HiCap
Member
I recently got a .32 3.5" barrel 2d model lemmon squeezer s/n 134607 to replace one that I had as a kid in the 1940's. Is there a source that could provide the year of manufacture?
HiCap
HiCap
Second model Safety Hammerless Year of Manufacture
- Thread starter HiCap
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My 2nd Model, serial 1726xx, left the factory in April, 1908. I would guess, and it is a pure guess, is that yours was shipped around 1906. Hopefully, someone will provide a closer estimate.
That serial number would have most likely been shipped in 1905. S&W collectors rely on ship dates for the best source of age and not manufacturing dates.
Messer
Member
OK - I'm curious. I just pulled a old Lemon Squeezer from the safe where it's been sitting for a while.
It has SN 135xx - and in looking around online today, I found this on a gundigest.com link...
.38 Safety Hammerless 2nd Model
Push button latch protrudes above frame. Serial number 5251-42483. Built 1887-1890.
I'm wondering if the SN range they have is correct, as you seem to have one with one more digit.
Mine is a 38 S&W, 3.25" barrel, nickel finish, black rubber grip.
I'll try and get some pics tomorrow.
Bob S.
It has SN 135xx - and in looking around online today, I found this on a gundigest.com link...
.38 Safety Hammerless 2nd Model
Push button latch protrudes above frame. Serial number 5251-42483. Built 1887-1890.
I'm wondering if the SN range they have is correct, as you seem to have one with one more digit.
Mine is a 38 S&W, 3.25" barrel, nickel finish, black rubber grip.
I'll try and get some pics tomorrow.
Bob S.
mmaher94087
Member
The serial number in the OP is WAAAAYY above a Second Model Safety Hammerless of any caliber. I suspect that the gun is not a Smith & Wesson.
Messer
Member
OK - I see where I went wrong - the 32 & 38 "Safety Hammerless" guns have their own SN ranges.
How hard/easy are these to work on? I think I need the firing pin replaced.
Thanks,
Bob S.
How hard/easy are these to work on? I think I need the firing pin replaced.
Thanks,
Bob S.
mmaher94087
Member
Ok, me too. I read too many digits on the OP's .32 Safety.
Messer, the firing pin replacement isn't rocket science. Finding parts is the hard part. Firing pins occasionally show at Gun Parts Corporation or look to Jack First as they repro the pins.
Messer, the firing pin replacement isn't rocket science. Finding parts is the hard part. Firing pins occasionally show at Gun Parts Corporation or look to Jack First as they repro the pins.
Schematic for the 38 Hammerless
Hey Bob,
This might help you out. So, I'm no gunsmith but I do tinker a lot. on the hammerless variation you will notice that when looking directly at the firing pin from the recoil shield with the top break open and empty? You will see 3 holes? One is the firing pin itself then two holes. One on either side? The entire assembly of holes is surrounded by a small circle? That circle is actually threaded and will unscrew with the proper tool that is inserted into those two small holes. Once removed the floating firing pin comes out. Believe it or not quite often the reason the firing pin doesn't reach the primer is due to "Guck, Grime, Crud, etc. black powder slime from 100 years of development inside that pocket! All it needs is to be removed and cleaned. Unless of course the pin is busted?
Hey Bob,
This might help you out. So, I'm no gunsmith but I do tinker a lot. on the hammerless variation you will notice that when looking directly at the firing pin from the recoil shield with the top break open and empty? You will see 3 holes? One is the firing pin itself then two holes. One on either side? The entire assembly of holes is surrounded by a small circle? That circle is actually threaded and will unscrew with the proper tool that is inserted into those two small holes. Once removed the floating firing pin comes out. Believe it or not quite often the reason the firing pin doesn't reach the primer is due to "Guck, Grime, Crud, etc. black powder slime from 100 years of development inside that pocket! All it needs is to be removed and cleaned. Unless of course the pin is busted?
Attachments
Messer
Member
The only hole in the bushing is the one for the firing pin.
I agree it just might be gunked up - maybe I'll give it a good soaking.
I'll try and get some pics up.
Bob S.
I agree it just might be gunked up - maybe I'll give it a good soaking.
I'll try and get some pics up.
Bob S.
mmaher94087
Member
Bob, look at the frame side at the firing pin. There will be a pin that needs to be drifted out. By pulling the trigger a few times, the firing pin bushing should punch out of the frame (gun open). At this point the firing pin and spring are accessible and probably fell out on the table or floor.
Sorry about that. Mikes correct. Wrong model for my procedure. You can see the pin Mike is talking about in the diagram I posted just below the catch posts? But I would have to see a photo to determine if the pin comes out front or back? Probably the back side so you have to dismantle to remove it? Later models improved this design so the gun did not have to be dismantled to remove the pin.
* Yeah, if you look at the schematic? Part number 15? Is the firing pin. On this early model the firing pin comes out the back side. Yours is an early model by serial number so it comes out the back side. Pain in the butt! The improvement is the procedure I described. The post confused me because we are talking about two different calibers and two different models.
* Yeah, if you look at the schematic? Part number 15? Is the firing pin. On this early model the firing pin comes out the back side. Yours is an early model by serial number so it comes out the back side. Pain in the butt! The improvement is the procedure I described. The post confused me because we are talking about two different calibers and two different models.
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Messer
Member
OK - I see that pin, it's just in front of the pin for button that opens the action.
I'm going to give the whole gun a good soak in some cleaning solution and see if I can make it happy again.
Thanks for the help.
Bob S.
mmaher94087
Member
I recommend a soaking in Ed's Red which is a 50/50 mixture of Acetone and ATF. Some add Kerosene to make the mixture 30/30/30. The longer the soak; the easier it is to remove the parts.
Also, S&W pins have rounded ends. Normal (store bought) pin punches have flat ends and will mar or flatten the ends of the pins. I highly recommend purchasing 'cupped' punches from vendors such as Brownell's. They sell short "starter" punches, normal 2" punches as well as 'pin-starter' punches. All are well worth the money if one wants to refurbish a Smith & Wesson.
Also, S&W pins have rounded ends. Normal (store bought) pin punches have flat ends and will mar or flatten the ends of the pins. I highly recommend purchasing 'cupped' punches from vendors such as Brownell's. They sell short "starter" punches, normal 2" punches as well as 'pin-starter' punches. All are well worth the money if one wants to refurbish a Smith & Wesson.
Too bad that Messer posted in the OP's thread and has totally taken over the discussion. Please start a new thread instead of inserting a different topic or different gun in someone else's thread.
