I inherited this 38 S&W Special CTG. It was my grandfather's and I am trying to figure out how old it is. Any info on figuring out the age would be much appreciated. I'm also thinking about sending it to S&W to have it restored. If anyone has experience with having S&W restore a gun please let me know how it went.
S&W Special CTG
- Thread starter ecrotts21
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It dates to the mid-1920's. I'm sure others will be along shortly to narrow it down.
S&W doesn't work on these old guns anymore. You could send it off to Fords and probably pay around $500 for a refinish, but I'd leave it alone. Cool old gun!
S&W doesn't work on these old guns anymore. You could send it off to Fords and probably pay around $500 for a refinish, but I'd leave it alone. Cool old gun!
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heeter3
Member
It was your grandfather's what a great memory and great gun to have. Dont change a thing shoot it and leave it exactly like he left it to you.
John in AK
Member
Frankly, for being roughly a century old, your grandfather's S&W is in rather nice shape, and should be left alone to be enjoyed as-is.
It's not exactly financially sound to restore such a common revolver, as you could find a much nicer one without much difficulty; Expect to pay $3000 or more for a proper 'restoration.' Simply having it replated would almost certainly disappoint.
If you must make it 'shiny,' consider simply polishing it with an ammonia-free metal polish to even out the finish and leave it at that.
It's not exactly financially sound to restore such a common revolver, as you could find a much nicer one without much difficulty; Expect to pay $3000 or more for a proper 'restoration.' Simply having it replated would almost certainly disappoint.
If you must make it 'shiny,' consider simply polishing it with an ammonia-free metal polish to even out the finish and leave it at that.
481720 should be about around 1924, maybe 1923. Numbers reached about 530000 in late 1925.
DWalt
Member
Your M&P almost certainly shipped in 1923 or 1924 based upon its SN. As others have said, a good restoration job can be very expensive, and won't increase (and may even reduce) the value of the gun. It is very seldom a good idea. One of the problems with nickel plated guns is that when areas of plating start showing wear or corrosion it makes the whole gun look shabby. Finish wear on a blued gun is not nearly as obvious. But of course, a less than perfect finish on an old revolver has absolutely no effect on how well it functions. Best to leave it alone. Those S&W revolvers from the 1920s were very well made.
This is one of my plated M&Ps of nearly the same age and condition. The plating is factory original.
This is one of my plated M&Ps of nearly the same age and condition. The plating is factory original.
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Here are after and before pictures of one of mine that is about the same age. The only thing I did was polish it with Flitz.
Clean it up and shoot it....leave it to your grandkids with a letter about your grandad....4 generations apart and they will know about the man. How many of us know anything about our great-great grandads?
Robert
Clean it up and shoot it....leave it to your grandkids with a letter about your grandad....4 generations apart and they will know about the man. How many of us know anything about our great-great grandads?
Robert
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DWalt
Member
This talk about plating brings up something I have thought about several times. Has anyone ever heard of Dalic (or brush) plating? It is a type of electroplating of various metals which does not use a plating tank. Rather, it uses a small sponge or brush saturated with plating solution in contact with an anode. The assembly is held against the object to be plated, and DC current (possibly from a battery) is run through it, depositing plating on that object. Seems to me it might be used for cleaning up the plating some old worn nickel plated guns without going to a lot of trouble. I know kits for doing it are available.
Would be interesting to try on an older piece that you just wanted to dress up...i wonder what kind of result one would get...
Robert
I've seen the brush electroplating done, the appearance was not impressive...I don't think there's any way to make the surface smooth...
...Ben
...Ben
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welcome to the forum...I have an M&P from 1921,same config...in about that shape, probably not that nice!...I used mothers mag wheel polish on it, and carefully cleaned her up nice! I like to shoot mild non jacket ammo, and have fun..have it checked if you're not familiar with them and shoot! I would not have it refinished
Welcome to the forum.
You have a very decent ".38 Military and Police" heirloom that shoots the .38 S&W Special CTG. It still has most of it's original factory nickel plating which is what maintains its value.
All you need to do is remove the black tarnish and polish the nickel to have it look 100% better. Just polish it with Flitz, Semi-chrome, or Mother's Mag Wheel polish; whichever is easier to find at your local hardware or auto parts store.
You have a very decent ".38 Military and Police" heirloom that shoots the .38 S&W Special CTG. It still has most of it's original factory nickel plating which is what maintains its value.
All you need to do is remove the black tarnish and polish the nickel to have it look 100% better. Just polish it with Flitz, Semi-chrome, or Mother's Mag Wheel polish; whichever is easier to find at your local hardware or auto parts store.
I'd polish it up with some Mother's Mag Polish and a felt wheel in a Dremel tool. Here are a couple of before and after photos of one that I did that way. Costs next to nothing and leaves the original finish intact. Turned out pretty good if I do say so myself.
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ol777gunnerz
Member
Flitz
I second the motion to use Flitz, much easier & less expensive than any other solutions posted on here. I have used it on a few of mine, a lot older than yours. It will polish up the intact finish as well as bring the flaked areas closer in color to the rest of the gun. All while leaving the original condition of the revolver for quite some time to come, also polish with Renaissance wax to protect the new finish, it is not cheap for a small can, but a lil dab goes a long way for a lasting shine. Shown is my 2nd Model S&W single shot, first image is before Flitz & Ren Wax, second image shows how it evened the finished & blended in dark spotting.
I second the motion to use Flitz, much easier & less expensive than any other solutions posted on here. I have used it on a few of mine, a lot older than yours. It will polish up the intact finish as well as bring the flaked areas closer in color to the rest of the gun. All while leaving the original condition of the revolver for quite some time to come, also polish with Renaissance wax to protect the new finish, it is not cheap for a small can, but a lil dab goes a long way for a lasting shine. Shown is my 2nd Model S&W single shot, first image is before Flitz & Ren Wax, second image shows how it evened the finished & blended in dark spotting.
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DGNY
Member
A warm Welcome to you ecrotts21, and the handsome Smith & Wesson which you have inherited. The K frame M&P model has been an icon for over 120 years, and deservedly so. If you have any questions about the mechanism or its operation, you might check with a local gunsmith if you have one to consult.
By 1919, the M&P cylinders were heat treated for greater strength and durability. So, your revolver is quite capable of digesting all standard modern 38 Special ammunition that you might care to find and use in that revolver. Some believe, myself included, that jacketed ammo is a bit harder on the barrel, and that lead bullet varieties are easier for it to digest. Of course, seeking accuracy and a great deal of fun, using all proper safety protocols.
In case you have not heard of it, the Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson, 4th edition, (SCSW 4th) is a notable book that will give you much overall history of the many Smith & Wesson models over the years, including that handsome nickel plated piece now residing with you.
All best to you.
By 1919, the M&P cylinders were heat treated for greater strength and durability. So, your revolver is quite capable of digesting all standard modern 38 Special ammunition that you might care to find and use in that revolver. Some believe, myself included, that jacketed ammo is a bit harder on the barrel, and that lead bullet varieties are easier for it to digest. Of course, seeking accuracy and a great deal of fun, using all proper safety protocols.
In case you have not heard of it, the Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson, 4th edition, (SCSW 4th) is a notable book that will give you much overall history of the many Smith & Wesson models over the years, including that handsome nickel plated piece now residing with you.
All best to you.
LMLarsen
Member
For what it's worth, "CTG" is S&W's abbreviation for "cartridge." It's not part of the model name.
38 spl Ctg.
This is a 38M&P that left he factory in June of 1921. No address,
Factory nickel finish. Not sure if grips are original or not. They look a bit too good to be original. No markings, of any kind, on right grip panel. Right side of barrel is marked "38 S&W special ctg."
I've taken it to the range a few times. It get a lot of looks.
This is a 38M&P that left he factory in June of 1921. No address,
Factory nickel finish. Not sure if grips are original or not. They look a bit too good to be original. No markings, of any kind, on right grip panel. Right side of barrel is marked "38 S&W special ctg."
I've taken it to the range a few times. It get a lot of looks.
