S&W model 60-7 snubbie
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orangehole
Member
$305 FOR A 60-7? That is a steal especially if it in good condition
Yep! I am surprised you took the time to ask. Go get it!
Anglergator
Member
Model 60-7
If it is in good shape, forcing cone, lockup, etc., grab it for that price. I have a 60-7, and was told by a S&W factory rep this model was when they started engineering model 60's to shoot +P. Nice carry piece.
If it is in good shape, forcing cone, lockup, etc., grab it for that price. I have a 60-7, and was told by a S&W factory rep this model was when they started engineering model 60's to shoot +P. Nice carry piece.
Texas Star
US Veteran
The factory told me that Plus P warranty began with M-60-4.
However, M-60-7 is certainly included,and the price is terrific these days, if the gun is as it should be.
I MAY see some very light streaks or scratches, but they'll polish off with some Simichrome, etc. and elbow grease.
The price is about half what some try to charge for that model.
If you don't already know and appreciate why the gun is so good, pass on it. What bothers me is that someone will buy it and try to re-sell for about half again what they paid.
I want it to go to someone deserving, who'll keep it and carry it.
In my opinion, the M-60-7 is the best snub .38 ever made.
BTW, nice photos!
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white cloud
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If the gun is sound, that is about half what they charge for one around here.
S&WsRsweet
Member
That is a way fair price anything with S&W on it that goes bang is more that and more in my area
Andy Lowry
Member
I'd have already bought it at that price, and I don't even want a 60.
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Yes, it's a more than fair deal.
No, you don't have to buy it. Good luck in your decision.
No, you don't have to buy it. Good luck in your decision.
Dieseltech56
Member
I believe the 60-4 and 60-7 were released at the same time just one has a longer barrel and adjustable sights. It's likely they both had the strengthening features allowing them to shoot +P. I have a nice 60-7 and I paid s bit more for it
dcopper
Member
Give me the number to the store, and I'll Buy it! Puhlese! Go get it!!!!!!
Wow! What a steal. What's sad is the owner prob gave some dummy $100 or less for the gun. Why can't I find me a few dummies?
ShivasIrons
Member
I would consider that Sold!
Bill In Texas
Member
Congratulations aimedfire! I would have bought that 60 in a heartbeat! Great deal!
photoman
Member
You left the shop without it?!?!
Pef
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$305 for a 60-7 in good condition is an incredible deal.
What is very desirable about the 60-7 is the extra width of the front sight. For aimed shooting it makes a huge difference. I have a 60 no dash, a 60-3 and the 60-7. For aimed fire the 60-7 wins hands down.
I would say the 60-7 is the best model 60 snubbie of them all.
What is very desirable about the 60-7 is the extra width of the front sight. For aimed shooting it makes a huge difference. I have a 60 no dash, a 60-3 and the 60-7. For aimed fire the 60-7 wins hands down.
I would say the 60-7 is the best model 60 snubbie of them all.
roguegamma
Member
I paid $300 for a 60-7 at an estate sale in the summer of 2016. I ocassionally still lie in bed giggling at my good fortune. I'd buy another one at your quotes price in a heartbeat.
SeamasterSig
Member
Many consider the 60-7 to be the best J-frame of all time or at least the most desirable dash version of the 38 caliber model 60, myself included. It has some great upgrades over previous versions, such as a wider 1/8" sight and the heat treat package, and none of the disimprovements of later versions, in particular the IL and MIM parts, etc. In addition, it was made when (in my opinion) S&W was at the height of its game in the early-mid 1990s. It's my understanding that it was the first to be rated specifically for +p ammo, but first or not, it certainly can handle +p ammo with aplomb and the weight of the steel frame makes it a pleasure to shoot even heavy ammo such as the BB 158 grain SWC hollowpoints.
I have a 60-7 that came with three-finger Uncle Mikes, which are great at the range, although I find them impractical for concealed carry, so I bought some magnas and a Tyler-T for that "old school" look. If the model 60 you are considering is in good shape, then the price is excellent.
I have a 60-7 that came with three-finger Uncle Mikes, which are great at the range, although I find them impractical for concealed carry, so I bought some magnas and a Tyler-T for that "old school" look. If the model 60 you are considering is in good shape, then the price is excellent.
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Flintlock1
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So, good shape means what?
Bring a feeler age that has blades from .003" to .006"
Bring a small led flashlight.
Bring a good ear, and request to go into the office or someplace quiet to listen to the action. Slowly cycle the action and listen for consistency in the noises from position to position.
Then, cock the hammer and insert the feeler gages and check that the gap on lock-up is between .003" and .006" at each position. The lesser measurement will be rare. More likely to be near the top end, but each position should be pretty much consistent. Shine the light on a white or light colored background and look at the background through the chambers. Do not directly illuminate the chambers or you'll see "too much" and the light will actually hide the annealing that may have occurred as a result of lots of hot loads. Annealing is not desirable, but does not necessarily disqualify. Often, annealing will go hand in hand with bigger gap readings. Annealed steels will have a rainbow color. Next, look at the front of the crane and see that the machine facings match perfectly. The crane should not have a gap or be more open at the top than at the hinge pin.
That's about all you can do as a customer without having the gun detailed by a smith.
If you find nothing , you should buy it and be happy. In good shape, it's a 700+ revolver these days. I've been offered more for mine.
Bring a feeler age that has blades from .003" to .006"
Bring a small led flashlight.
Bring a good ear, and request to go into the office or someplace quiet to listen to the action. Slowly cycle the action and listen for consistency in the noises from position to position.
Then, cock the hammer and insert the feeler gages and check that the gap on lock-up is between .003" and .006" at each position. The lesser measurement will be rare. More likely to be near the top end, but each position should be pretty much consistent. Shine the light on a white or light colored background and look at the background through the chambers. Do not directly illuminate the chambers or you'll see "too much" and the light will actually hide the annealing that may have occurred as a result of lots of hot loads. Annealing is not desirable, but does not necessarily disqualify. Often, annealing will go hand in hand with bigger gap readings. Annealed steels will have a rainbow color. Next, look at the front of the crane and see that the machine facings match perfectly. The crane should not have a gap or be more open at the top than at the hinge pin.
That's about all you can do as a customer without having the gun detailed by a smith.
If you find nothing , you should buy it and be happy. In good shape, it's a 700+ revolver these days. I've been offered more for mine.
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