S & W service dept......"Don't clean 642 revolver with Hoppes"

I'll use CLP on my 442 and sniff Hoppe's #9 when I clean my Rugers.

A good compromise, actually. I should mention in regards to my earlier post that in my day in the Army, CLP/Breakfree was the standard issue stuff for everything from handguns to heavy machine guns and although Hoppe's is the best solvent in town, CLP will do it all and I'm a big fan of it. And it's easier than cleaning with one, then oiling down with another. But you still can't gargle with it like Ballistöl! :eek:
 
I have a 340SC with this problem. I wrote the factory about it, including pictures. I haven't heard back from them, but it I don't get satisfaction from them, I plan on having it coated by another vendor.
 
I bought a used 642 and it was messed up like some of you have described. I contacted S&W and they took it back on their dime and replaced the frame. What I got back was a totally new 642. Now after reading all the info posted here I continue to be somewhat concerned as to what exactly is safe to use to clean the 642? I suppose for now I will use the Mobil One approach.
 
...Now after reading all the info posted here I continue to be somewhat concerned as to what exactly is safe to use to clean the 642? I suppose for now I will use the Mobil One approach.

Why not just follow the advice of the folks who made it - S&W? If they say use Break-free, why wouldn't you? :rolleyes:
 
Another 'caveat emptor' - Hoppes #9's ammonia content can damage Melonite finishes - like the new Governor has. This is from a S&W CS rep in a call today. Is nothing sacred? I don't consider a firearm clean without the Hoppes #9 stench. Even at 63, I guess I am never too old to 'learn'. Hoppes 'Elite' is okay, according to the S&W CS guy.

Stainz
 
Looks like Breakfree or Gunzilla for me and just keep the Hoppes #9 around as a cologne. Wouldn't want to damage the 642 or Gov.
 
Hoppes Elite Not #9

Thanks for all the posts here. I took a different avenue and called Hoppes. Great customer service and they said #9 is not for all metals. They said their Hoppes Elite would be safe for cleaning the 642. They also suggested that if you ever get #9 on the 642 finish to blot it off. Do not rub or wipe the product into the metal finish.

I am so glad I found this thread before I used the Hoppes #9 on my 642.
 
I have used and will continue to use Hoppes #9 on my almost new 642. If my finish flakes or rubs off, well, so be it.

I guess that's why I prefer the good ol' Model 60 in 38 Spl. It's a hard gun to beat for all around everything. My 30+ year old Model 60 just keeps on keeping on.
 
Smith & Wesson is doing itself a great disservice by not specifying which cleaning liquids are safe for their clear coated line of handguns. Just a simple blurb like, "Use Mrs Green Machine Gun Solvent for Clear Coated Handguns." Is that so hard, or do they (S&W) like being trashed on gun forums for what has been a multi-year issue since they started this clear coat crappola?
 
Another 'caveat emptor' - Hoppes #9's ammonia content can damage Melonite finishes - like the new Governor has. This is from a S&W CS rep in a call today. Is nothing sacred? I don't consider a firearm clean without the Hoppes #9 stench. Even at 63, I guess I am never too old to 'learn'. Hoppes 'Elite' is okay, according to the S&W CS guy.

Stainz

Since melonite is not a "finish," but a metal treatment, I just cannot see how this is accurate. Melonite is a QPQ process and is apparently the same process as Tenifer used by Glock. There have been threads on this topic and indeed, the company that pioneered the QPQ process seems to own both trade names.

In any event, Melonite makes the steel hard and is not a covering or finish in the sense of blue, nickel, cerakote, NP3, etc.

If it helps at all, I have used nothing but Hoppes No. 9 on all guns, including the 642, since the beginning of my shooting, which is now more than 40 years ago. Since it is a solvent, not a lube, naturally, after brushing out the barrel, chamber or charge holes, and any other areas, Hoppes No. 9 is completely wiped off. This is followed by a light coat of Break Free CLP. I have never suffered ANY ill effects. On the other hand, I do not submerge, I do not let Hoppes No. 9 remain on any part longer than the few minutes it takes to clean. And, I do NOT clean after each shooting session, but only every so often. Lube, yes. Clean no. It just isn't needed with modern non-corrosive primers and ammo.

As to Hoppes No. 9, it has been well known for as long as I have been shooting that it is not to be allowed to stand for extended periods on nickel or other plated finishes, so that much is not news.
 
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In addition, S&W's manual states to never use it on *all* their guns. Is S&W really stating to not use what has to be the most popular gun solvent there is?

This is stupid beyond reason, IMHO. My dad, brother and I have been using Hoppe's #9 on our S&W blued revolvers for more than half a century with never a problem. I don't own, nor do I intend to own, any of the newer S&W handguns. So I guess I will just continue to use the good stuff to clean my revolvers, except maybe my one nickel plated Model 19-3.

Besides, who would want to be without the great smell of Hoppe's for any length of time? :)

Jack
 
the reasons not to buy this new stuff just keep piling up.
 
I use Hoppe's Elite, Breakfree, and Ballistol on my 637. Great gun, but the clear coat on the frame is poor. I plan to send mine to APW Cogan for a matte hard chrome on the frame when the S&W clear coat wears off. I think the hard chrome will match the SS barrel and cylinder better than the current clear coat finish.
 
I also had one of these 442s, but like an idiot traded it off a few months back for a pristine Highway Patrolman.

Oh yeah! Very idiotic! :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

If I ever had a Model 442, I would trade it for "pristine" HP in a heartbeat. Not that there is anything wrong with the 442. Not saying that at all.
JP
 
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