S&W Yoke Cylinder lube question

[The Norseman]

I am curious what the Jerry Kuhnhausen S&W shop manual
says about oiling the Cylinder Yoke.

I shoot every week. After shooting my S&W's
I do a quick overview of the Revolver, and spin
the Cylinder with my fingers spinning the extractor rod.

With that amount of shooting, on about the fifth trip
(I am a very conservative shooter 5-10rnds) I have noticed
that the Cylinder turns some what sluggish.

I want the Cylinder to spin and spin as freely as possible
due to our cold weather and to reduce wear on parts.

When carefully taking the Cylinder and Yoke off the
Revolver, there is the culprit, the oil is sludge darkish
color. I clean off the sludge and very very lightly
re-oil. I use only Full Synthetic Motor Oil.

I do not think it is wise not the oil the Yoke, for
wear reasons.

Thank you in advance for your reply.

 

[chief38]

I will give you what has worked for me for 40 years. While others might not agree, it has been done to every single Revolver I own every single time I shoot it - and that is what keeps it in perfect condition.

Every time I return from the Range I remove the Cylinder and clean it with a Bronze Brush and Cotton Patches in the conventional way using Rig #2 which is a very light product quite similar to Remoil. After cleaning the Cylinder I fill up the Extractor Rod Tunnel (middle of the Cylinder) with the product and carefully move it in and out 5 or 6 times. You need to do this carefully as the ER is not being guided and you want to push it at straight as possible. Then just dump the fluid into a clean rag so you can see what comes out. Most of the time it comes out clean, but depending on round count that day, sometimes it's grungy and I repeat the process. Just shake over a rag a few times and that will leave the mechanism clean, lubed and protected against rust. DO NOT do this with a thicker oil!! Remoil and Rig #2 evaporate the carrier quickly leaving protection behind and so there is no liquid left to taint ammunition as long as you give it a few minutes to evaporate. You could also give a blast from an Air Compressor to hurry it up. The only two products I use for this process are Rig #2 Oil (available in 4.5 oz can for $5.99 at MidwayUSA) or Remoil available anywhere. Most other oils are too thick and will attract gunk - defeating the whole idea!

It has NEVER loosened up the ER unintentionally, it has never cased a problem in 40 years, and works like a charm an keeps the Cylinder spinning free, non gummy and removes all unburnt powder residue from the many Reloads I use.

No one ever told me to do this - it's just one of the processes I found out over the years that REALLY works WELL!! Anyone who is new to guns and seeks my advise gets the same from me.

 

[bigggbbruce]

I shoot every week.

With that amount of shooting, on about the fifth trip
I have noticed that the Cylinder turns some what sluggish.

Clean after 4 trips.

 

[ContinentalOp]

I don't remove the cylinder for cleaning after every range session. I do lube the yoke, usually a small drop or two at the front where it enters the cylinder and rotating the cylinder to help spread the oil, based on the recommendation of Grant Cunningham. I do remove the cylinder every year or two, and what I've typically found is that I probably could've gone another year or two without removing it and been just fine. FWIW, I've been using Gun Butter lube.

 

[The Norseman]

Yoke maintenance

I don't remove the cylinder for cleaning after every range session. I do lube the yoke, usually a small drop or two at the front where it enters the cylinder and rotating the cylinder to help spread the oil, based on the recommendation of Grant Cunningham. I do remove the cylinder every year or two, and what I've typically found is that I probably could've gone another year or two without removing it and been just fine. FWIW, I've been using Gun Butter lube.

I have tried the small drop of oil in front of Cylinder, but
spinning the Cylinder got worse. Appeared to spread the
sludge around.

Also I think the tolerances are so good between the Cylinder
and Yoke there, that any thin film of sludge easily becomes
tacky/sticky slowing rotation down.

My Goal also is to avoid repeated removal of the Yoke screw,
Yoke and Cylinder. The more you keep taking apart, the
more there is a chance of bumming up the Yoke Screw or
scratching/damaging something.

I also very carefully use a Makeup Remover Round Patch
oil wipe down procedure I have perfected over the years.
Revolvers don't need to be perfectly cleaned each time.

I think Guns have more damage done to them by well
intentioned people trying to clean them.

 

[ContinentalOp]

Also I think the tolerances are so good between the Cylinder
and Yoke there, that any thin film of sludge easily becomes
tacky/sticky slowing rotation down.

Maybe check out some dry film lubes? I know there are some good ones out there, but I've never used them. Hopefully some other members can chime in with some recommendations.

 

[armorer951]

Sounds like you already have your cleaning plan and procedure down pat.....so I'm not sure why you are seeking suggestions from us for the care of your revolver.

Periodic cleaning and relubrication of the component parts, including the yoke barrel and cylinder assembly will be necessary and cannot be avoided as long as the gun is being used for the purpose the manufacturer intended. Atomized shooting debris will find it's way inside the yoke and cylinder assembly and will need to be removed in order for the gun to continue to function properly.

Chief38's procedure seems minimally invasive and will work fine for flushing out the old oil and debris. Smith and Wesson recommends lubricating the bosses on the yoke barrel with a light oil after cleaning. This small amount of oil assists with limiting metal to metal contact and helps prevent wear on the components, in addition to helping the assembly rotate as required. Hence the name "revolver". Because I'm a cheapskate, I use ATF in this location, but any light oil would be fine. Keep in mind heavy oils, grease, etc. can collect dirt and debris, and can adversly affect function in cold weather, depending on their viscosity rating.

With respect to your comments about damaging/scratching the gun during cleaning I would only say that when the proper tools are selected and used with care, removal of the components for cleaning does not cause damage. In fact, after 40+ years experience as an armorer, I can say with confidence that more damage is caused by neglect than regular care and cleaning.

To answer your specific question about the Shop Manual, as far as I know, Kuhnhausen does not recommend a specific lubricant for the yoke barrel.

 

[Laketime]

For almost 40 yrs now,I have completely cleaned every gun I shoot.I only use hoppes #9 and remington oil.I have never felt a need to try anything else.

 

[dfariswheel]

Dry lubes don't work well in many/most gun applications.
Dry lubes may work in magazines but not well at all with moving parts.
This is why the military doesn't use dry lubes in weapons.

I definitely would not use a dry lube in the yoke.

As above, you have to deep clean the cylinder and yoke assembly from time to time, but not as often as you might think.
In past years most revolver assemblies were never cleaned and they still worked fine after many years.

Personally, on my own and customer guns I used CLP Breakfree on the yoke or crane shaft.
CLP keeps fouling soft so it can be pushed out of the way of moving parts.
A dry lube will allow fouling to harden and cause binding.

You will notice CLP and fouling being pushed out the front and rear of the cylinder, under the ejector.
That area must be kept wiped or brushed dry OFTEN, to prevent powder particles and grit from getting trapped under the ejector and causing cylinder binding.

Depending on how often you shoot and the type of ammo, you may only need a deep clean once a year.
Between cleanings simply put a small drop of CLP Breakfree in the front of the cylinder where the yoke or crane shaft enters and spin the cylinder to distribute it.
CLP, like many oils will creep into all areas of the assembly.
Wipe off any fouling and lube that oozes out the front of the cylinder and keep it clean and dry under the ejector.

 

[H Richard]

That kind of oil is too thick in cold temperatures. I use (sparingly) a drop or two of Break Free. It's worked fine for over 30+ years and I used to compete in freezing temps here in IL in the winter.

 

[The Norseman]

S&W Yoke

I could have sworn I read somewhere not
to oil the Cylinder Yoke. Just keep it clean.

I would think a showing of a light sheen of oil
on a clean finger would be sufficient.

Maybe I should try that, just wipe with the oil
residue on my fingers.

I have never had this problem with my traditional
Single Action Revolvers.

 

[jmclfrsh]

I remove the yoke, cylinder and grips every time I clean my revolvers.

To avoid scratching, hold your thumb against the side of your screwdriver (I use a hollow-ground Wheeler's screwdriver and bit kit) as you turn it to keep it from slipping off and marring something.

You do not have to overtighten the yoke screw when reassembling. Just bottom the screw out and a slight downward pressure turn a smidge and you'll be fine. About 1/16th of a turn probably.

I like to wipe the yoke clean and run my brush through the cylinder with it in my hand to reduce the amount of fore and aft sliding of the cylinder against the yoke with each cleaning stroke. I figure it gets enough hammering every time the gun is fired.

Once you in do it a couple of times, it's very easy to do.

I also run a patch through the cylinder yoke tunnel on the end of a plastic patch tool to clean it. If it gets stuck in there I just insert the end of the extractor rod into the hole and push it back out.

A fingertip with a drop of Remoil on the outside of the yoke tube then is enough to lube it. Also, cleaning under the extractor star is a given, too.

Just make sure (after removing the yoke screw and setting the revolver back on its right side) to rotate the cylinder out and hold it in your right hand then pull the yoke straight out to the left with your left hand to clear the frame and lift both items straight up away from the frame so you don't bang the items together.

I like to make sure the extractor rod has not loosened while at the range, and this is checked at the same time.

Youtube has some excellent Midway USA Larry Potterfield gunsmithing videos that will show you exactly how it's done. That is how I learned the correct way to do it.

 

[yeti]

Spray it out with a good CLP. I just flush it out with BreakFree CLP spray and then use compressed air.
I will take it all apart maybe once a year or so for a deep clean, but I don't take the cylinder off the crane except for that.

 

[Pisgah]

Motor oil is appropriate for motors, not for revolvers. Use a light gun oil like BreakFree or RemOil. Don't be obsessive about removing the yoke and cylinder at every cleaning; in fact, don't do it more than two times a year, three if you shoot thousands of rounds. At every cleaning, put a drop of oil on the ejector rod and work it back and forth. Put another drop right at the seam at the gas check in front of the cylinder and spin the cylinder to distribute it. That's all you should ever need.

 

[crsides]

This reminds me of my concealed carry class instructor who told the class that todays oils are remarkable. If you rub them on the outside of the revolver, they will penetrate the metal sufficiently to lube the inside working parts. I woke up when he said that and was going to challenge him at the end of the class. As I looked around the room at those newbies in the class, I am thinking, hmmm, he just told them to keep their fingers out of the action, AND to wipe the down the outside to prevent rust.

Charlie

 

[CH4]

Clean and lube with FP10 or Mobile 1 5-20 after each range session.