Seating dies

[pharos]

I shoot a 9mm REVOLVER. Does anyone make a sizing die that sizes the entire case from mouth to rim? I'm having trouble getting all my cases to fully seat in the cylinder.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Sam McCord]

Are you using once fired brass or new? How is your sizing die adjusted? Does the shell holder bump the die when you run case up in to your sizer?

 

[kraynky]

Sometimes an "overcrimp" die setting can cause the case to bulge at the bottom. Try an empty case in the cylinder right after resizing, before you do anything else.

Just a guess.

 

[TXBryan]

My "run of the mill" Lee sizer die full-length resizes 9mm if I screw it in until it contacts the (empty) shell holder at the top of the stroke. Or at least comes as close to squeezing to the rim as much as my Lee sizing dies for .38 Special, etc.

I'm guessing you're not getting any bulging near the base of the cases since they're being fired in a revolver cylinder?

Bryan

 

[GypsmJim]

had my first ever "fail to seat" this past Winter. I've been reloading nines for semis for 40+ years and never had an issue.

I also have never bought nine brass. I have literally a thousand once fired range pickups.

My issue was a reload got very stuck in the chamber of a Glock. It took a smith to remove it Turned out the case had a bulge near the base. I pulled the bullet and resized it and it still would not chamber.

I ended up getting a Lee "bulge buster" kit and that was the only thing that made the brass usable. Funny thing was that I went thru ALL my other brass and reloads and this was the single only case that was a problem.

I'm relaying all this info to suggest that if you are getting free brass from somewhere, maybe you should validate the source. Otherwise, get a bulge buster.

 

[pharos]

Virtually all of my brass is at least once-fired. My sizing die always contacts the shell holder. Sounds like I need to get a "bulge-buster" to ensure that all my cases are uniform top-to-bottom. Never have bought new 9mm brass. Too much free stuff at the range.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

had my first ever "fail to seat" this past Winter. I've been reloading nines for semis for 40+ years and never had an issue.

I also have never bought nine brass. I have literally a thousand once fired range pickups.

My issue was a reload got very stuck in the chamber of a Glock. It took a smith to remove it Turned out the case had a bulge near the base. I pulled the bullet and resized it and it still would not chamber.

I ended up getting a Lee "bulge buster" kit and that was the only thing that made the brass usable. Funny thing was that I went thru ALL my other brass and reloads and this was the single only case that was a problem.

I'm relaying all this info to suggest that if you are getting free brass from somewhere, maybe you should validate the source. Otherwise, get a bulge buster.

When you move metal back to it's original place wouldn't that create a stress area in that location? Curious?

 

[STORMINORMAN]

Lyman Handgun Ammo Checker: best way to say a lot of time and rework. Helps in setting up your sizing, expanding, seating & crimp dies: allows you to check that those 1st few reloads should chamber. Then provides an easy QC check as you continue.

Might be the be$t $35 or so you might spend as it covers 380acp, 9mm, 38 Special & 357 Magnum, 45acp, 45 Colt, 40 S&W, 44 Special & 44 Magnum.

Cheers!

 

[505Gibbs]

Don't forget that the 9mm is not a straight side case it has a taper to it. Run the die down as suggested earlier.

 

[growr]

Some folks that have brass fired in a Glock like to use the Redding push through sizing die....GRX I think is what they call it.

Never had that problem with my Dillon dies, but know of others that have.

Randy

 

[jag22]

Couple of thoughts. Did you try them after running them thru the resizing die but before seating the bullet as suggested? Also bulge busters have been discussed here before and I thought they were for straight wall cases only, but I agree that the 9mm is so close to straight they may work. When I loaded 9s on my single stage I found what worked best was just barely sizing the top to remove any flair, full case resizing wasn't necessary. Just keep tinkering and you'll probably find the sweet spot, but keep in mind, what you find works for your revolver may not be good for a semi.

 

[TXBryan]

Virtually all of my brass is at least once-fired. My sizing die always contacts the shell holder. Sounds like I need to get a "bulge-buster" to ensure that all my cases are uniform top-to-bottom. Never have bought new 9mm brass. Too much free stuff at the range.

We use a bulge buster Lee die on all of our .45 GAP brass. It's a necessity. Anything from a Glock may have bulges. Suspect if you get to the point where you're reloading only brass that has been fired in your revolver, you may not have much issue.

 

[Cdog]

The Bulge Buster works. Back when I owned Glockenspiels I used one regularly.

I second the Lyman tool StormiNorman recommends.

 

[glenwolde]

First, run your empty ram up to your sizing die. Note the clearance between the shell holder and the sizing die. Then repeat with a case. I've had presses that had a remarkably larger "gap" with a case vs no case. Not likely the problem but it could happen, especially with smaller and weaker presses with certain dies. You could also try lubing the cases if you find this problem.

Use the Lee Bulge Buster, but that uses a 9mm Makarov sizing die as the bulge-buster die for 9mm Luger.

 

[GypsmJim]

When you move metal back to it's original place wouldn't that create a stress area in that location? Curious?

Isn't that what you do every time you resize a case?

 

[GypsmJim]

Use the Lee Bulge Buster, but that uses a 9mm Makarov sizing die as the bulge-buster die for 9mm Luger.

Lee does not recommend that scenario. But, it works.

My Glock has the tightest chamber of all my nines. The "defective" round fit in all the others. Only the Glock wouldn't chamber.

After my mishap, I DID buy a Lyman case gauge. I had many rounds fail the gauge, but they ALL fit in ALL the chambers, including the glock.

IMHO, now I use the Glock barrel and plunk test every round. Only then do I need to use the bulge buster.

 

[STORMINORMAN]

I hope you are not using it on finished rounds (primer, powder and bullet seated)...?

 

[gwpercle]

To re-size all the way to the rim ... you have to get the shell holder out of the way .
Easiest way to size them "all the way" is Lee's Bulge Buster Kit .
I use range brass and a good 25% has the bulge at the base from un-supported barrels ... I run every case through the Bulge Buster and that takes care of the proplem .
Neat little tool from Lee ... I like this one a lot .

The tool is made to be used on fired brass cases not loaded ammo .
Gary

 

[Krogen]

I shoot plate matches where everybody's brass winds up in a pile. We just grab handfuls after the match to reload. Of course the brass is of unknown heritage and merits careful inspection. I clean it up with stainless pins and don't load hot loads.

This approach always worked fine for me. I even quit doing the "plunk" test. You could say I got lazy. Then I bought a Springfield Armory Garrison in 9mm. After a few of these "low class reloads" it locked up tight. The round jammed in the chamber and wouldn't let the slide close. Rats!

One I got it open, I "plunked" a bunch of these rounds and found them oversize near the base. Then I tried plunking some LAX commercial reloads and found the same thing. Foolish me, I shoulda been more critical. Never had this issue with my Sigs or S&Ws. The Springfield has a tight chamber, I learned.

I bought one of Lee's undersized sizing dies to fix this issue. This might address your issue: Lee Undersized Carbide Sizing Die

 

[Paul in Nevada]

Do you seat and crimp in separate steps? If not, try it. As for the "plunk test", get an actual loaded cartridge gauge instead because it will show you the minimum tolerance. Once your taper crimp is passes the plunk in your gauge, the crimp is perfect. A Lee FCD might help here as well because it post-sizes the cartridge. The Bulge Buster does the same thing only better except Lee does not make a Bulge Buster for 9x19, nor does Redding have a GRX for this cartridge. As Glenwolde said, the workaround is to use a 9mm Mak sizing ring in the Lee system.

... I run every case through the Bulge Buster and that takes care of the proplem .
Neat little tool from Lee ... I like this one a lot .

The tool is made to be used on fired brass cases not loaded ammo .
Gary

I think that's the better way to do it, but the instructions do say you can use it on loaded cartridges. I ran 250 40S&W's after loading and they worked fine. I believe from now on I will use it on empty brass only.