S&W Victory model serial number lookup

"new" to me victory

new today LGS, probably paid too much @ 300. looks like very early production, 4" barrel, serial #V371xx, ALL numers match, even the smooth wood grips..38 special . no military markings, has loop on butt, finish looks parkerized. the hammer and trigger arent case hardned, they look parkerized also. my camera is broken right now, so no pics avail. i looked for the "S" stamp for the improved transfer bar, the only "S" i found was inside the cylinder crane. is this maybe it? bore/chambers bright/shiny, action very smooth DA/SA, TINY bit of loosness in cylinder back to front. lockup pretty tight on cylinder rotation, as tight as my 1970s mdl 60 chief. looks like 1942 production, without any military markings was it probably NOT issued to the army or navy??? is this called a "K" frame, i am looking for some more comfortable pachmayer grips. i really appreciate every ones help in advance. JON P
 
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S&W Victory

Hello, I was wondering what you could tell me about what I think is a victory model that I found in one of my grandfathers tool chests. It sn is v 382389. It's a 4 inch barrel and it's blued. On the barrel it has a crown and under that the letters bnp. Also on the barrel it's marked 3 1/2 tons. With the numbers 38 and .767. On the other side of the barrel is what looks like an hour glass on ether end and 38 S&W ctg in between them. Thanks.
 
Jeda8 said:
Hello, I was wondering what you could tell me about what I think is a victory model that I found in one of my grandfathers tool chests. It sn is v 382389. It's a 4 inch barrel and it's blued. On the barrel it has a crown and under that the letters bnp. Also on the barrel it's marked 3 1/2 tons. With the numbers 38 and .767. On the other side of the barrel is what looks like an hour glass on ether end and 38 S&W ctg in between them. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Your Victory-model M&P likely shipped around August 1943. The markings indicate it is the British version (.38/200) in .38 S&W caliber. If the barrel length is 4", there is a high probability that the original barrel may have been shortened (most .38/200s had 5" barrels), and also that the cylinder chambers may have been bored to accept the.38 S&W Special cartridge. You may wish to see if that is the case. Converted British .38/200 M&P revolvers do not have the value of those in original condition, but it will probably shoot OK.
 
Thank you for the info. I have been looking at it and the pictures of other guns in the forum and have noticed several things about it. It does not have all the fine wording on the top of the barrel. Also no lanyard hole. I also found on the left side down where the trigger guard meets the frame what looks to be two crossed swords with the letters m then what is either a 3 or s or 8 and then a b in each joint. How can I check to see if it's been rechanbered for 38special? I have found an new old stock barrel in 38 special and an k cylinder in 38 special. Will the k cylinder work? The finish is bad so I was thinking about converting it and refinishing it. It nice and tight gun just too bad I didn't know it been sitting and rusting for 30 years. Thanks.
 
"How can I check to see if it's been rechanbered for 38special? I have found an new old stock barrel in 38 special and an k cylinder in 38 special. Will the k cylinder work?"

The easiest way is to get a .38 Special cartridge and see if it can be chambered completely. The frame could be fitted with a K-cylinder and a new barrel. But you might not have to skill to get those fitted properly if you have no previous successful experience in doing such work.
 
Hi guys,
Need help from the pros here!
Got a "cigar" box project. Own a bunch of S&W revolvers, but never had a Victory model.
Got this gun from a friend, delivered in a cigar box as parts. Here goes....

4" in 38spl. 5-screw,finish appears to be paint or black-blued, but not a true bluing job. Serial # V 357453. Some parts are missing. Grips, rebound, and various springs, which I assume I can get from Gun Parts Corp. later.
So what do I have here? Year manufactured. Finish? delivered to who and why.
Thanks for your help guys.
Jess
 
DWalt said:
"How can I check to see if it's been rechanbered for 38special? I have found an new old stock barrel in 38 special and an k cylinder in 38 special. Will the k cylinder work?"

The easiest way is to get a .38 Special cartridge and see if it can be chambered completely. The frame could be fitted with a K-cylinder and a new barrel. But you might not have to skill to get those fitted properly if you have no previous successful experience in doing such work.
Click to expand...

Yes a 38 special drops right in. I can also see the ridge where the cylinder has been bored out. If I just change out the barrel for a 38 special and keep the cylinder would it shoot better? Or would it make much difference or should I change out the cylinder too? I have not been able to find a V cylinder in 38 special. It's got to be refinished. Thanks
 
"If I just change out the barrel for a 38 special and keep the cylinder would it shoot better? Or would it make much difference or should I change out the cylinder too?"

It's a somewhat unsettled question as to whether S&W used the same bore diameter barrels for both the British and US Victory .38 models.

In any event, my experience has been that .357-.358" bullets seem to work OK in .38 S&W barrels. And if you use hollow-base wadcutter bullets, those will expand to fill any .38 S&W bore, just like a Minie ball. Unless the bore is rusted out, etc., I would not replace it. Ditto for the cylinder. Even though bored out, a .38 S&W chamber is not unsafe to use with .38 Special cartridges. The fired cases may bulge due to the slight diameter difference, and cases may or may not have a tendency to stick. You have to shoot them to find out. You can also always fire .38 S&W ammunition in a bored-out chamber if you choose.
 
DWalt said:
"If I just change out the barrel for a 38 special and keep the cylinder would it shoot better? Or would it make much difference or should I change out the cylinder too?"

It's a somewhat unsettled question as to whether S&W used the same bore diameter barrels for both the British and US Victory .38 models.

In any event, my experience has been that .357-.358" bullets seem to work OK in .38 S&W barrels. And if you use hollow-base wadcutter bullets, those will expand to fill any .38 S&W bore, just like a Minie ball. Unless the bore is rusted out, etc., I would not replace it. Ditto for the cylinder. Even though bored out, a .38 S&W chamber is not unsafe to use with .38 Special cartridges. The fired cases may bulge due to the slight diameter difference, and cases may or may not have a tendency to stick. You have to shoot them to find out. You can also always fire .38 S&W ammunition in a bored-out chamber if you choose.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your thoughts and info. I think I'm going to just refinish it and keep it for its history.
 
Victory Information Please

I have recently been left a Victory model and would love any information you can provide. It is stamped US PROPERTY GHD, Serial # is V693980 Where the serial # appears on the bottom of the barrel, it is followed by the letter P. Bbl is stamped .38 S & W special CTG. The grips are checkered walnut with S&W emblems on both sides. Are you able to tell me when this gun was shipped and to whom? Thank you so much for you help, you guys are a wealth of knowledge!
 
Yours shipped, probably, in September or October 1944. Original Victory grips would be smooth wood, not checkered, and without S&W medallions - so your grip panels are not original. It would be impossible to say where it went after it left the factory - likely to some military depot. It should have a 4" barrel and a phosphate finish. Some good pictures might reveal other interesting details.
 
Thank you!

DWalt, Thank you so much for the great info. Sorry to hear that the grips have been changed, but I still sure love the gun! I did find another marking on it, there is a letter "P" stamped on the left side, just above and to the right of the cylinder. The gun looks well used, and is certainly dinged up a bit, but overall I am really impressed with how well it cleaned up for a gun that is almost 70 years old. Here's a pic as you requested.
 

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Grip Panel Markings

As you predicted, the right grip panel is stamped with a series of numbers. there are two rows of three #'s and the rows are offset from each other. The top row is 161 and the lower row is 269. Mean anything to you?
 
I'm sorry DWalt, I didn't read your reply very well. I followed the link you suggested and read about the markings I've found. That site is a wealth of info, thank you.
 
I have inherited a WWII S&W Victory 38 Special. It was issued to my wife's grandfather.
V589250
Has US property GHD
Smooth Walnut Grips
P V 589250 on the Cylinder
4" barrel
Parkerized finish.
P on frame right behind the Top strap.
Any information would be helpful

Thanks.
 
My Father-in-law got it from his father, and he gave it to me. He said is father was a pilot. I'm pretty sure it's all original. it needs a good cleaning.
 
I'll have to find out. I thought he was a Marine Pilot.

How does one get a letter for authenticity?
 
Marine pilots would have carried Navy revolvers. It is worthwhile to get a factory letter. See: http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...4_750001_750051_757825_-1_757814_757812_image

The letter will establish that the revolver was shipped to the Navy and will provide the exact date it left the factory. It won't tell you anything beyond that, such as to whom it was issued. The letter costs $50, but it is worth it if/when you ever decide to sell it.
 
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I have not a "what" question, but rather a "why". I am new to Victory Models and have read through this thread thoroughly. I may have missed the answer but here goes:

One of my Victories appears to be a typical Lend Lease with US Property and the GHD inspector's mark. As a Lend Lease item, it was expected or hoped that the revolver would eventually be returned to the United States. So I completely understand that mark. But if the revolver were going to the Allies then why did a US Army inspector need to affix his stamp as well?

Thanks in advance for answering such a basic question.

Doby Pilgrim
Santa Fe

PS
I have been lurking here off and on for years but only recently joined. Thanks also for such a great resource.
 
"As a Lend Lease item, it was expected or hoped that the revolver would eventually be returned to the United States"

There was probably no such expectation. For example, there were a great many .303 Enfield bolt action rifles made by Savage during the war, also with US Property stampings, for use by the British. I'm sure there was never any intent that such rifles would be returned to the US. In the same way, why would the US want a return of revolvers chambered in a non-US military cartridge? The Lend-Lease Act (1941) was primarily an act of subterfuge by President Roosevelt so that the US could maintain its neutrality status as it was legally not giving weapons to the British (and later other countries). However L-L continued all during the war, and the US property stampings continued even after the USA became an active combatant after December 7, 1941. I'm not exactly sure why this happened. Maybe someone else knows the reason for the continuation of L-L.

"But if the revolver were going to the Allies then why did a US Army inspector need to affix his stamp as well?"

Likely because armaments were being manufactured under US government procurement contracts and the armaments were technically the property of the USA. Virtually all items made under government contracts must be accepted by government insectors.
 
Yes, Roosevelt got around the Congressional budget process by using Lend Lease, so that we could funnel money without particular scrutiny into British and Commonwealth armies before we got into the war. Later it was just political expedience since we were Allies anyway.

It just seems the explanation might lie in the fact that the stamps were made, the inspecting officer was there, so let the production line roll. I guess I was hoping futilely for a more romantic explanation. At any rate I am happy to have my two. The Commonwealth spec revolver looks like it saw the Elephant, but my .38 Special 4 incher seems unissued and unfired. Neat guns and they are a nice contrast to each other.
Thanks very much for your time. Your thread and all your work here is a blessing to many. Me included.

Doby
DWalt said:
"As a Lend Lease item, it was expected or hoped that the revolver would eventually be returned to the United States"

There was probably no such expectation. For example, there were a great many .303 Enfield bolt action rifles made by Savage during the war, also with US Property stampings, for use by the British. I'm sure there was never any intent that such rifles would be returned to the US. In the same way, why would the US want a return of revolvers chambered in a non-US military cartridge? The Lend-Lease Act (1941) was primarily an act of subterfuge by President Roosevelt so that the US could maintain its neutrality status as it was legally not giving weapons to the British (and later other countries). However L-L continued all during the war, and the US property stampings continued even after the USA became an active combatant after December 7, 1941. I'm not exactly sure why this happened. Maybe someone else knows the reason for the continuation of L-L.

"But if the revolver were going to the Allies then why did a US Army inspector need to affix his stamp as well?"

Likely because armaments were being manufactured under US government procurement contracts and the armaments were technically the property of the USA. Virtually all items made under government contracts must be accepted by government insectors.
Click to expand...
 
Smith and Wesson V

Hi guys I have a Smith and Wesson Victory -well some mitr argue that-
It is a 38 sw serial v326201 it is rough but it is also very cool. All parts are matching # including the grips.
It underwent a FTR in 53 I believe. There is a 33 next to an up looking arrow along with the FTR markings
Has crown on frame under made in USA
P on butt
Big 101 in grip crotch
ord bomb U.S. property and G.H.D.
side ways NF on barrel -I think-on barrel next to frame not sure what mark is next to that then 3.8' ,767 ' 3.5 tons
has I believe crowns behind flutes in cylinder
feel free to add it data base
 
ALSO can yall help to identify it ? I think it is a 42 lend lease to Australia. Can yall help me out?
Thanks
Miles
 
S&W Victory

Hi guys, thanks in advance for your help. I have a S&W Victory revolver, with smooth walnut grip, 4" barrel, 38 S&W special, with lanyard loop. Serial # V160225. On the opposite side of the serial number is what looks like a flaming bomb. Any ideas what the year of production would be for this? Thanks again.
 
Hello PT:

According to the Victory Model Database your Victory likely shipped from the factory in the November, 1942 to February, 1943 time frame.

Hope that info is helpful to you.
 
PTat said:
Hi guys, thanks in advance for your help. I have a S&W Victory revolver, with smooth walnut grip, 4" barrel, 38 S&W special, with lanyard loop. Serial # V160225. On the opposite side of the serial number is what looks like a flaming bomb. Any ideas what the year of production would be for this? Thanks again.
Click to expand...

If yours has no U. S. Property markings, it was likely made for stateside civilian use - police, defense plant guards, etc. Late 1942 is a reasonable shipping period.
 
victory model serial number look up

I have a victory model with sn # V174347 with N.Y.M.I.612
engraved on the left side of the frame. What year was it manufactured and what does N.Y.M.I.612 denote ? I would appreciate any info you can provide me
Thanks
Wayne G E
 
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