I finally found an unfired 27-2 made in 1978. I paid a fair price for it, but it doesn't have a presentation case or anything. That's OK with me, because I'm going to shoot it occasionally. No closet queens for me. I lucked out and my buddy hooked me up with some 38 spl wadcutters for target practice. I know they'll require a good barrel cleaning to get the lead out but I've been told they're safe for the longevity of the barrel. However, what's a good recommendation for a 357 hunting/defense round? Fusion makes a bonded copper bullet, but I'm hesitant to shoot a modern copper bullet out of my nice 27. Ammo is super scarce , but when i find a few boxes of suitable 357 magnum I'm going to buy them. Are there any care and maintenance considerations for a mostly glock owner such as myself? How about a holster that will gentle on the shiny bluing? Also, off topic but I just finished Smith and Wesson Hand Guns by Roy McHenry and it was great!
Safe ammo for a 27-2
- Thread starter Adupuy
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Well, assuming that all is well with your 27-2 now before -ANY- ammo goes through it, understand that you are holding (arguably... and we do!) the largest and most stout .357 Magnum that Smith & Wesson ever made.
As long as your ammo is .38 Special, .38 Special+P or .357 Magnum from a SAAMI source, then there is no ammo that will hurt your revolver, assuming the ammo is exactly what it is advertised to be.
Unfortunately, there exists no holster that I have ever heard of that won't, over time and use, leave marks on the gorgeous polished finish of a Model 27. However if your revolver isn't mint/unfired/NIB, then don't sweat the small things and carry it, shoot it, LOVE IT and don't worry about it.
As long as your ammo is .38 Special, .38 Special+P or .357 Magnum from a SAAMI source, then there is no ammo that will hurt your revolver, assuming the ammo is exactly what it is advertised to be.
Unfortunately, there exists no holster that I have ever heard of that won't, over time and use, leave marks on the gorgeous polished finish of a Model 27. However if your revolver isn't mint/unfired/NIB, then don't sweat the small things and carry it, shoot it, LOVE IT and don't worry about it.
You have bought the finest, IMNSHO, .357 revolver ever built. As above, no sane factory loaded round will damage it. BTW, what barrel length is it?
My favorite holster is the lined Model 29 made by Safariland. Not sure they make them anymore, but I'll bought several off of eBay. Look for ones marked S&W LG FR (large frame). Make sure you buy a leather holster. Safariland started making holsters out of some sort of synthetic a while back and they don't hold up as well as real old fashioned cowhide.
My favorite holster is the lined Model 29 made by Safariland. Not sure they make them anymore, but I'll bought several off of eBay. Look for ones marked S&W LG FR (large frame). Make sure you buy a leather holster. Safariland started making holsters out of some sort of synthetic a while back and they don't hold up as well as real old fashioned cowhide.
I certainly agree on the Safariland model 29, but also consider the model 25. The 29 is a thumb break and the model 25 is the hammer strap version. Find on that is lined with elk suade. If you have a 5 inch barrel, it will be difficult to find either one. The 6, 6 1/2 inch version is the most common, and maybe four inch.
Unless you personally know the source, never use reloaded ammunition and that includes wadcutter target ammo.
Jack Flash
Member
Since the M27 has adjustable sights, any bullet weight you settle on is fine. I personally like 158 grain .357 Magnum jacketed soft points or hollow points. Some very knowledgeable people like the higher velocity you get from 110 grain or 125 grain bullets.
+1. But when it comes to factory ammo, your 27-2 will digest anything just fine. Get out there and enjoy it!
Agreed. Hard to beat the standard 158-gr magnum loads from any of the major ammo manufacturers (Remington, Winchester, etc).
Jacketed hollow points or jacketed soft points, they will get the job done.
Hair Trigger
US Veteran
It will eat anything commercial you care to feed it, and ask for seconds. I have your model's 'ugly' sister, the M28, and I've run some close-to-max loads through it without issues. If you shoot a lot of .38 Spl loads, what you watch for is a crust buildup in the chamber from the burned powder. all revolvers will develop it if not cleaned frequently, but in a magnum revolver, this crust line forms at a shorter distance from the breech, which can make seating full-length .357 loads difficult. The .357 case is around 0.135" longer than a .38 Spl case. Cleaning after each shooting usually prevents this. Modern copper jacketed bullets cause no harm to the barrel at all.
Kydex is a NO for a holster for it, nylon is also a no, unless it has a padded cloth lining. leather is better and traditional, but will also cause wear after a lot of in and out use. Custom saddlers who make holsters will line them if so ordered, which is a plus. Whatever you get, don't store the gun in the holster, they all retain moisture. get a silicone-impregnated gun sock if you want something to keep it in while in the safe, or hang it by a holder that uses a rod in the barrel.
Thanks for the replies! All useful info. It's a 6 inch barrel. I wish I could find the holster maker that i used for my 4506 leather holster. Unfortunately he seems to have shut down. One more question. What's the best tool to use to clean the cylinder where the bullets are seated? Will the bore brush suffice?
If you have a proper fitting solid tip screwdriver or bits that you can use to carefully remove the most forward screw on the right side of the revolver, taking this screw out will allow you to remove the yoke and with it, the cylinder will come off the yoke.
I personally believe that it is better to pull the cylinder from the revolver rather than put frenetic forward energy in to scrubbing chambers while the cylinder is mounted.
Others may disagree.
I personally believe that it is better to pull the cylinder from the revolver rather than put frenetic forward energy in to scrubbing chambers while the cylinder is mounted.
Others may disagree.
I agree with all the above. The 27 can more than handle any commercially loaded 357 ammo, I prefer 158 grain jacketed hollow points myself. As for a holster, any quality lined leather should work, but all will eventually wear the bluing. How about posting a few pics?
Take a serious look at lobogunleather.com.....outstanding product with reasonable pricing and very short wait times.
Have 4 of their holsters and am very pleaded.
Randy
PS. Your 27 will safely handle any available .357 mag. ammo with NO problems. Be not concerned with copper jacketed projectiles......
Have 4 of their holsters and am very pleaded.
Randy
PS. Your 27 will safely handle any available .357 mag. ammo with NO problems. Be not concerned with copper jacketed projectiles......
Absolutely I agree. There's a GREAT older S and W armorer on YouTube that explains that. Most YouTube tutorials are awful but he's great. I was more asking what particular tool would be best for cleaning the inside of the cylinders.
As soon as my FFL receives it I will post pics!
BigBill
Absent Comrade
The s&w can handle Cor-bon ammo? I'm reluctant to shoot full house loads from the s&w in 357?
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I keep my worn out .44/.45 caliber brushes for the purpose of scrubbing out cylinder bores...
...Ben
