S&W Repair Service Questions....

[barneyc]

My M18-4 has a problem. The cylinder tends to hang slightly when I release it. It takes a little extra push and it opens fine. I've cleaned it well and that did not help. I suspect the problem is not serious but it just bugs me. The gun has less than 500 rounds through it but is out of warranty (1979 build). How's the repair quality of S&W? Anyone have a feel for recent turnaround times? Am I better off letting a local DFW gunsmith fix it?

I am obviously inexperienced in such matters and any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated!


Thanks!

Barney

 

[bwsmith2850]

This is my experience from last year. I'd send them to Smith again (until they run out of parts for the old guns).

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1961-1980/116927-good-service-s-w-repair.html

 

[DRYHEAT]

barneyc, I HIGHLY recommend S&W Performance Center for your M18-4.
I bought a trashed 1966 27-2 3.5" Utah Highway Patrol revolver for little $$. I didn't mind the rusty/missing finish, but the fact it was mechanically "challenged" made me send it to S&W's Performance Center for a make-over. New guts and a high polish blue have made the old trooper one of my favorite shooters!

Here is a before and after:

Not bad for an additional $250 to S&W.

 

[mm_chuimm]

I had a K22 that would hang up like that. So bad that could not open cylinder. Turned out to be a loose ejector rod.
Martin

 

[palmetto99]

It does sound like the ejector rod. I've had that happen with a couple of K frames. A local gun smith should be able to give you service.

 

[barneyc]

Wow, Driheat, if that gun shoots as good as it looks S&W did you some good!

Thanks! That's just the info I was looking for. I'm going to run it by a local gunsmith. If he can fix it quickly an inexpensively I'll have him do it, otherwise, off to S&W she goes!

B.

 

[bluetopper]

Try just screwing it in first. It may just be trying to back out.

Open it up and screw in the forward most tip.

Gunsmiths have their place, but.....?

 

[barneyc]

Thanks Parasite, but I tried that and she's tite as a tick. One thing I did notice just now is that the binding only occurs when the cylinder is rotated into certain positions. When the same three contiguous chambers are rotated into a certain position, the cylinder will always bind. When the other three are rotated into that position the cylinder always opens normally. Hmm. Suggests something might be bent to me, but I have looked at all the visable parts very carefully and they look straight.

 

[duckloads]

Twice on my M15-4, I had a "wire" from a cleaning brush break off and lodge itself inside the cylinder. This caused the cylinder to hang up like you describe.

I chucked my extractor up in a drill chuck real tight and unsrewed the extracor rod to clean the works.

 

[barneyc]

Well, I think I got her fixed. After reading Duckload's post I went back and recleaned the cylinder, star and extractor rod about 3 times. That seemed to help. Then I opened and closed the cylinder about 7.4 zillion times on each chamber. No more binding! She now opens just like my other Smith revolvers, including her twin brother, my dad's 18-2. Thanks for all the suggestions and comments about S&W's service. I'm thinking about a model 10 and it's good to know that I could have it rebuilt if necessary. Gonna check with them first before I buy.

B.

 

[Armyphotog]

I just got my M22-4 back from the S&W performance where kept it for 2 months while they reassembled it for me. Don't think they ever even shot it. I am having occassional hang ups with it. I am not pleased!

 

[H Richard]

Have you checked to see of the yoke locking screw (front side plate screw) may have inadvertently been swapped with the middle side plate screw? There is only a few thousandths difference in length and is easy to do.

 

[Armyphotog]

H Richard: Will have a look-see with my tired of eyes. Are you saying the shorter screw goes in the yoke position? I took it out and shot it again last week, and only locked up once. Maybe it just needs shooting? Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Philblack]

H Richard: Will have a look-see with my tired of eyes. Are you saying the shorter screw goes in the yoke position? I took it out and shot it again last week, and only locked up once. Maybe it just needs shooting? Thanks for the suggestion.

Not the shortest one, Armyphotog, the one right near the yoke screw... They look the same but their size is very slightly different.

Did you try to open your cylinder while there is no yoke screw on the revolver ? That could be a clue... If it opens easily then, it is the screw. Then some sand paper will fix it (very "gently" at the end of the screw). After all, you can find a new one at Brownells's for 2 bucks or so...