S&W Model 53 Revolver .22 Rem. Jet

[jcelect]

Oh, does anyone have any experience shooting .22 WMR through their 53? I found Magnum cylinders at Numrich, they are currently back ordered.

S&W goofed, they stamped the right side of the model 53 guns with "22 Magnum". This is not the 22 WinMagnumRimfire cartridge. Remington seen the problem with the names so they named their cartridge the 22 Jet. The extra cylinders seen, from the factory for the model 53, are chambered in 22 long rifle. There have been some 22WMR cylinders found but they were custom made from a 22 long rifle cylinder. Here is a custom model 53 I seen on an auction site AND I did not buy it!

jcelect

 

[22hipower]

S&W goofed, they stamped the right side of the model 53 guns with "22 Magnum". This is not the 22 WinMagnumRimfire cartridge. Remington seen the problem with the names so they named their cartridge the 22 Jet. The extra cylinders seen, from the factory for the model 53, are chambered in 22 long rifle. There have been some 22WMR cylinders found but they were custom made from a 22 long rifle cylinder. Here is a custom model 53 I seen on an auction site AND I did not buy it!

jcelect

Oooooh, that would have been hard to resist.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

 

[steelslaver]

Not so bad. I recently paid $2 a round for Winchester 22 Hornet shipped to my door. Old/Odd calibers are expensive if you don't reload.

A K frame 22lr or 22 magnum cylinders will not work in a model 53. Model 53 used the 357 length cylinder and 17/18 or 48 cylinders are about 1/10" to short.

22 cylinders that fit model 53 are very hard to find.


I did make one out of a K frame 357 cylinder however.
19 cylinder conversion to 22lr mdl 53

 

[jcelect]

A K frame 22lr or 22 magnum cylinders will not work in a model 53. Model 53 used the 357 length cylinder and 17/18 or 48 cylinders are about 1/10" to short.

22 cylinders that fit model 53 are very hard to find.


I did make one out of a K frame 357 cylinder however.
19 cylinder conversion to 22lr mdl 53

Thank you, sir! Your point is spot on, and I forget to mention it above!
jcelect

 

[Sh0ot15T]

For now I do have the rimfire inserts that came with the revolver. Thanks to Dr. Charlie for nailing down the mfg. date. That makes my next question even more difficult to ask, and I think I know how you all will answer. My dad had a Leupold 2 1/2x20 pistol scope mounted on his. I own the same scope, bought one for a .22 Hornet barrel on my contender. So, should I have the revolver drilled and tapped? Wiegand makes a base for K-frames. We have an outdoor range out here with steel at 1, 2, 3,4,5, and 800 yards. The jet sounds like a perfect round to reach out to 200, bit my eyes aren't quite there. I shoot the 400 yard steel Creedmor style with my X-frame and hot .45 Colts. It sports a 4x scope. Just not sure about doing that to this early model 53.

 

[22hipower]

If it is in relatively high condition (95+%), and you said you have the inserts and original box, I wouldn't D&T it. I suppose there are still quite a few of those packages around but I wouldn't modify a 60 year old nice S&W by D&Ting it. Values on these packages have been going up, everything has, but perhaps these 53s as much as any. I started watching them when they were $800ish and "too expensive." One with box, inserts, and extra cylinder can now easily reach $2k. D&T it and for most folks you now have a $800 gun with a box and inserts worth a couple hundred more. . .with the scope on it.

It if is in not so great condition maybe. Just my opinion, your gun, do what feels right to you. Maybe check accuracy without the scope first. If it has been fired quite a bit and has forcing cone erosion, jcelect, who knows as much about them as anybody here I think, says accuracy beyond 50 yards suffers. Not much point in scoping it if it isn't accurate at longer ranges. Good luck.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

Jeff
SWCA #1457

 

[Sh0ot15T]

True. As I stated, a little erosion and I mean very little. I'll test it at 50, and 100 yards and see. At the least I can do steel at 100. my eyes are good to that point. Also, can look for a B-Square no drill base. Think you sold me on no drill and tap. I was kind of already there, just had to hear it from someone else.

 

[jcelect]

True. As I stated, a little erosion and I mean very little. I'll test it at 50, and 100 yards and see. At the least I can do steel at 100. my eyes are good to that point. Also, can look for a B-Square no drill base. Think you sold me on no drill and tap. I was kind of already there, just had to hear it from someone else.

IMHO - GOOD IDEA! In the above pic of the eroded barrels, one of them is my "shooter"! I have shot a Jet at 150yds, but with open sights and my ageing eyes I won't brag about the group. For my shooter, it will do fine out to about 50yds but at 100yds I end up with a better pattern than a group. If you are intrigued by the cartridge, buy a TC barrel. They are out there and you have no erosion problems. You are shooting from a closed chamber! My interest has turned to Winchester's answer to the 22 Jet, back in the 60s, the .256 Win Mag! S&W chambered ONE 8 3/8" model 53 in the caliber and I don't own it!
jcelect

 

[Sh0ot15T]

I was able to locate a re-published owners manual, and a Weaver #307 no drill scope base for K-frames. Now I can try a scope and NOT ruin the revolver. Keeping it all original.

 

[Venom6]

Have a 6" which I dearly love. Would echo above posts: thoroughly degrease the cases and the chambers. I can go 2 to 3 cylinders before caes start to back out. I believe this is because most gunpowders are coated with graphite (I've been told that is to reduce static electricity and to allow the kernels to flow through the equipment better, but I don't know). Graphite is of course a lubricant, and I believe as some of it gets deposited on the cases and chamber walls during ignition, the cases start to back out.

Interestingly, my pistol is at least as accurate with the inserts in .22lr, despite the long jump to the rifling, as the Jet cylinder/ammo.

The blast is sobering, though recoil is mild. I took mine to Montana this year on a prairie dog hunt. The rancher insists we also kill any badger we see, so I did. 35 gr. Vmax at about 30 yards worked well.

 

[Sh0ot15T]

venom6, good to hear the revolver did it's job. I noticed in the owner's manual they did say to use lighter fluid or other "high octane" solvent to keep the chambers clean of oils and lubricants. After reading your post, I think I'll swab after every 2 cylinders full with 90% isopropyle alchol. Learning more every day. Thanks

 

[Sh0ot15T]

Venom6, were you using .223" bullets or .224". I've read not to use .224" for Rem. Jet in S&W revolver. Only T/C single shot. I'm just learning about this cartridge.

 

[series guy]

The no drill scope mount will leave permanent damage to the finish on your gun. I have a few guns that are drilled and tapped but the holes don't go completely through the top strap. When you reinstall the rear sight there is no evidence of the holes. If you really want to add an optic that would be a good option.

 

[StrawHat]

Regarding the erosion in the throat of the bore. Would it not be possible to freshen the throat? It should not need much removed to return it to like new condition.

Kevin

 

[jcelect]

Regarding the erosion in the throat of the bore. Would it not be possible to freshen the throat? It should not need much removed to return it to like new condition.

Kevin

You're correct! However, it is not an easy task! The amount removed from the face of the barrel must be exact, because of the pitch of the thread, so the barrel will clock correctly when tightened. The barrel breech face must be cut back to establish the correct BC gap so this means the forcing cone must be recut. Then you must shorten the ejector rod, so the cylinder lock works properly. In short, the job must be accomplished by a competent gun smith, not Bubba's gun shop! S&W does not have ANY new barrels! This is why, for those of us that like and shoot the mod53, we go the extra mile to shoot good reloads and only buy guns with no barrel erosion.
jcelect

 

[StrawHat]

You're correct! However, it is not an easy task! The amount removed from the face of the barrel must be exact, because of the pitch of the thread, so the barrel will clock correctly when tightened. The barrel breech face must be cut back to establish the correct BC gap so this means the forcing cone must be recut. Then you must shorten the ejector rod, so the cylinder lock works properly. In short, the job must be accomplished by a competent gun smith, not Bubba's gun shop! S&W does not have ANY new barrels! This is why, for those of us that like and shoot the mod53, we go the extra mile to shoot good reloads and only buy guns with no barrel erosion.
jcelect

Thank you. I had not considered removing metal from the breech of the barrel hence effecting the bc gap. I merely thought the forcing cone could be refreshed. I see that might not work.

Kevin

 

[Venom6]

Ha! I was hoping nobody would notice the reference to the 35 gr. Vmax. Yes, it is .224", which I'm sure will get me "beaten from the fort." As you all know, the Jet generally utilizes .222" or .223" bullets. I have several boxes of each left, but having once run out of bullets in a different context long ago and far away, have developed something of a hoarder's mentality when it comes to bullets, powder, and primers.

Both Kent Bellah back in the day, and Brian Pearce more recently, have said that SOME Jets can digest .224" bullets. The test, according to them, is to measure the chamber throats by attempting to insert a bullet from the front. If the throats will accept the bullet, you're probably good to go. So I did, and it does. Lane Pearce (sic) wrote a column in Shooting Times wherein he referenced a Sierra "data sheet" on the Jet utilizing .224" bullets. He went on to say that if you can slip a .224" bullet into the neck of a case fired in YOUR gun, you're GTG. Notice that Lane said that, not me. Notice as well that the 35 Vmax with the blunter ogive was intended for the likes of the Hornet, so the jacket is thinner. So I commenced to experiment cautiously, and I stopped when I got 1650 fps chronographed, and it works fine. But that's just me, and my gun, and I absolutely do not recommend anyone else try it.

 

[Sh0ot15T]

Venom6, thanks for explaining that. Though, I don't plan on trying. Also, you shouldn't be beaten up for trying something different. Supplies are hard to come by, and as re-loaders we are smart enough to carefully see if something is even possible. I have a Terrier, .38 S&W. However I run .357 diameter bullets quite accurately out of it. I say, "experiment, but carefully". No need to go to extremes, the great Elmer Keith blew up a lot of guns to come up with the .44 Mag. We're NOT Elmer Keith.

 

[Walter Rego]

The throats of my Model 53 measure 0.225" with a minus .0003 pin gauge. Which means they are close enough to 0.2247" for practical purposes.

It's not the cylinder throats that I'm concerned with, it is the bore dimensions. The gun was designed for 0.222" bullets. S&W's reasoning for that is unknown. Typical .22 caliber bullets in 40 and 45 grain weights designed for the .22 Hornet and Hornet velocities will be lightly constructed so I'm not worried about shooting the .223" Sierra 45 grain Hornet bullets, figuring they will swage down the bore without causing problems. But I'm not as comfortable shooting .224" bullets.

The 35 grain Vmax bullets are undoubtedly lightly constructed too but I wouldn't use them unless there really, really are no other options.

 

[Sh0ot15T]

Agreed, only when push comes to shove would I consider using them. My concern would be higher pressures created by the larger diameter bullet. Which is why Venom6 probably stopped at 1650 fps. Anything faster could have increased the pressure substantially, and dangerously.