another tool in your wood coloring tool box..
 
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Brownells sell a reddish brown alcohol based stain thats been around awhile.
Called Chestnut Ridge it has been used on more stocks than alot for the old red brown look..
It can be diluted w alcohol to diminish the red hue..
It can be top coated with oil finish ie tung, linseed, true-oil et al..
Its just another tool in your wood coloring tool box..
This........and with the alcohol based Brownells stain, you can also add a little of the Fiebings red leather dye to make it a bit more red. Here is a set of Ahrends moradillo wood grips that were a natural blonde color until stained as described above
 

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Thanks for all the suggestions. I don't know how I am going to handle this yet but if I try the staining myself I will post the results. As stated, I picked up the revolver Thursday and it has the stock rubber grips. Although I don't care for the looks of them I am forced to admit that when shooting 357 Mag ammo they are very comfortable.
 

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