S&W Performance Center-Master Revolver Package vs Combat Package: Which one?

[GuntherPrien]

Hi everyone,

I'm new to S&W revolvers (meaning my expertise in the mechanics of these great pieces of engineering is close to zero). This week I purchased 2 NIB revolvers from the local retailer. The revolvers are a 686-Plus, 3" barrel, .357 mag and a 629, 3" barrel, 44 mag. Both look beautiful, but I have noticed that is is much easier for me to pull the hammer in the 629 than in the 686. My questions are:

-Any reason why it is harder to pull the hammer on the 686?
-Would this affect accuracy?
-Should I send the 686 for either the Master Revolver Action Package or the Combat Revolver Package?
-The thumb piece in the 629 is somewhat loose and it moves side to side, should I send it back to S&W for repair? The 686 is solid as a rock, nothing moves or rattles.

I woul greatly appreciate any advise or recommendation,

Thanks,

GP

 

[deralte]

GP, welcome from North Carolina.

 

[GuntherPrien]

Thanks Deralte...

great to be here.
Hope I can learn a thing or two about revolvers!

GP

 

[S&W Oldtimer]

Welcome from Va.

 

[GuntherPrien]

Thanks...

good to be here.

 

[sbcman]

Hi everyone,

I'm new to S&W revolvers (meaning my expertise in the mechanics of these great pieces of engineering is close to zero). This week I purchased 2 NIB revolvers from the local retailer. The revolvers are a 686-Plus, 3" barrel, .357 mag and a 629, 3" barrel, 44 mag. Both look beautiful, but I have noticed that is is much easier for me to pull the hammer in the 629 than in the 686. My questions are:

-Any reason why it is harder to pull the hammer on the 686?
-Would this affect accuracy?
-Should I send the 686 for either the Master Revolver Action Package or the Combat Revolver Package?
-The thumb piece in the 629 is somewhat loose and it moves side to side, should I send it back to S&W for repair? The 686 is solid as a rock, nothing moves or rattles.

I woul greatly appreciate any advise or recommendation,

Thanks,

GP

Greetings!

To your question:

There are several reasons the trigger pull could be heavier- none of which we can really answer without handling them.

Yes, it can effect accuracy. This effect can be overcome through practice and training.

Neither- put a couple hundred rounds through the barrel and, if you into it, do a couple hundred more dryfires. At the end of this you'll probably see them smoothed out nicely.

I'm guessing you're talking about the cylinder latch. Hoss that screw down and make sure the latch is seated well. This is probably not a "send back in" issue.

 

[novalty]

Greetings from Maine. Welcome aboard!

 

[GuntherPrien]

Thanks Sbc...

I'll do that before I send it to S&WPC. Regarding the thumb piece (latch to open the chamber out) I hope I don't have to send it back, I'll call S&W tomorrow and we'll see what they say.
All I've done this wknd is read for hours about 686's & 629's trying to educate myself and admire these revolvers....so pretty they are. I'm looking at the "classic" model 27, reissued this year, it looks great.

Thanks everyone for the welcome words!

GP

 

[fyimo]

Welcome to the forum from Arkansas

 

[GuntherPrien]

Thank you...

guys

I really appreciate the welcoming here. As said above I'm a novice to revolvers and love to read all threads and discussions
regarding revolvers. I'm still to test fire either the 686 or 629.

GP

 

[OK Hog Shooter]

Hello the camp and welcome to the forum from central Oklahoma.

 

[MSgt G]

Welcome, GP, from Northwest Georgia!

 

[pawncop]

Welcome from Texas GuntherPrien. Great forum for all things S&W, have fun, learn lots, share what you know.

Good advice from sbcman - not a lot to offer additionally, other than to reinforce his suggestions.

If you are not satisfied, then send the 686 back, but I have learned to really work the action on a brand new revolver.