S&W Victory model serial number lookup

Victory model serial numbers

I have a Navy marked Victory model in the gray dull finish. The weapon is extremely tight and has a trigger that is fantastic. The weapon does not appear to have fired many rounds as the cylinder and timing is perfect. The serial number is V246255, anyone know when it was made? This gun will go to my grandson upon my death. I would like to get documentation on this weapon for his benefit. Who would I contact to get the serial number confirmed and to legitimize this gun as a real Victory model? Thank you in advance
 
S&W Victory serial number and markings help plz

I bought a S&W victory .38 special ctg with a 4 inch barrel and what appears to be a parkerized finish. Would someone PLEASE help me with a few Q's, as follows:

Approximate date?- SN is V62017
Under the checkered (medallions) wood grips there are the letters "R-SB" - the number 678 is over it. There are two "X" on the bottom of the butt under the grips. What do these mean?
There is half a round thing with what looks like a piece of a wing on the bottom of the butt to the left of the lanyad hole - the lanyard ring is missing. I'm wondering if the grips are original (I suspect not). photo(16).jpg

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The thing beside the lanyard hole is the "flaming bomb" symbol for the US Army ordinance Corps. This is a standard marking for Victories.
This would have had smooth walnut service grips.
 
Thanks!!
Would the flaming bomb be on every Victory?
It appears based on other posts that this is an early issue.
Would you happen to know how I figure out the letters under the grips?

I appreciate your time and effort. Don:)
 
Thanks!!
Would the flaming bomb be on every Victory?
It appears based on other posts that this is an early issue.
Would you happen to know how I figure out the letters under the grips?

I appreciate your time and effort. Don:)

The shipping date on yours would likely have been about August 1942. Unfortunately, your stocks (grips) are not original and are from a much later period, and possibly may not even be authentic S&W products. Most Victories had the Ordnance bomb, but Navy-marked Victories often did not. I notice you did not provide any markings. These would have had a "United States Property" stamping on the top strap if intended for military use, or possibly "U.S. NAVY". If unmarked, it was intended for civilian use by law enforcement or defense plant security guards.

You might look for some authentic smooth stocks and a replacement lanyard loop. Those are available.
 
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I ordered a lanyard ring and am looking for grips. Thanks
On the frame, there are the letters "R-SB"
There are no letters indicating army or navy or any lend lease type writing....THANKS A MILLION
 
Haunt the gun auction sites and eBay for grips - they turn up. eBay also usually has lanyard loops listed, but you already have one. The DSC Victories for civilian use are not bad to have. Not that many of them were shipped as compared to the military models.
 
Would someone PLEASE help me with a few Q's, as follows:
Under the checkered (medallions) wood grips there are the letters "R-SB" - the number 678 is over it. There are two "X" on the bottom of the butt under the grips. What do these mean?
There is half a round thing with what looks like a piece of a wing on the bottom of the butt to the left of the lanyad hole - the lanyard ring is missing. I'm wondering if the grips are original (I suspect not).

Donald:

Your Victory has been refinished, and perhaps more than once. The R-SB marking is one that is applied by the S&W factory when it refinishes a gun. The RSB usually refers to "Refinish Standard Blue". The date of the refinish was June, 1978 (678). The stocks that are on it now may have been added at that time. The originals were, of course, smooth walnut.

What is odd is that the current finish is a phosphate type, a form of what is generically referred to today as "parkerizing" (lower case p is deliberate). S&W was not set up to provide a parkerized finish after the end of WW2. However, when the Model 76 SMGs came out in the late 1960s they had a parkerized type of finish. I believe that this finishing was out-sourced by the factory. Perhaps your revolver was refinished in this manner.

The X markings are of no consequence.

Hope this information helps you.
 
That helps tremendously!! I had no clue. I paid 200 bucks for it and I have already put the new lanyard ring on. The bore is like a mirror so if it isn't worth much- it will be fun to shoot. I really appreciate the time and effort you guys put into the replies! Don
 
"new" to me victory

new today LGS, probably paid too much @ 300. looks like very early production, 4" barrel, serial #V371xx, ALL numers match, even the smooth wood grips..38 special . no military markings, has loop on butt, finish looks parkerized. the hammer and trigger arent case hardned, they look parkerized also. my camera is broken right now, so no pics avail. i looked for the "S" stamp for the improved transfer bar, the only "S" i found was inside the cylinder crane. is this maybe it? bore/chambers bright/shiny, action very smooth DA/SA, TINY bit of loosness in cylinder back to front. lockup pretty tight on cylinder rotation, as tight as my 1970s mdl 60 chief. looks like 1942 production, without any military markings was it probably NOT issued to the army or navy??? is this called a "K" frame, i am looking for some more comfortable pachmayer grips. i really appreciate every ones help in advance. JON P
 
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S&W Victory

Hello, I was wondering what you could tell me about what I think is a victory model that I found in one of my grandfathers tool chests. It sn is v 382389. It's a 4 inch barrel and it's blued. On the barrel it has a crown and under that the letters bnp. Also on the barrel it's marked 3 1/2 tons. With the numbers 38 and .767. On the other side of the barrel is what looks like an hour glass on ether end and 38 S&W ctg in between them. Thanks.
 
Hello, I was wondering what you could tell me about what I think is a victory model that I found in one of my grandfathers tool chests. It sn is v 382389. It's a 4 inch barrel and it's blued. On the barrel it has a crown and under that the letters bnp. Also on the barrel it's marked 3 1/2 tons. With the numbers 38 and .767. On the other side of the barrel is what looks like an hour glass on ether end and 38 S&W ctg in between them. Thanks.

Your Victory-model M&P likely shipped around August 1943. The markings indicate it is the British version (.38/200) in .38 S&W caliber. If the barrel length is 4", there is a high probability that the original barrel may have been shortened (most .38/200s had 5" barrels), and also that the cylinder chambers may have been bored to accept the.38 S&W Special cartridge. You may wish to see if that is the case. Converted British .38/200 M&P revolvers do not have the value of those in original condition, but it will probably shoot OK.
 
Thank you for the info. I have been looking at it and the pictures of other guns in the forum and have noticed several things about it. It does not have all the fine wording on the top of the barrel. Also no lanyard hole. I also found on the left side down where the trigger guard meets the frame what looks to be two crossed swords with the letters m then what is either a 3 or s or 8 and then a b in each joint. How can I check to see if it's been rechanbered for 38special? I have found an new old stock barrel in 38 special and an k cylinder in 38 special. Will the k cylinder work? The finish is bad so I was thinking about converting it and refinishing it. It nice and tight gun just too bad I didn't know it been sitting and rusting for 30 years. Thanks.
 
"How can I check to see if it's been rechanbered for 38special? I have found an new old stock barrel in 38 special and an k cylinder in 38 special. Will the k cylinder work?"

The easiest way is to get a .38 Special cartridge and see if it can be chambered completely. The frame could be fitted with a K-cylinder and a new barrel. But you might not have to skill to get those fitted properly if you have no previous successful experience in doing such work.
 
Hi guys,
Need help from the pros here!
Got a "cigar" box project. Own a bunch of S&W revolvers, but never had a Victory model.
Got this gun from a friend, delivered in a cigar box as parts. Here goes....

4" in 38spl. 5-screw,finish appears to be paint or black-blued, but not a true bluing job. Serial # V 357453. Some parts are missing. Grips, rebound, and various springs, which I assume I can get from Gun Parts Corp. later.
So what do I have here? Year manufactured. Finish? delivered to who and why.
Thanks for your help guys.
Jess
 
"How can I check to see if it's been rechanbered for 38special? I have found an new old stock barrel in 38 special and an k cylinder in 38 special. Will the k cylinder work?"

The easiest way is to get a .38 Special cartridge and see if it can be chambered completely. The frame could be fitted with a K-cylinder and a new barrel. But you might not have to skill to get those fitted properly if you have no previous successful experience in doing such work.

Yes a 38 special drops right in. I can also see the ridge where the cylinder has been bored out. If I just change out the barrel for a 38 special and keep the cylinder would it shoot better? Or would it make much difference or should I change out the cylinder too? I have not been able to find a V cylinder in 38 special. It's got to be refinished. Thanks
 
"If I just change out the barrel for a 38 special and keep the cylinder would it shoot better? Or would it make much difference or should I change out the cylinder too?"

It's a somewhat unsettled question as to whether S&W used the same bore diameter barrels for both the British and US Victory .38 models.

In any event, my experience has been that .357-.358" bullets seem to work OK in .38 S&W barrels. And if you use hollow-base wadcutter bullets, those will expand to fill any .38 S&W bore, just like a Minie ball. Unless the bore is rusted out, etc., I would not replace it. Ditto for the cylinder. Even though bored out, a .38 S&W chamber is not unsafe to use with .38 Special cartridges. The fired cases may bulge due to the slight diameter difference, and cases may or may not have a tendency to stick. You have to shoot them to find out. You can also always fire .38 S&W ammunition in a bored-out chamber if you choose.
 
"If I just change out the barrel for a 38 special and keep the cylinder would it shoot better? Or would it make much difference or should I change out the cylinder too?"

It's a somewhat unsettled question as to whether S&W used the same bore diameter barrels for both the British and US Victory .38 models.

In any event, my experience has been that .357-.358" bullets seem to work OK in .38 S&W barrels. And if you use hollow-base wadcutter bullets, those will expand to fill any .38 S&W bore, just like a Minie ball. Unless the bore is rusted out, etc., I would not replace it. Ditto for the cylinder. Even though bored out, a .38 S&W chamber is not unsafe to use with .38 Special cartridges. The fired cases may bulge due to the slight diameter difference, and cases may or may not have a tendency to stick. You have to shoot them to find out. You can also always fire .38 S&W ammunition in a bored-out chamber if you choose.

Thanks for your thoughts and info. I think I'm going to just refinish it and keep it for its history.
 
Victory Information Please

I have recently been left a Victory model and would love any information you can provide. It is stamped US PROPERTY GHD, Serial # is V693980 Where the serial # appears on the bottom of the barrel, it is followed by the letter P. Bbl is stamped .38 S & W special CTG. The grips are checkered walnut with S&W emblems on both sides. Are you able to tell me when this gun was shipped and to whom? Thank you so much for you help, you guys are a wealth of knowledge!
 
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