Sear deactivation lever?

[leejack]

Just a question or two:

I'm reading up on the M&Ps as I'm interested in the 45.

I see it has a sear deactivation lever used for field strip and assembly. Is this thing an improvement? Looks to me like another step on what looks like a frail part??? Is it a frail part, or is it rugged and will it stand up to the task over time.

I've never owned an M&P, just seems like pulling the trigger is a simpler way to do it (at least that's what I'm use to).

School me on the bennies of this lever guys!

Thanks, just learning.

 

[OKFC05]

It works fine, and you actually don't have to use it. You can disassemble the M&P just like your Sigma/SD by pulling the trigger.
However, I find it extremely simple and more convenient to just use a q tip (from the box on the cleaning bench) to reach down through the locked-back port and push the lever down, then move the slide right off. After you are done cleaning and reassembling, simply putting in a magazine raises the lever. I even have a clearing bucket beside the cleaning bench for dry firing, but I prefer the lever on the M&P.
On the Shield, it is much better to use the lever. Those things are cranky about reassembly!

P.S. I'm sure it is possible to break the sear lever, but you would have to really work at it. Try it, it's quick and positive.

 

[leejack]

Thanks!

 

[B0308]

lee,

OKFC05 pretty well covered it. I have a mid-sized .45 M&P and it is by far the best operating out of the box semi-auto I have ever owned (and there have been a bunch).

I believe the sear deactivation lever is a solution to a non-problem, but it todays world with rampant litigation for almost any reason, I see why they did it.

Most of the time I field strip the old fashion way (after clearing and checking, I just hit the trigger and go, however, it does work as designed when you take the time. Good advice on the Shield, I always use it there.

Get one and enjoy.

 

[Modeler]

It works fine, and you actually don't have to use it. You can disassemble the M&P just like your Sigma/SD by pulling the trigger.

Quick note: you can only disassemble it by pulling the trigger if your gun does not have a magazine disconnect. If you end up with a gun that has a magazine disconnect you have to use the sear deactivation lever.

 

[dajogejr]

Quick note: you can only disassemble it by pulling the trigger if your gun does not have a magazine disconnect. If you end up with a gun that has a magazine disconnect you have to use the sear deactivation lever.

Great point. I spent a couple bucks on a spring to eliminate that...bugged the heck out of me.

 

[Modeler]

Great point. I spent a couple bucks on a spring to eliminate that...bugged the heck out of me.

Yeah, magazine disconnects suck. One of the things I like about S&W is that they make guns with and without all the nanny state BS and let the consumer choose. R***r, on the other hand, just makes their guns with all the **** and then gets mad when you remove it.

 

[N4KVE]

Quick note: you can only disassemble it by pulling the trigger if your gun does not have a magazine disconnect. If you end up with a gun that has a magazine disconnect you have to use the sear deactivation lever.

Not my 40c. Has the mag disconnect, & I can strip it by pulling the trigger just like a Glock. GARY

 

[leejack]

Thanks for the helpful replies.

When I read this, I had a hunch it was a lawyer design, cuz it doesn't get any easier than the SD/Sigma way.

Tell me the mag disconnects are sold somewhere other than Texas. I think a semi auto should be capable of firing with the magazine disconnected, and mine is.

LOL! Just thought of something; the Glock/Sigma style of takedown was being discussed in another forum (as I recall), and some yahoo commented that it was too dangerous pulling the trigger before take down. I thought at the time, it is dangerous if you happen to have a loaded gun you schmuck! LOL!

The M&P 45 will remain high on my list of next purchase possibilities.

Thanks again, folks!

 

[bmb96mus]

Not my 40c. Has the mag disconnect, & I can strip it by pulling the trigger just like a Glock. GARY

I thought that was the point of having a mag disconnect? With the mag out u can still pull the trigger to remove the slide??

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk

 

[Fastbolt]

The sear disconnect lever design was created after LE input was received indicating a strong preference to have a pistol that could be field-stripped without having to pull the trigger. It's that simple.

The proper use of the sear disconnect lever requires the user/owner to lock the slide back, which provides a way to reinforce being able to inspect & confirm the chamber is clear and the magazine has been removed.

When you consider the M&P was designed to address the stated needs expressed by the LE/Gov/Mil market, it makes perfect sense to try and meet stated needs.

If a M&P pistol is equipped with a mag safety, and the mag well is empty (no mag in the gun), the mag safety lever's design should prevent the trigger bar's tail from being able to engage the sear and release the striker.

 

[N4KVE]

Hey, all I know is after my brother sold me the gun I took it apart to clean. I had no knowledge of using the pin device in the grip to move the yellow lever. I simply took it apart like I've been doing on my Glock for years. The slide came right off. GARY

 

[rsrocket1]

If you have a mag disconnect and don't want to push the sear lever down.

With a magazine fully inserted in the gun:

1. Lock the slide back
2. Pull the lever down
3. Release the slide lock while holding the slide and gently letting it go all the way forward until it stops (just so it doesn't bang forward)
4. Press the trigger
5. Release the magazine using the mag release button

The slide should now release and go all the way forward and off the frame.

Takes much longer to describe than it does to actually do it. I hate fumbling around trying to get that little sear lever down.

 

[GKC]

When I read this, I had a hunch it was a lawyer design, cuz it doesn't get any easier than the SD/Sigma way.

Actually, I prefer the take down lever on an M&P over that of the SDVE, since it's easier to manipulate, and only takes one hand. I have put an extended take down lever in every Glock or SDVE pistol I have owned, since the stock lever is too hard to grasp, for me anyway. As others have mentioned, you don't need to push down the sear disconnect lever...you can pull the trigger.

If you do get a M&P, I'd advise not using the frame tool (which is embedded in the grip, and secures the grip insert) as the manual instructs. If you take it in and out too often, it gets loose. I usually just change the insert to the small, and then I don't remove the frame tool anymore. I can use a pencil, screwdriver, or even my finger (I have small hands) to push down the lever.

Tell me the mag disconnects are sold somewhere other than Texas. I think a semi auto should be capable of firing with the magazine disconnected, and mine is.

You can get M&Ps in both configurations here, but most of the time, I see those without. (Some states mandate a mag disconnect.) You can also get M&Ps with a thumb safety, and I've had a couple, but I don't care for them. The thumb safeties on the M&Ps I had felt mushy, and there was no positive engagement or disengagement.

The M&P 45 is a great gun...my favorite is the midsize: a 4" barrel, but a full size grip that holds 10 rounds. You don't run across those very often, at least not in shops around here. They aren't "rare" but I guess most shops don't order them as normal stock. When I bought mine, the shop ordered it for me.

 

[Nakanokalronin]

I like using the yellow sear deactivation lever when taking the slide off, even if I don't have to. It's nice when you're not required to dry fire in order to do so and I'm not in a competition about who can take their slide off the quickest. If you're at home and have the most basic tools, you have something that can push down the lever. If you have no tools at all, you have something that can push down the lever.

It's nice to just pull the trigger if you want to show someone the internals right then and there or if you want to do the same as your Glock. Either way is fine, but it's not a big deal at all to push down a little lever. The grip tool is really for field use and does not replace having some small screw drivers and roll pin punches at home.

 

[Saudade]

You can use the swizzle stick from your last Gin Rickey.

Both my FS and C have mag safeties.

 

[PHolster]

I use a plastic TV alignment tool I had laying around. I no longer need them and found they are a great tool for cleaning guns and in this case, toggling down the sear deactivation lever.

 

[Edmo]

The lever, IMHO, is useless. They could have kept both the thumb safety and the sear deactivation lever off my Shield as I never use either of them.

Clear the gun, lock the slide open, flip down the takedown lever, release the slide forward and trip the trigger. Works every time and I don't have to find a tool to move the yellow lever...

Edmo

 

[presspics]

I wouldn't call it lawyer design. Having to pull the trigger to disassemble a handgun is an extremely stupid thing to have to do. It violates the basic rules of gun safety. It's why I hate Glock. I have seen enough bullet holes in the ceilings of Glock issued police department classrooms to understand why.

It's also why I paraphrase Ralph Naders book on the Corvair...Glock, unsafe in any caliber.

 

[shawn mccarver]

The lever is designed to allow disassembly without pulling the trigger. It is a rugged part. I have never heard of one breaking. All you have to do is push it down after locking back the slide. Make sure it is still in the down position before attempting to put the slide back on the gun. Insertion of a magazine into the weapon puts it back in its operational position. What I don't like about the system is the "on board" tool. It is really stiff to remove, and as it loosens, I do not want to have to worry that it is unintentionally turned enough to interfere with magazine insertion or removal. I simply don't use the tool. Fingertip or Bic pen works fine.