Self defense ammo for a model 19

The problem I have always had wih aluminum cased rounds is that if you ever need a quick reload, you're screwed.

The aluminum cases expand more in the chamber and are considerably more difficult to eject from the cylinder than fired brass cases. YMMV

I've never had that problem in a .357 or 44 mag.
 
I recently chronoed some 135gr. Speer Gold Dot HPs (I think they were standards and not Short Barrel) and found the following: Out of my SP101 snubby they averaged 1,097fps. With the GP100, 6" barrel they did 1,230fps. Having a bonded bullet and that kind of speed I feel adequately "gunned" with the snubby.
 
I recently chronoed some 135gr. Speer Gold Dot HPs (I think they were standards and not Short Barrel) and found the following: Out of my SP101 snubby they averaged 1,097fps. With the GP100, 6" barrel they did 1,230fps. Having a bonded bullet and that kind of speed I feel adequately "gunned" with the snubby.
All Speer factory 135 gr. .38+P and .357 are short barrel. I'm assuming by those velocities that you fired the .357 Short Barrel load.
 
All Speer factory 135 gr. .38+P and .357 are short barrel. I'm assuming by those velocities that you fired the .357 Short Barrel load.


I guess. I thought they had standard loadings too but I'm not sure. On the Speer website I thought they advertised the 134gr .357 out of a snubbby at about 950fps. Whatever I had did better.
 
The problem I have always had wih aluminum cased rounds is that if you ever need a quick reload, you're screwed.
The aluminum cases expand more in the chamber and are considerably more difficult to eject from the cylinder than fired brass cases.

I have experienced this in Scandium revolvers in both .357 and .44 calibers. Steel or stainless cylinders, no problem.

JME.
 
no stick here

Today, I fired 6 rnds of 158gr Blazer aluminum cased .357's thru my M65 3in, and it only took a gentle nudge to clear the chambers. However full length .357 brass is pretty long in a speed load scenario.
 
I'll probably catch heck from everyone else, But I go the other way in my .38 Specials for in home use. The cylinders are loaded with factory 148 Gr. wad cutters, and in case a reload is necessary I go to my 158Gr. Speer LSWCHP's over 4.5 Gr. of Unique. I live in your typical ancient (1975) modular home with paneling inside and vinyl siding outside. Even with the wad cutters I worry about over penetration. Outside, I normally carry my 5903's loaded with alternating Hornady XTP 125 Gr. Hp's and Winchester 125 Gr. FMJ's over 6.0 Gr. of Unique. HP/FMJ; HP/FMJ. -Ed.
 
I'll probably catch heck from everyone else, But I go the other way in my .38 Specials for in home use. The cylinders are loaded with factory 148 Gr. wad cutters, and in case a reload is necessary I go to my 158Gr. Speer LSWCHP's over 4.5 Gr. of Unique. I live in your typical ancient (1975) modular home with paneling inside and vinyl siding outside. Even with the wad cutters I worry about over penetration. Outside, I normally carry my 5903's loaded with alternating Hornady XTP 125 Gr. Hp's and Winchester 125 Gr. FMJ's over 6.0 Gr. of Unique. HP/FMJ; HP/FMJ. -Ed.
Sounds very sensible to me.
 
I keep my 19s and 65s loaded with either Remington 125gr. Golden Saber .357s or Speer Short Barrel 135gr. .357s. ANY .38 or .357 ammo will penetrate several layers of sheetrock, so one should be more concerned with hitting the intended target and stopping it than with "overpanetration" of wallboard. Either of the above loads is better than a .38 as a stopper, and still mild enough to be highly controllable in your 19.
 
In home: Remington 38+P 158 gr lead hollowpoint "FBI Load" or Federal 38 +P+ 147 Hydras. Both loads were issued by the FBI and they were good loads. These are the only 38s I will use.

On the street: 357 Magnum Winchester SuperX 145 gr Silvertip or Federal 158 gr Hydras.

+1. My gun has either the FBI load or the 147+p+ hydras in it. Both great.
 
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