Satin Finish Grips & Stain

Joined
Feb 26, 2013
Messages
1,613
Reaction score
2,009
Location
Oklahoma City, OK
I have a so-so pair of frame football targets that I want to refinish. Usually I soak in acetone, sand with grey scotchbright and finish with true oil to achieve a factory appearance. For this set I want to try to get more of a deep red look, like a mahogany, and a satin finish. Back when I was refinishing stocks on C&R rifles I used Rite Dye and alchohol after stripping and sanding, then followed up with paste wax. I had good luck with this on numerous SKS, Mosin, M14, and Garand stocks. The checkering on the N football targets is what creates the challenge and makes he hesitant to just do the same on these stock. They arent great but I sure dont want to ruin them.

Any suggestions on staining to a mahohany color and getting to a matte or satin finish?
 
Register to hide this ad
I would dye the wood first. Then apply several coats of tru oil. For a matte finish, just go over lightly with 0000 steel wool.

For the checkered areas, just apply a thin coat of tru oil, then dab off excess with a rag.
 
I have on occasion had to refinish revolver grips.

My method was to stain using Tandy water-based leather dye.
Leather dyes penetrate instantly and give true colors.
You can thin them so you don't stain too dark, too fast, and it's easy to blend to get the color and shade you want.

You can also use Fiebing's Solvent-based dyes, but these MUST be thinned well with the special solvent or it stains way too dark with the first coat.
A color like Cordovan, which is a red-brown may be just what you're looking for.

Another option is one of the solvent or water based wood stains from Brownell's. Some of these give the old "Winchester Red" or "Pre-1964 Red" finish American gun makers used back in the old days.

After staining, I used Minwax Polyurethane satin finish or a flat finish.
Satin, when properly mixed gives a more or less "egg shell" luster, flat is properly mixed gives a true flat finish.

I thinned the first coat of poly with about 40% paint thinner to get good penetration, then after the first coat I thinned about 5% to improve brushing.
Depending on how I wanted the grips to look, 3 coats was usually about right, with light sanding between coats.
The last coat I thinned the finish after REALLY mixing it well and sprayed on a finish coat with an airbrush for a very even, consistent final finish.

Done right with proper drying time between coats, poly gives a very durable, attractive finish, and it's usually faster then most other finishes, especially oil based finishes.
Leather dye works extremely well, far better then RIT fabric dye, and you get better, truer colors.

Brownell's:

CLASSIC SPIRIT STAINS | Brownells
English Red is more red than Pre-64 Red.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top