S&W Model 63 .22LR

I bought an older used 63 several months ago. It came with the target stocks, which I consider a must. When I got it, it had a .101 rear sight blade on it and shot several inches high at 7 yards!! I ordered a .126 rear sight and received a .146 rear sight. So, I installed it, and it was right on. I have seen very few 63 around over the years. They are fun guns to shoot, so if you can latch on to that one for a reasonable price, that would be a good thing. :-)

Edit: Added photos of new .146 rear sight blade, pinned black ramp sight and whole gun with target stocks, Safariland holster. I had the holster for some time, as it was advertised for a 4 inch K frame and it is a J frame holster. I also changed the trigger to a .312 smooth combat trigger. A fun gun!!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0473.jpg
    IMG_0473.jpg
    32.4 KB · Views: 22
  • IMG_0472.jpg
    IMG_0472.jpg
    38 KB · Views: 22
  • IMG_0470.jpg
    IMG_0470.jpg
    78.1 KB · Views: 29
Last edited:
As I mentioned on another post about 63's it the last one I'd sell.
I have smallerhands so the J's fit me better. Here is my woods outfit. A Canadian Russel and my 63. Bianci holster.
 

Attachments

  • kit and russel.JPG
    kit and russel.JPG
    108.5 KB · Views: 85
I put my 63-5 in the will never sell till I'm in the nursing home category. I really can't complain about it other than J-frame holsters for 3" barrels aren't common.

If I want target shooting type accuracy I go to my Browning Nomad - glass rod trigger and long sight radius.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MNO
I have the current model 63-5 8-shots with 3" barrel. It's a very nice gun, feels great and balances well. I think 8 shots in a compact frame size is a good compromise. The finish is very good and tolerances are tight. The cylinder especially is beautifully machined and finished.

It has been 100% flawless and reliable with all ammo. I have not had even a hint of sticky ejection, and not had a light strike.

I have one nit-pick and a general complaint. The nit-pick is that the fiber optic front sight was not bright at all. I've seen pictures of the 63-5 where the front sight really pops, but mine was quite dull. Not a huge deal, and I can replace it or put a glob of glow paint on it.

The general complaint was the heavy DA trigger. It wasn't monstrous or anything but was pretty stiff. I know this is required for reliable rimfire ignition, but this is one of the few Smiths I own that is a candidate for a trigger job. I do realize as a hiking, trapping or plinking gun it will most often be used in single action, and the SA trigger is quite good. So I may just let the DA trigger smooth out on its own over the years.

I also own a very fine 6" K-22 which is notably more accurate in my hands than the 63-5. This is to be expected. If you want the best accuracy, the 617 will easily top the 63-5. The benefit of the J-frame is the size and weight.

I can't think of any reason why you shouldn't be able to lighten the DA pull on your Model 63. I put a Wolf spring kit in mine many years ago and it has run flawlessly ever since. I can't honestly say I've never fired mine in single action mode; I might have many years ago, and have since forgotten doing so. I can say that for at least the last fifteen years, my Model 63 has only been fired double action, and that includes shooting multiple raccoons, possums, and other vermin around the house. :)
 
I bought an older used 63 several months ago. It came with the target stocks, which I consider a must. When I got it, it had a .101 rear sight blade on it and shot several inches high at 7 yards!! I ordered a .126 rear sight and received a .146 rear sight. So, I installed it, and it was right on. I have seen very few 63 around over the years. They are fun guns to shoot, so if you can latch on to that one for a reasonable price, that would be a good thing. :-)

That's interesting. I haven't ever measured my rear sight, but when I first purchased my Model 63, it shot low with the rear sight raised all the way to maximum elevation. Luckily, I had a gunsmith friend with a milling machine and it only took him a few minutes to mill a sufficient amount off the top of the front sight to clear up my elevation problems! :)
 
I have a 63,3" and a 617, 4". Had a 6" but sold it for the 4".
Have had zero problems with them. Both are great pistols.
The 617 is a lot larger and heavier and holds ten rounds.
I shoot the 617 better but if I was going to pack it around much, I'd get the 63.
You can't go wrong with these two.
 
OP- shoot them all if you can and see which one you like best, there is a difference in trigger between a J and a K frame. The GP100 is like the 617 a big relatively heavy gun (I have a 4" and it is a very nice and accurate gun). For me a 4" K-frame sized gun (S&W or Ruger) would fit the bill, but I am tall with larger hands so I don't mind the size. For CCW I carry a J frame fwiw.
 
I am fortunate to have a M17, M617 (6"), M34 (4"), M18, M317 & a M63. Both M317 and 63 have 3" barrels w the fiber optic front sight. Remainder have black partridge or blade sights. All are a joy to shoot. More precision available with the 617 & 17 due to heft and barrel length although black sights are difficult on some targets (black). 34 really tough to use for precision shooting with the blade but still fun. M18 with Baughman ramp is an easy shooter and is a good go between. M317 & 63 are a bit of a challenge for me to maintain good accuracy due to their barrel lengths although the front sights are easy to acquire. My wife loves the 63. I tend to shoot the 617 more if for no other reason it has 10 shots and there is less reloading. You can't make a bad decision here. Or go semi auto and get a PC M41 and put a red-dot sight on it if you really want a tack driver. Good luck in your decision. :)
 
I currently own a Md 63 that I bought new around 1979. And I've owned another that I no longer have. They are great guns, light, easy to carry, accurate and really cool! My only complaint regards the standard magna stocks. They just don't fill my hand enough, but they sure look good. A grip adapter or a set of aftermarket stocks is an easy fix. I also have a Md 17, Md 18 and several other .22s. But for outdoor plinking or small varmint control, I prefer the Md 63. The downside about not having one is how much it costs to get one. Prices seem to indicate this fine little gun has quite a following.

Me too! Except it was 1980. I agree on the grips, if you want some control try..

Pachmayr grip for Smith & Wesson J frame SQUARE BUTT ONLY frames | eBay

They helped me a lot. I hate the damn red ramp front sight.
 
Ron,

I can bring up one issue that no one else here mentioned - sticky extraction.

As soon as the cylinder heats up, you can't get the empty shells out w/o pushing them with a (cleaning) rod. Got this one around 1979-80.

I don't have this problem with my (K frame) Model 18 or 34.

Tried all the recommended cures, none worked.
 
Don't have a 63, but do have two 617s - 4" & 6". I shoot one or the other every week. They're great for warm up drills & training for the basics, such as sight acquisition & trigger pull, as they mimic the 686s in size, weight & balance.

Just getting into bullseye (precision) shooting & have been using the 6" at our informal, weekly bullseye matches. It's a bit heavy for me to shoot one handed - might be just the excuse I need to try the 17.

The only down side I've experience is they need ammo that shoots relatively clean, such as CCI. The tolerances on the chambers are pretty tight so they carbon up fast. With some of the dirtier ammo, such as Armscor & Remington, it will take less than 100 rounds before they become difficult to load & extract.

The 617s take a little longer to clean, but are well worth the effort.
 
It's a bit heavy for me to shoot one handed - might be just the excuse I need to try the 17.
I've had a couple of 617s, and while I want to like them, they are too heavy and worse, balanced way to muzzle heavy. I think the model 17, even the one with the 617-like underlug, are far better balanced, and lighter, too.

I sold my 617s after having them for only a couple of weeks. There is an exception: that funky "mountain gun" 4" 617 with the half ejection rod shroud I still have as it solves the balance problem of the 617 (still too heavy, but the balance makes it okay). However, they are extremely rare from what I can tell so they aren't worth pursuing (I'll not sell mine). I recommend a model 17 or 18. You'll fall in love and the 617 will languish in the safe. And if you like shiny, just get a nickel (or polished chrome) plated 17.
 
The 63 thread comes up regularly and it's been mentioned before that the 63 (and other J-frame revolvers) are not the easiest handguns for the average enthusiast to learn to shoot well. While they are surprisingly accurate, as evidenced by shooting from a benchrest, they require an experienced, much practiced shooter to realize the potential.

The size and weight of these guns are unforgiving aspects that quickly point out a shooter's lack of skill. For those willing to improve their handgun proficiency, the 63 and other J-frame guns are quite useful.

Just something worth considering before a purchase.
 
Sticky extraction: This will work.



attachment.php
Ron,

I can bring up one issue that no one else here mentioned - sticky extraction.

As soon as the cylinder heats up, you can't get the empty shells out w/o pushing them with a (cleaning) rod. Got this one around 1979-80.

I don't have this problem with my (K frame) Model 18 or 34.

Tried all the recommended cures, none worked.
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0153.jpg
    DSC_0153.jpg
    58.3 KB · Views: 393
Maybe there was, I don't know.

I do know there was a Model 60 J-frame .357 Magnum with a 5" barrel. Had one for a while; quite an awkward revolver to shoot well as I recall. I never really decided if it was the long, whippy barrel or the cartridge being too much for a small-framed gun.
 
I have the 3" M63 with FO front sight. The gun is great in every way except, as others have noted, the DA trigger pull is *heavy*. I did an Apex spring kit upgrade on it, EXCEPT for the extended firing pin. It has a sharper tip on it, and it was too often puncturing the brass instead of striking it, which meant the rounds wouldn't ignite. I put the factory firing pin back in, and voila - success! This thread is reminding me that I don't shoot it nearly often enough.

oXocy2C.jpg
 
Back
Top