S&W stainless finish repair

[xfarfuldog]

I run across some stainless Smiths at times that are a little rough. What can be used, or how do you clean these up? I know of a local gun store that has a 66 no dash. It even has the stainless rear sight. It is however rough. Has not been fired much but has been carried a lot and knocked around. He wants too much for it but I would kind of like to "rescue it" and put it back into good condition.

I also see a lot of the 39/ 59 etc series that have not been taken care of. I do not want a polished like nickel finish. I want the guns to look like they were when new. Use a dremel tool or ??

I think a lot of trashed Smiths could be brought back and appreciated.

Thanks,

 

[jpwhel]

If you do a search on the forum this has been discussed before and the before and after pictures are amazing. I use Mothers mag polish (available at any auto parts store) and an old cotton tee shirt. There are very light abrasives in the mag polish. It takes a few hours of polishing and buffing but the results are good. I do this on my SS guns even after shooting as part of the cleaning routine.

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

Files, stones, sandpaper, elbow grease & and Mothers.
From beater to jewel in several hours.
You can do the final polish on a pedestal buffer, (which I use) but mothers by hand is the next best option.
Just remember, flat surfaces MUST stay flat as you restore the finish.
I forgot to add, any laser markings must be covered up or they will be easily removed.

Just rubbed this 629-4 4" with mothers...

 

[socal s&w]

I have had very good luck using the Scotch-Brite pads, both the green and light grey colors. I have heard that the white is actually better, but have not tried it because I couldn't find any.

I take everything off that's not part of the refinish and very lightly run the heavier of the two pads over the gun using long soft strokes, trying to keep moving with the 'grain', if you really look at the finish there is definitely a grain to it.

Once I have taken the majors out of it, I then use the lighter pad, again using long soft strokes with the grain.

Once I'm satisfied with the look, I then use Mother's to put a very light sheen to it, not shiny or glossy, but very much like the factory finish.

DO NOT use steel wool as it will embed itself in the grain and can/will rust. It won't come out.

Give us a before and after pic or two.

Hope this helps!

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

+1 For a working gun the medium gray scotchbrite is all I use.

It depends if you want the finger prints to show or not...

The 629 pictured above is notorious for fingerprints. The oil also smears all over the place, but for a picture it looks nice.

 

[dmar]

Woodworker's supply stores (e.g., Woodcrafters) are a good source for Scotchbrite pads... And '500 Magnum Nut,' that 629 looks awesome!

 

[Bullseye Smith]

Like noted above on the flat surface, don't use sand paper less than 600. 1000 to 1500 does the best, 600 for the bad nicks and keep it flat. Plus you need to go with the grain of the meatl, it will tell you right fast if you are going the wrong way. Cleaning one up is the fun of it to me, hope you enjoy doing it.

 

[xfarfuldog]

Thanks for all your input. When I think of all the stainless guns at great prices that I have overlooked!! I could have bought a "rough" TSW for a pretty penny. I am going back to the local dealer and see if I can sweet talk him out of the 66 with stainless rear sight...

Thanks,

 

[E L Iverson]

I recently stripped a 66 for a complete tune up. While apart (being a knifemaker) I sanded from 600 down to 2000 Then I buffed it. At this point I had a mirror finish but also had random scratches that sanded out with 2000. I then rebuffed with a new wheel and compound and had more of the scratches appear. It seems after sanding I have produced a surface that is extremely fragile. Could I have sanded through some type of work hardened top layer? Now Whatever I do seems to look less than attractive. Any ideas? Thanks

 

[john traveler]

I've been known to hand and machine polish stainless steel guns, but no longer do so. I certainly have nothing against a beautiful polished finish, but it is less practical, especially if it is holstered or exposed to the elements.

S&W applies a passivation treatment to it's guns after machining and polishing. The passivation bath is for removing the microscopic bits left imbedded in the machined surfaces by the alloy steel cutters. Without this treatment, stainless steel is subject to corrosion starting anywhere the tooling leaves residue. Passivation baths contain among other things, mild organic citric acid. If you notice, guns new out of the box have sort of a hazy surface appearance until repeatedly rubbed down or lubricated. Polishing removes this surface treatment and is what makes the surface show scuffs and scratches easier.