S&W Model 66

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Check the pin ("locking bolt") at the front of the barrel lug. With the gun assembled, as you close the yoke slowly, you should see that pin protrude/walk out toward the muzzle, and then pop back in as everything closes.

If it protrudes and stays there, you might have a bent yoke. That's the only reason I can think of for the center pin to not seat as it should, in light of the fact that it seats with the yoke removed. Examine the movement of the locking bolt carefully as you open and close the cylinder.

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I just watched your video a second time. I think I'm right. If you look at about the 1:48 mark and at times afterward, you'll see that the locking bolt is protruding more than it should. It's quite clear.

Either your ejector rod is bent and you're positioning it the same way every time you close the action, which is extremely unlikely, or far more likely your yoke is bent.

To fix it, you'll need a "yoke alignment tool" available from several sources, and a small hammer with a plastic face, or some suitable tool to persuade the yoke into proper alignment.
 
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Have you tried removing the side plate and looking at what is going on with the action when you put the cylinder in by itself, versus with the yoke? Something isn't moving the bolt back when you close the cylinder. Will the cylinder lock closed when you have it on the yoke and close the gun? It may be as cleger says, the yoke is warped or bent just enough that the latch pin on back of the cylinder isn't dropping in the hole in the recoil shield, pushing the bolt back.
 
model 66 Video

Thank you for your input. The locking pin at front of barrel does move but as you say maybe not enough. I'm going to recheck movement without the yoke. If its bent I will probably source a new one from Numrich. I'm a rank amateur at this and have no way of checking the yoke. Also in Canada where I'm at, gun smiths are practically non existent any more.

Thanks again
michael
 
As Hair Trigger wrote, you will be able to visualise all of this with the side plate removed.

Simply remove it, and then install the cylinder with and without the yoke, as you did in your video. You will see that the center pin doesn't drop into the bore when the yoke is installed.

If you remove the thumbpiece and bolt with the side plate off, you may be able to discern just how far out of whack things are by looking through the hole from the back as you close the cylinder -- it might not be that far off.

All you need to do is bend the yoke back into position. To do it right, you ought to buy a tool like I mentioned above, but you might be able to eyeball it and get it through trial and error.

You might also find that you're able to get the center pin to seat by pressing harder on the back edge of the cylinder when closing. That's not the solution, but it will give an indication of how far you're out.

If you buy a replacement yoke, it might not match-up all that well at the front, where it's ground and finished to match the frame.
 
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The locking pin at front of barrel does move but as you say maybe not enough.

On mine, "enough" is roughly "all the way." It will return to the same position when the cylinder is closed as when it was "at rest" with the cylinder open.
 
I watched the video. Perhaps I am seeing things, but it seems that the center pin is pushed forward when the cylinder is held in the frame by the crane. I'm thinking there is a misalignment with crane, perhaps the crane or yoke are bent.
 
Also in Canada where I'm at, gun smiths are practically non existent any more.

I'm moderately surprised there are still M66's there.

If you do remove the side plate, do not pry it off, you can't do that without damage. Once you have the screws removed, hold the revolver horizontally with the side plate up, and using a plastic screwdriver handle or small plastic mallet, rap the grip frame sharply near the butt. The side plate will dislodge and then you can remove it. There will be a small tab at the top on the side plate, so set that end in first and hand press it in place when you replace it. Tighten the screws gradually to seat it.
 
Model 66

Okay thanks everybody, just took the side plate off, and the trigger, and the bolt. Only way to see what's going on. Every thing on the inside is working flawlessly. It should, I just rebuilt it. So installed yoke and cylinder, you are all right, the pin is a touch, just a touch mind you high and to the right when looking from behind the hammer. I have to try and source the right tool, I have an alignment pin coming from Brownells, that will probably take a couple weeks, so have to source the alignment bar. Can I make one? what diameter? How do you hold the yoke when aligning?
Thanks everybody
michael:)

I'm back again. After careful forethought and calibration of the wind, atmospheric pressure, length and strength of my right arm
I whacked that yoke with a very light wooden mallet. One strike is all it took. The gun is back together and working flawlessly. It's the thing to do when living without benefit of gun stores and gunsmiths.
Thanks again for all the help and advice

Michael and my Happy 66
 
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