S&W Hand Ejector 3rd edition, model 1926

[benfishn]

Greetings S&W'ers

New to forum, Many years ago, I inherited a S&W revolver from my grandfather. He was Tx Border Patrol for many years. I always thought this was a New Century but thru further research seems now to be a .44 Hand Ejector 3rd model or 1926 model. Serial # 64619, smooth wood handle, 4" barrel , nickle plate. Anyone have a link to where I can find date of manufacture or history. Thank you in advance for any help.

Regards: Ben

 

[bubbajoe45]

Welcome to the Forum! I'm sure someone here can help you. The first step might be to post the serial no. (you don't have to post all of it - just 'x' out the last few numbers. It should be stamped on the butt, the back of the cylinder, and on the underside of the barrel inside the ejector shroud. Also, a good place to start would be to determine if it is a pre-war or post-war gun. I don't think the pre-war guns will have the S pre-fix (someone can correct me if I'm wrong). Here is a partial list of post-war serial nos. (the 4th model was begun in 1950)

Post-War S Series N frames:

S62,489 – S67,999……..1946 - Early 1947
S68,000 – S71,999……….Late 1947 – Early 1948
S72,000 – S72,499……….Late 1948 - Early 1949
S72,500 – S74,999……….Late 1949 – Early 1950
S75,000 – S80,499……….Late 1950 – Early 1951
S80,500 – S85,999……….Late 1952 – Early 1952
S86,000 – S94,999…….…Late 1952 – Early 1953
S95,000 – S102,999…….Late 1953 – Early 1954

 

[murphydog]

Agree with Joe, the listed SN is too late to be a pre-war gun. Is there an S stamped in front of the 646xx number? If so, as noted in the table above it is more likely an early post-war or transitional .44, meaning some pre-war features with the new hammer block developed during WW II. We like photos

http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-wesson-forum-office/78728-posting-photos-forum-new-format.html

 

[benfishn]

Per Bubbajoe's reply, I was looking at the wrong numbers. On the back of the cylinder and under the barrel, the s/n is 321XX, No "S". When the cylinder is open, on the body, "easiest seen" is the number I initially sent, # 64619. I will try to send some pics tomorrow, per Murphydog's link. As I said, I'm new to this. BTW is blued, not nickle plate. It was late.

Ben

 

[Maverick1950]

Per Bubbajoe's reply, I was looking at the wrong numbers. On the back of the cylinder and under the barrel, the s/n is 321XX, No "S". When the cylinder is open, on the body, "easiest seen" is the number I initially sent, # 64619. I will try to send some pics tomorrow, per Murphydog's link. As I said, I'm new to this. BTW is blued, not nickle plate. It was late.

Ben

I have a 3rd Model with serial number 340XX. I had it lettered, and it shipped to Wolf & Klar on February 13, 1930.

 

[Muley Gil]

Welcome to the Forum, benfishn.

Sounds like a nice gun. It's great to have a family heirloom like that.

In case you don't know, Wolf & Klar was a store in Ft Worth that convinced Smith & Wesson to bring back the enclosed ejector rod shroud on the N frame revolvers by placing a large order. Most of the early 1926s went to W&K.

 

[Art Doc]

Late 28 early 29.

 

[Muley Gil]

Probably shipped in mid 1928. Can't tell for sure without a factory letter.

 

[Art Doc]

I have one 300 earlier and it shipped 7/6/28.

 

[bettis1]

Congratulations on owning one of the most desirable old Smiths. They were extremely popular with the southwestern lawmen. Having a family history tied to it is the icing on the cake. I would document all of you grandfather's history that you can, including any pictures, badges, news clippings, etc.

Those years 1920's-30's) were pretty exciting ones on the Texas-Mexico border (kinda like today).

Bob

 

[DCWilson]

Benfishn, that's a great gun to have as a family heirloom. Congratulations, and welcome to the forum.

By all means, please post some photos!

 

[olemanbrn]

I had a 38/44 awhile back. Prior to Model number system when the revolvers were fit in both soft and (1) hard fitting the serial number on the butt would be marked on the (2) rear of the cylinder, (3) under the barrel or in the barrel shroud, (4) the underside of the extractor star and (5) the rear edge of the yoke. If it had adjustable sights, it would also have the S/N on the (6) underside of the rear sight. On pre-world war II revolver the yoke is also numbered to the gun on the surface that faces the front of the cylinder. My .38/44 Police Target Model did not have the original grips on it when I acquired it.
My best guess is that they would have marked the early model grips with the serial number.

A work number stamped on (1) the yoke, on (2) the frame under the yoke is the work number. It is also on (3) the inside of the side plate. The work number is put on before the serial number to keep the selectively fit parts together during early manufacturing. I hope that this explains all the numbers. Since it had al the serial numbers except the on inside the shroud of the barrel, I wasn't going to take the side plate off to verify the third work number. I took the historian's word for it having the work order number under the right side plate.

 

[benfishn]

Sorry Fellars, having problems posting pictures. Having a senior moment, week, month. Trying to network between puters and I don't know photobucket. Seems like it would be easier to copy/paste. I'll try later. Ben

 

[ButchG17]

Sorry Fellars, having problems posting pictures. Having a senior moment, week, month. Trying to network between puters and I don't know photobucket. Seems like it would be easier to copy/paste. I'll try later. Ben

Copy the URL with the in front of it, and paste it into your post.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0603/ButchG17/Smith-Wesson/photobucket.jpg

Yeah, I want to see it too! And hear any other info you may have on it or it's use!

 

[benfishn]

Greetings, I'm finally back hoping to post my 1st pic. This a test. Hopefully, here is a pic of my .44 special model 1926.

 

[benfishn]

Seems it worked. Here's a pic of the right side. As y'all can tell, the finish is not great. Any suggestions on how to make it look mo' betta ?

Regards; Ben

 

[benfishn]

Well that didn't work, here's another try.

 

[DCWilson]

A great classic revolver: an honorable old warhorse. It's wonderful to have that as a family heirloom.

A couple of observations: those stocks look like the kind that came on later production of the US Army Model of 1917; on a Model of 1926 I think you would originally have had checkered fields with an unscored diamond around the screw escutcheons. Also, do you know if that revolver was ever refinished? I can't quite make my eye read the light correctly, but there is a shadow line around the sideplate. That could indicate that the sideplate is not fitted all the way down, or maybe there is a small valley there between the plate and frame. If the latter, that usually indicates a refinish. Also on the other side, note that the pin end visible to the right of the company logo near the round top of the left wooden stock panel seems to look a little flat. That also is an indicator of refinishing, as is the fact that stampings like the logo and the lines of text seem to have no high edges

Not that a refinish matters on a family gun; it's part of the revolver's history. Do you shoot that one? I think you should. It's a way of connecting with your grandfather.

 

[benfishn]

Thanks for the reply David. I have had the gun since 1968 and I know that it hasn't been refinished or had new grips in that time. Yes, I do shoot the gun. I've put bout 500 rounds thru in the last 40 years, mostly "Cowboy" rounds. It shoots real good. I also inherited some old .44 ammo. It looks different than the new ammo. It has a "ring" or "crimp" on the brass near the base of the lead.

Ben

 

[OFT II]

Ben, I have 32246 which was shipped to W&K in March of 1929. Your's should have shipped close to that date and may have been in the same shipment. Hope this helps.