School me on reloading .45 Colt
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It's one of the easiest and best calibers to reload. It's my second favorite. The 45acp is my all time favorite.
The 45 Colt is a super accurate caliber capable of a wide range of loadings, depending on the gun of course.
Every reloader should reload the 45 Colt.
The 45 Colt is a super accurate caliber capable of a wide range of loadings, depending on the gun of course.
Every reloader should reload the 45 Colt.
I think it's the easiest straight wall case due to it's size. Pretty easy to hang onto. I load a 255gr. Keith bullet over 5.5gr. of Titegroup. Really nice accurate easy shooting load in all my guns. The big caution with this powder is that it's like a drop in the bucket when it comes to case capacity. You want to be cautious of a double charge.
JohnK
US Veteran
I charge 50, or more cases, before seating. Visually check powder level in EACH case, with a small flash light.
I have never used any powder, than Unique. Some say it doesn't measure well, but I have had no problem.
250-255 gr. lead:
8.0 grs. 800 fps
8.5 grs. 850 fps
9.0 grs. 900 fps
I have never used any powder, than Unique. Some say it doesn't measure well, but I have had no problem.
250-255 gr. lead:
8.0 grs. 800 fps
8.5 grs. 850 fps
9.0 grs. 900 fps
Virginia John
Member
You may want to consider using a roll crimp vs. taper.
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Even with carbide dies, it's a good idea to lubricate .45 Colt cases before resizing. Larger diameter cases have more surface area, hence friction, and the case rims have very little overhang.
If you load lead bullets, which tend to be a little larger than jacketed bullets (.452" v .451"), consider using RCBS Cowboy dies. They work the case less than a standard die, and leave little or no bulge when the bullet is seated.
.45 Colt cases tend to be thin walled, easily buckled. I prefer to seat and crimp in separate operations. You can do this with the same die by backing off the die during seating, but it's better to have separate dies. I use the "Cowboy" set for seating, and a Redding Progressive Crimp die for the roll crimp.
I generally use hard-cast RNFP bullets from Oregon Trails. They feed smoothly in carbines and look more "traditional" than semi-wadcutters.
For what it's worth, there weren't any .45 Colt rifles during the peak "Cowboy" years - 1865-1885. The Colt patent didn't run out until 1892, so most lever guns were chambered in .44-40 or .32-20. Smith revolvers used the same bullets, but in a shorter Schofield case.
If you load lead bullets, which tend to be a little larger than jacketed bullets (.452" v .451"), consider using RCBS Cowboy dies. They work the case less than a standard die, and leave little or no bulge when the bullet is seated.
.45 Colt cases tend to be thin walled, easily buckled. I prefer to seat and crimp in separate operations. You can do this with the same die by backing off the die during seating, but it's better to have separate dies. I use the "Cowboy" set for seating, and a Redding Progressive Crimp die for the roll crimp.
I generally use hard-cast RNFP bullets from Oregon Trails. They feed smoothly in carbines and look more "traditional" than semi-wadcutters.
For what it's worth, there weren't any .45 Colt rifles during the peak "Cowboy" years - 1865-1885. The Colt patent didn't run out until 1892, so most lever guns were chambered in .44-40 or .32-20. Smith revolvers used the same bullets, but in a shorter Schofield case.
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MyDads38
Member
I only load 45 Colt occasionally for a buddy of mine, for a Henry Golden rifle. A very accurate and fun round to shoot in handguns or carbines. Standard 3 die set of dies, very easy cartridge to reload! 
DWalt
Member
I have always loaded .45 Colt with .45 ACP dies. With one change from normal. I deprime separately because I do not full-length resize, only about halfway to avoid working the brass unnecessarily. I use only .452 lead bullets and light loads.
Large cases like the .45 Colt and the .44 Magnum cases are easier to handle than small cases. While I reload .32 ACP, it's more difficult to do because the cases are so small.
Large cases like the .45 Colt and the .44 Magnum cases are easier to handle than small cases. While I reload .32 ACP, it's more difficult to do because the cases are so small.
IMNHO, it's very easy to reload, but not so easy to get good results. I have a Blackhawk convertible and an SAA. Neither of them shoot well with cast bullet reloads. For me, it's a love/hate relationship. I love the guns and the cartridge, but hate the performance. Of course, I suppose.... it could be the shooter that's failing. The proverbial nut securing the grip.
Just my 20 m$ . . . .
I agree that it is an easy case to reload. My favorite is a cast swc and 7 or 8 grains of Unique.
Some of the problems come from the SAAMI specs that are all over the place. Frequently case diameter when resized is too small for chamber diameter resulting in shorter case life and inconsistent case expansion at the base. This can effect accuracy but in general reduces case life. Easier to deal with in a rifle than a revolver. Ruger spec-ed their cylinders so that you might have 3 different diameters in your cylinder. Mine on the 2 Blackhawks I have owned have all been less than .450", not a great recipe for accuracy with a .452" barrel. There are fixes, a lot depends on whether you are concerned at accuracy at 7 yards or 70 yards.
gwpercle
Member
It can be a pain...depends on the gun , throat dimensions and barrel dimensions. Colt SAA's had some miss matched throats and barrels that would have you pulling out your hair. Things varied from .451 to .455. If the throats and barrel dimensions are close , the only thing to watch is the huge case. Reloading dies and expander buttons can be all over the place also. Double charges with some powders can be done.
If the dimensions for bullets , throat, barrel, and dies all jive it's not a problem at all.
One of the least problematic rounds to load for is a S&W in 41 Magnum. The guns chambers, throats , barrels bullets and loading dies are all correctly dimensioned , reloading for it is a breeze.
Gary
If the dimensions for bullets , throat, barrel, and dies all jive it's not a problem at all.
One of the least problematic rounds to load for is a S&W in 41 Magnum. The guns chambers, throats , barrels bullets and loading dies are all correctly dimensioned , reloading for it is a breeze.
Gary
ontargetagain
Member
45 Colt is simple and straight forward. Cases are easy to handle and there are plenty of good powders to use. I have shot 200gr SWC's as well as 255 Keith style bullets.
The caliber itself is a classic and you will enjoy it!
Do you have specific concerns about it?
Karl
The caliber itself is a classic and you will enjoy it!
Do you have specific concerns about it?
Karl
cowboy4evr
Member
I started reloading the 45 LC using the Lee Classic Loader Kits ( pound it all together with a hammer ) and they shot just fine . I later bought the LEE 45 LC dies for my Lee single stage press . THat was yrs ago , just finished reloading another 100 rounds using the same dies last week .
People often blame the caliber , the bullets , the powder etc for inaccuracy . It's usually none of the above ? It's the internal dimensions of the handgun that are not correct . Reaming out the cylinder throats sometimes isn't enough . Is there a " choke " where the barrel threads onto the frame caused by over torquing the barrel to the frame to index the front sight . Machine marks inside the barrel can cause leading . Where they " roll " stamped the markings on the side of the barrel can / will cause a flat spot in the barrel . All these things need to be checked to accurately shoot cast bullets .
You don't have to take it to a gun smith to check on these things and you don't have to have a gun smith correct them . Veral Smith @ LBT Molds sells a little hand book called " Jacketed Performance with Cast Bullets " . It explains in detail how to check for these things and how to correct them , easily but with patience .
People often blame the caliber , the bullets , the powder etc for inaccuracy . It's usually none of the above ? It's the internal dimensions of the handgun that are not correct . Reaming out the cylinder throats sometimes isn't enough . Is there a " choke " where the barrel threads onto the frame caused by over torquing the barrel to the frame to index the front sight . Machine marks inside the barrel can cause leading . Where they " roll " stamped the markings on the side of the barrel can / will cause a flat spot in the barrel . All these things need to be checked to accurately shoot cast bullets .
You don't have to take it to a gun smith to check on these things and you don't have to have a gun smith correct them . Veral Smith @ LBT Molds sells a little hand book called " Jacketed Performance with Cast Bullets " . It explains in detail how to check for these things and how to correct them , easily but with patience .
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Ivan the Butcher
Member
My "light" cowboy loads are 200 RNFP over 6.7 WW231 with any standard large pistol primer = 775ish feet per second. With any light load a taper crimp is fine and is easier on the brass. DO NOT flare the case mouth too much, that and over crimping kill brass more often than hot loads.
Where the bullet and the rifling touch is called the bearing surface. The 255 grain conical bullet, the 250 Keith tip/SWC, and the 200-220 RNFP are all about the same bearing surface. That is why they all shoot well, so choose lead bullet to meet you need, they all will be accurate. Try for sized bullets .001 larger than your bore, if the throat allows it. Except for "Magnum" loads, soft lead should be fine, if it isn't, there is most likely a size issue.
Ivan
Where the bullet and the rifling touch is called the bearing surface. The 255 grain conical bullet, the 250 Keith tip/SWC, and the 200-220 RNFP are all about the same bearing surface. That is why they all shoot well, so choose lead bullet to meet you need, they all will be accurate. Try for sized bullets .001 larger than your bore, if the throat allows it. Except for "Magnum" loads, soft lead should be fine, if it isn't, there is most likely a size issue.
Ivan
Pisgah
Member
I'll put it a bit stronger -- don't even consider a taper crimp. With the .45 Colt, it's roll crimp all the way.
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The degree of crimp is very easy to overdo and accuracy may suffer as a result. Taper crimp or roll crimp doesn't matter as long as it's not overdone and the bullet doesn't move under recoil.
It may take a little experimentation (group shooting at 25 yards) to find the best crimp, but it's worth the effort. Usually, a minimal crimp will provide good ignition and best accuracy.
I've found cast bullets larger than .452" are generally more accurate, but .452" are certainly worth trying.
It may take a little experimentation (group shooting at 25 yards) to find the best crimp, but it's worth the effort. Usually, a minimal crimp will provide good ignition and best accuracy.
I've found cast bullets larger than .452" are generally more accurate, but .452" are certainly worth trying.
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DWalt
Member
I do not crimp - just enough to remove the slightly belled mouth. My loads are light, so even un-crimped bullets do not back out under recoil.
Qc Pistolero
Member
Your question made me smile.'***w bad is the .45 to reload?''The only bad point about it is you'll get addicted!Look at it like at an overgrown .38Spl.It's that easy to reload for.And much more fun to shoot!
Qc
Qc
USSR
Member
Not necessarily. Should you decide to use some .45 ACP bullets sans crimp groove, then a taper crimp is appropriate. Just loaded up and shot some today.
Don
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