I have an XXL paw, and I have to concentrate to activate the grip safety before pulling the trigger. Feels a bit like being a contortionist with one hand. Simply not a "natural" act for me.
I'd rather collect the older ones, and if I had to fire from inside a jacket pocket I'd use a much newer hammerless .38 Special. for example a 442 or 642. I like the 642 but have not yet tried the much newer Performance Center version.
I have large "mitts" too, so on the older ones I keep the by-pass pin installed so the rear safety is defeated. I have the same issue with gripping it just right with my large hands to release the rear safety.
For whatever purpose the Hammerless S&W's were originally engineered, I feel sure that in that reasoning was to prevent the hammer from hanging up on a pocket draw and also to prevent someone who may try to take your gun in a grab motion, where a normal revolver the hammer could easily be "webbed" to prevent it from firing the hammerless will still fire.
I recommend using standard .38 Special HPs and not +P just for the control aspect as you will need all the help you need to stay on target.
All Chiefs and Centennials are "up close and personal" CCWs and perfect ( I think ) for that purpose.
In my older age here, I cheated, but just a little with a set of Crimson Trace Laser grips on my Ashland CST Model 60-1. I should have done that years ago. Some days my vision is a bit blurrier than normal from all the heart meds, so, that Crimson Trace was the correct choice for me.
Thanks to Mark Calzaretta (COLT_SAA) for buying a pair of Crimson Traces then coming over the house to install them on my 60-1
Wherever that dot is, if you hold it tight ... that's what you'll hit within a reasonable amount of recoil variance.