Scotch-Brite pads to freshen bead blast 4516-1 ??

[Doc1500]

I have a 4516 - 1, want to clean up the frame. Has anybody use Scotch-Brite pads to to clean up and brighten bead blast ???

 

[THEmodelof1989]

Doesn't sound like it will work well without scratching the finish. Scotch bright pads should really only be used on your dishes.

 

[03hemi]

Don't do it unless you want a brushed look.

 

[GeoJelly]

Check out HorizontalMike’s post and link in the thread below. I didn’t realize that crushed walnut media would do such a good job of evening out (and removing rust) on steel. I have always hesitated getting a cheapo air compressor because of the hazards of using glass beads – but his post and a video in his link have convinced me otherwise. I don’t think you have to use a $300 air compressor ...

SS revolvers: Bringing back that original factory look...

 

[Doc1500]

Check out HorizontalMike’s post and link in the thread below. I didn’t realize that crushed walnut media would do such a good job of evening out (and removing rust) on steel. I have always hesitated getting a cheapo air compressor because of the hazards of using glass beads – but his post and a video in his link have convinced me otherwise. I don’t think you have to use a $300 air compressor ...

SS revolvers: Bringing back that original factory look...

That's thread is on revolvers mine is a semi with bead blasting, just wanted to maybe use Scotch-Brite pads to brighten it up.
EDIT. My apologies I was thinking of a different thread I didn't even look at it.

 

[Hapworth]

What do you mean by "brighten up"? If you're trying to maintain the bead blast, don't use the Scotchbright (or any abrasive) pads -- they'll polish away the bead blast finish quickly.

If you're looking to turn bead blast into something more like a brushed or high polish stainless look, have at it.

 

[Doc1500]

Brighten up, there is some uneven wear on the frame not exactly polished corners but wanted to even it out. I have already highly polished the slide, but didn't want to go that far on the frame.
Can I use the really finer Scotch-Brites, and still keep most of the bead blast finish?
I was reading a thread where you can somewhat duplicate bead blasting by laying down 300 grit paper and then hitting it with a soft mallet. Has anybody done this?

 

[GeoJelly]

Doc - I have done that for small scratches in the BB on the tops of slides and on revolvers (Model 64). I used 600 grit and, although very time consuming, it is a good way to minimize small scratches. With 600 grit, there is a small difference in texture if you hold it up to bright light – but good enough for Gov’t work!

 

[Gunhacker]

Brighten up, there is some uneven wear on the frame not exactly polished corners but wanted to even it out. I have already highly polished the slide, but didn't want to go that far on the frame.
Can I use the really finer Scotch-Brites, and still keep most of the bead blast finish?
I was reading a thread where you can somewhat duplicate bead blasting by laying down 300 grit paper and then hitting it with a soft mallet. Has anybody done this?

Media blasting is a controlled pitting of the surface that diffuses light reflection.

It essentially consists of a surface with minuet peaks and valleys, if you use anything to abrade it, only the peaks will be affected and you'll end up with bright peaks and the untouched dull valleys, and it will stand out like a sore thumb from the rest of the blasted area.

I've tried the sandpaper trick, did not like how it turned out.

 

[WR Moore]

The sandpaper trick kinda-sorta works if you've got a mark in bead blast and want to blend it in. 300 grit is way too fine-at least for the one time I did it. 150 worked much better.

Back when I was doing maintenance on mega dollar machinery, Scotch-Brite was the only authorized way to remove dreck from the seal surfaces on pump/motor shafts. It would remove the stuff without changing tolerances. The gray stuff is the super fine, red is the coarsest.

 

[tlawler]

I have always hesitated getting a cheapo air compressor because of the hazards of using glass beads – but his post and a video in his link have convinced me otherwise. I don’t think you have to use a $300 air compressor.

I use compressed nitrogen and a $20 Harbor Freight gravity feed gun. I’ve got a 250 cu.ft. nitrogen tank that lasts a long time for the small projects I do and at the pressure I regulate it to. I think it’s easier to maintain a constant pressure with the regulator than having a compressor cycling and a 50 psi swing. Plus the nitrogen is very dry and oil free, unlike compressed air that needs filtration, dehydration, and desiccation to attain the same purity. HF also has a good selection of blast media in many different grits.

 

[dfariswheel]

The wet or dry sand cloth and a small steel or hard plastic hammer can be used to blend in a small defect in a bead blasted area.
It's not going to work well on a large area.

Using a Scotchbrite pad or any other abrasive or metal polish will destroy the original bead blasted finish.
The ONLY way to restore a bead blasted finish is to re-blast it.

Word of warning: When bead blasting stainless steel or aluminum you MUST either totally clean out the blaster and refill with new blast media, or use a blaster that's been used ONLY for stainless steel or aluminum.

If you use a blaster that's been used to blast carbon steel it will embed tiny particles of carbon steel in the stainless or aluminum and it can later rust, ruining the surface.

I once had a customer who blasted an aluminum pistol frame in a garage bead blaster that was used to clean car parts.
He was astounded when his aluminum frame began to rust.

 

[Gunhacker]

I use compressed nitrogen and a $20 Harbor Freight gravity feed gun. I’ve got a 250 cu.ft. nitrogen tank that lasts a long time for the small projects I do and at the pressure I regulate it to. I think it’s easier to maintain a constant pressure with the regulator than having a compressor cycling and a 50 psi swing. Plus the nitrogen is very dry and oil free, unlike compressed air that needs filtration, dehydration, and desiccation to attain the same purity. HF also has a good selection of blast media in many different grits.

For doing touch up work on a small area, this HF air brush style etcher does a great job too.

Air Eraser/Etching Kit

 

[terrancemc]

I have been doing beadblasting for over 20 years, The only thing that will freshen up a blasted finish is another blasting. The proper beads to use for the S&W factory beadblast finish is 270 grit, which Brownells sells. I got this information from PC gunsmith Jimmy Rae at the NRA convention in Pittsburgh a few years ago. Any other media or grit does not match the factory finish. I have had guns brought to me that were blasted with play sand and they were ruined, such a coarse surface that was unnatural and quite ugly. I use a large TP tools blast cabinet with a Champion compressor, I did start out with a small bench cabinet but did not really get serious about it until I invested in the pro setup. I only do guns in my cabinet so no issues with getting steel in my beads and depositing on the surface. I have learned a lot from doing this, especially how to take apart and reassemble a gun properly. Most important thing to do in prep is a thorough cleaning in a ultrasonic tank. Every part has to come out of the gun down to the smallest spring and pin or grit will be left behind. If any forum member needs blasting or any more information PM me. Terry

 

[Bladeswitcher]

If you're going to use Scotch Brite, get the blue pads.

 

[Doc1500]

This is a lot of great information for everybody , keep it up guys .
No such thing as too much information.
Thanks for everything said so far.
But don't stop now

 

[wetdog1911]

Kinda unrelated, but perhaps not, Busse Combat (knives), offered at one time for certain knives, a finish called "Double Cut".

The blade was brought to a extremely high polish and then that high polish was glass bead blasted with a fine grit. The final effect was somewhere between the two and really quite pleasing. But, it did take a lot of work, both in the polish and the blasting. Mostly offered for knives well above the $500 mark.

Rob

 

[Doc1500]

Hey guys, soon as I can find a new picture hosting website I'll get the pictures up but in the meantime, I went to the Ace Hardware and bought green Scotch-Brite pads and gray (fine grit).
I also used 400 grit wet sandpaper and 600 grit wet sandpaper. Disassembled the 4516 - 1.
First thing I did was put a sanding drum I my Dremel and I reprofiled the backside of the trigger guard next to the mag release where that little Point sticks out? That little point no longer exist, on either side, and I deepened the undercut under and behind the trigger guard where your middle finger would rest. This pistol is now very comfortable to grip , and I'm sure we'll be very comfortable to shoot when I get there.
I think it turned out pretty fantastic in my eyes, looks like some of the revolvers I've seen as examples . I would say about 98% of the bead blast is no longer visible, and the bead blast you could see you really have to look for in the right light. TimeWise when I figure in breaks and supper 5 to 6 hours.
What is a really good free picture hosting site to use to put photos on the Forum. As soon as I figure that out I'll post the pictures.

 

[Gunhacker]

You can attach pics to your posts instead of having them on a photo hosting website... just click the "Go Advanced" button to go into advanced editing mode, and then scroll down to the "Additional Options" sections and use the "manage attachments" feature where you can upload up to 5 pics.

There's a limit of 5 per thread reply/post, so if you want to post more than 5 pics, you'll need to do it in multiple posts.

 

[824tsv]

Posting pic's that are in your computer photo album is very easy. I can walk you through it if you can't figure it out on your own. As far as a pic hosting site imgur.com is very good and free.