Secrets and Keys to Snub accuracy?

[Joe in SC]

First of all don't expect a snub to be anything other than what it is, a revolver designed to be easily hid.

I have owned several by various makers and accuracy varies widely, even within brands.

Intended as a short range weapon, keep their use limited to that and most will serve their purpose. They are not refered to as a "belly gun" for no reason.

Expecting small groups from a snub is unrealistic. However, with some of the more accurate guns, particularly the one's with adjustable sights and 2 1/2 inch bbls., accuracy can be suprisingly good.

Just like anything else, to improve one's skills with a snub requires practice and application of good fundamentals. Personally, I consider the snub to be mostly used with double action, therefore a good, smooth double action is necessary for accurate shooting.

You're lucky if you have a snub that shoots to poi. You need to try several different brands and bullet weights to find the most accurate and one that hits most closely to poi. Luckily, tight groups aren't necessary for close range defense work on an adult sized torso. Again, don't expect too much.

 

[raisedin99]

I have found some enjoyable reading on Mr. Camps website, perhaps you will as well.

Making the J-Frame Work

terry

 

[Hapworth]

Technically speaking, I think Miculek recommends that technique only for Centennial type guns with a fully concealed hammer.

Although in the video I watched he is using an enclosed hammer model, Miculek refers to the technique as being for J-frames in general, which makes sense as the thumb placement doesn't affect hammer swing.

Jerry Miculek - Revolver Grip | MyOutdoorTV.com

 

[BubbaBlades]

Each of these targets was shot at 15 yards two-handed unsupported. There are 7 rounds in the .22 target, however, the S&W 317 has a 3" barrel and I used a laser. I have found most snubbies will shoot far better than 99%+ of the shooters that use them. I believe that the "secret" to snub accuracy is proper shooting technique and lots of practice.

Mark

 

[one eye joe]

Snub accuracy? Just spray and pray.

http://pic90.picturetrail.com/VOL2169/3082611/6259637/38993

What model is the beautiful no lock revolver pictured, C&L ? ? ?

 

[Hapworth]

What model is the beautiful no lock revolver pictured, C&L ? ? ?

Cocked & Locked will of course have the final say, but it's looking like a pre-lock Performance Center 627 -- dream gun of mine.

 

[one eye joe]

GORGEOUS W/O A LOCK ! ! ! GOTTA BE SCARCE........

 

[Rapidray]

I have found some enjoyable reading on Mr. Camps website, perhaps you will as well.

Making the J-Frame Work

terry

Stephen gives good advice...he always did. His love was the Hi-Power. He is missed by the Hi-Power group, but the snub advice is good. The "perfect practice" phase is seldom mentioned but is true. That's why you should seek out a master shooter and ask for advice! He may see something you are doing wrong. If you don't you may be doing something wrong and you just keep doing it because you do not know!

 

[Edmo]

As others have said: Practice; trigger job helps; then, more practice.

Edmo

 

[arc2x4]

If you have J frame Snubbie you carry for defense keep the Full power main spring you want it for reliability, practice shooting it instead and strengthen your trigger finger.

 

[photoman]

I do not think it is very hard to shoot a snub accurately. In "the French Connection" Popeye Doyle ran a half mile and shot a man off a boat a good 100 yards away. Just streched out one arm laid the other across and bang. Maybe the camera angle helped.

Ever seen an episode of Barnaby Jones? Same thing! He would only shoot one round and hit the mark every time! LOL

 

[DCWilson]

Maybe I am just lucky, or pre-adapted to the large and heavier snubbies, but the K and N frame short barrel guns I have fired just seem to be inherently accurate at social distances; the bullets mostly go where I want them to.

I have not had the same result with small-frame guns. My groups with any caliber in a J-frame are fairly large and not necessarily centered on the point of aim. I need to work on that. A lot.

I mostly shoot at 30 feet or less with short barrels, but my 2-5/8" 627 PC is so accurate that I can reach out to twice that distance or a little more and still keep the rounds within shouting distance of one another.

My two K-frame snubbies (a Pre-10 from 1947 and an early snubnose Combat Masterpiece) are quite accurate at 10 yards.

The use of a T-adapter seems to help me on K-frames. There is also some benefit in hand position. I have average hands with more length in the palm than in the fingers. I had a flinch until I forced myself to grab the gun so that the knuckle of my middle finger was either to the left or to the right of the trigger guard. When the particular gun and grip do not permit that, I have a "logjam" grip I use in which I put my ring finger as high up the grip as I can and then fold my middle finger over it, pressing up against the bottom of the trigger guard. I have seen this seemingly clumsy grip used on J-frames by guys with big hands. Despite its ugly appearance, it is quite stable and saves battered knuckles.

I suppose I could just put a thick-pad band-aid on my knuckle, but then I would be training myself to rely on a modification I couldn't guarantee would always be available.

I firmly believe that any gun can be accurate if you practice enough with it, but you should make sure it shoots to POA from a Ransom rest if you are having trouble with it. It's a poor workman who blames his tools, but it is a poor professional who adapts to a bad tool once its defects have been demonstrated.

The suggestion of a supervised session with a serious firearms instructor is also a good one.