Shield 45 positive experience! *Update* Apex sear now 4/29 update added

[swsig]

Like the OP, I found the 45 Shield to be a great little pistol being sold at an excellent price point (and recently with a rebate). I'm at 800 rounds through mine without an issue. I thought the trigger was good out of the box, but it smooths out and lightens nicely after being shot a bit. It makes a great carry pistol.

I have 1300 rounds through my Shield .45., and that has been my experience, too. A smooth trigger right out of the box, which has lightened up with use. My Shield 9 (4800 rounds) trigger was similar. I've never understood those who want to replace their factory trigger with an Apex before they've even fired a round. If you still don't like your trigger after 1000 rounds, OK, go Apex, but at least give the factory trigger a chance. You might end up liking it and saving yourself some money. If you're going to carry, you don't want a trigger that is too light. Both of my Shields now have triggers that have become perfect for carry guns.

 

[ontargetagain]

After installing the new sear I got a chance to get a little shooting in. The sear alone is a very nice upgrade in enhancing the trigger overall for the $42 it costs and I retain the factory sear too. Installation was fairly easy other than taking apart any gun and especially new gun is a learning experience. That rear roll pin takes some good whacks to get it moving!
I also had loaded up a batch of Berry's 45 acp Target Hollow Points 200gr. Oddly they would not chamber? They dropped into my case gauge just fine, they shot fine in my friends Ruger 1911 and another 1911 that another shooter at the range had. It appears the bullet shoulder breaks to the straight of the base is scuffing and preventing proper seating. I have sent a message to Berry's and waiting a response back. The Target HP's shot very well in my S&W 625 revolver!

**Issue resolved, I loaded the bullets a bit too long, just needed to seat deeper as the bullet was hitting the lands/grooves before seating on case mouth.** Not an issue with the barrel, just the guy doing the reloads (me)

*Next I have a JMT sight pusher arriving, I will pull the the rear sight and polish the striker block button up real well and fully disassemble the rest of the gun to address any other areas I can find that show 'rub' to polish up. I have found that Wet/Dry sandpaper at 2000 grit makes for a good polishing medium and will do a fine job on polishing up feed ramps too
Karl

 

[JLM]

(Snip). I also had loaded up a batch of Berry's 45 acp Target Hollow Points 200gr. Oddly they would not chamber? They dropped into my case gauge just fine, they shot fine in my friends Ruger 1911 and another 1911 that another shooter at the range had. It appears the bullet shoulder breaks to the straight of the base is scuffing and preventing proper seating. I have sent a message to Berry's and waiting a response back. The Target HP's shot very well in my S&W 625 revolver!

**Issue resolved, I loaded the bullets a bit too long, just needed to seat deeper as the bullet was hitting the lands/grooves before seating on case mouth.** Not an issue with the barrel, just the guy doing the reloads (me)
(Snip)
Karl

Hi Karl,
What OAL did you settle on? I'm at 1.250" and SWC's aren't feeding too well but accuracy is quite good.
Thanks

 

[ontargetagain]

Hi Karl,
What OAL did you settle on? I'm at 1.250" and SWC's aren't feeding too well but accuracy is quite good.
Thanks

The Berry's Hollow Point Targets are going to need to be 1.114 to seat proper in my chamber.
The Berry's SWC's were feeding fine for me at about 1.235 but I just loaded up some more at 1.203.
Yes your accuracy looks great! Nice Mine seems to shoot a bit to the left, after close inspection my front sight is slightly left, I just got a JMT sight pusher so I will tweak that front sight later on.
Karl

 

[ontargetagain]

**This is another update on my Shield 45**
Just sharing some info here. I purchased the JMT sight pusher along with the S&W pin set so that I could remove my rear sight and make an adjustment to the front sight.
I wanted to remove the striker block plunger assembly to polish and radius the bottom as well as debur and or polish the cavity in which it rides in. The time spent was well worth it. I took some 1000 and 2000 grit wet/dry paper to burnish the cavity then I mounted the plunger in my cordless drill and used a honing stone to knock down the edge of the plunger base and radius it, then I used the 2000 grit paper to polish and then I also high polished the sides of the plunger that contact the walls of the cavity as well as apply a bit of moly lube. As I pushed on the plunger with a steel punch I felt no binding or grittiness.
Also I removed the striker assembly of which had some wear indicator marks of areas metal touched metal and polished those and then applied a bit of moly lube to the plastic slide on the striker pin assembly.

**Overall the trigger is becoming very nice, the grittiness is gone and with the Apex sear in place and this being done I have a trigger coming in around 4lb 6oz and a much smoother pull overall. Next step left is to polish the small semi-loop on the trigger bar that the sear rides up on and any other seen contact points once the assembly is removed. It has been rewarding for me to dissect the assembly and refine it. It just keeps getting better!
Karl

***if anyone has an unaltered factory sear from a Shield 45 please contact me, I have a WTB request in the classified forum, thanks***

 

[ontargetagain]

***Last Update***
Finished up last night stripping down the frame. Found a few areas to that benefitted from polishing, mainly underside of sear where the 'loop' pushes under it and also the loop itself on the trigger bar got polished completely. Some moly lube on any friction points and put it all back together and wow is it smooth! No 'grab' as it engages the safety plunger, not drag as you pull the trigger at all. Digital Lyman gage has me right at about 4lbs now with a nice crisp release.
So with just the installation of the Apex sear and careful polishing of contact points I started at the upper 6lb range and settled in at about 4lbs but such a better feel to the whole trigger pull now.
If anyone has any questions I'm glad to offer input of what I did just send a PM to me or email me.
Karl

 

[Dad_Roman]

Been following along. Good work! I also got dramatic results as you did.

I like the PDF that shows the filing/polishing process. I have 4 of these so as I replace a sear, I file the takeout to go in the next one.

Have them all done before long.

 

[ontargetagain]

Been following along. Good work! I also got dramatic results as you did.

I like the PDF that shows the filing/polishing process. I have 4 of these so as I replace a sear, I file the takeout to go in the next one.

Have them all done before long.

I did not modify the factory sear but instead put in a replacement Apex sear and polished it. Is that what you are doing or are you modifying the factory sear? And thanks!
Karl

 

[Dad_Roman]

When this was brought to my attention someone (probably you) brought the "sear only change out" to light instead of the entire kit. I immediately ordered the sear (ebay) and put it in mommas Shield9. Great difference. Been filing on that factory takeout (OEM) slowly and have it just about ready to put a polish on it. When I looked at what the difference was between the Apex and an OEM it seemed pretty cut and dried. I see where the ramp angle was changed dramatically and the angle was right in line with the tip up to the top of the roll pin hole. Vised it up in the forceps and been workin on it with an ignition file. I just dress on it when I have a few minutes at work

I didnt polish the Apex, might need to pull that unit down and do a nice polishing on it and the other components now that I am much more enlightened

Remember...I have 4 of these.

 

[Dad_Roman]

Ok, for just playin around it came out pretty good.

Swapping out sear's for an Apex/Apex style modification..

Pic#1 shows the OEM sear I took out of my Shield9 and modified to an Apex style ramp. Filed X 1200 X final high polish.

Pic #2 shows side-by-side of the modified sear (top) and the OEM Shield45 sear. The first thing I noticed is that the rear hole on the OEM sear is partially drilled out (weight savings? balance?) other than that they are identical. Interesting.

Pic #3 shows a high polish on the loop.


First....the actual Apex sear in the Shield9. Initially the OEM sear had a 6.5lb pull. The Apex sear brought it down to 5lb with no additional work, polishing etc.

Second....the modified Apex style sear in the Shield45. Now to be perfectly honest here, I am not some longtime gun sporter nor am I intimately familiar with trigger variations. I am however somewhat mechanically inclined. That being said, I will also admit that my particular Shield45 (and the wife's) seemed to have an excellent trigger(s). The OEM sear in the 9mm seemed very smooth, crisp and nice (2k rds) but somewhat heavy on pull. The Apex made a dramatic difference in the 9.

The Shield45 had a 5lb pull with the OEM sear. (Can you believe that? Thats pretty great!)

The Apex style modification yielded me about 4 ozs along with high finish polishing on the sear and the loop.

I havent compared it to the Instructional PDF yet and I might have been too conservative on cutting the bevel into it. Better to take off too little than too much .....so I might go back in and dress it down some more.

Heading to Houston this weekend to see the kids and grandkids so Ill take it with me and get some range time down there to see how it feels in practice instead of theory.

 

[ontargetagain]

UPDATE:
I picked up the the Hogue GripAll grip not because I found the OEM too aggressive but simply because I wanted a bit more girth and a little cushion in the web of my hand. A real pain the arse to put on but quite a comfortable grip overall and it does nice to absorb a bit of the vibration through the hard plastic grip so I am very pleased with it!

Karl

 

[bsmiley]

Interesting reading and I respect what you're doing Dad_Roman.
I'm in my mid 40s and I remember when Glocks and striker pistols first hit the market. Learning a DA/SA took some practice and you learned to feel the trigger.
I'm glad Apex did the engineering and perfected the manufacturing to mass produce their parts and kits. It shows me that S&W chose not to continue engineering the sear and plunger further.
I believe Apex makes a healthy profit on each part and every kit. I applaud that and they deserve every penny. What you get for your money makes a great trigger system for a small total investment.
Its also freedom. People can choose to just put in the sear and some time polishing, or they can do an aluminum trigger, or a whole kit. Spend as little or as much as they want.
Its a great era when you can get an amazingly reliable and quality pistol for such a low price. Great warranty and excellent after market products to make it suit your tastes and needs.
I do get a kick when someone tries the Apex sear and feels the difference.

 

[greeenteeee]

I did not modify the factory sear but instead put in a replacement Apex sear and polished it. Is that what you are doing or are you modifying the factory sear? And thanks!
Karl

Great thread! I've been going into this myself, and only went with the Sear as the rear sight removal was intimidating (and potentially with aesthetically negative side effects if I screw up). Luckily in about 500 rounds, the take-up is pretty smooth.

I was debating polishing the Apex sear-- the finish/color was off so I was concerned about it. Maybe I'll go back in.

Pic #3 shows a high polish on the loop.


First....the actual Apex sear in the Shield9. Initially the OEM sear had a 6.5lb pull. The Apex sear brought it down to 5lb with no additional work, polishing etc.

Second....the modified Apex style sear in the Shield45. Now to be perfectly honest here, I am not some longtime gun sporter nor am I intimately familiar with trigger variations. I am however somewhat mechanically inclined. That being said, I will also admit that my particular Shield45 (and the wife's) seemed to have an excellent trigger(s). The OEM sear in the 9mm seemed very smooth, crisp and nice (2k rds) but somewhat heavy on pull. The Apex made a dramatic difference in the 9.

The Shield45 had a 5lb pull with the OEM sear. (Can you believe that? Thats pretty great!)

The Apex style modification yielded me about 4 ozs along with high finish polishing on the sear and the loop.

I havent compared it to the Instructional PDF yet and I might have been too conservative on cutting the bevel into it. Better to take off too little than too much .....so I might go back in and dress it down some more.

Heading to Houston this weekend to see the kids and grandkids so Ill take it with me and get some range time down there to see how it feels in practice instead of theory.

Indeed better to be conservative than too aggressive!

Though, I've had this apart 2 times now. I'm concerned with the roll pins as they get borderline tough to punch back in place. I wouldn't be surprised if the pin's diameter at the ends were getting larger from tapping on it.

Here's my loop:

The second time I played with the loop to try to mess with over-travel.

 

[Dad_Roman]

I havent been messin with the loop. Lemme get this "sear" thing down first. One step at a time

Thats a great picture of your sears, OEM/Apex. I have been really regretting not having a pic of the Apex sear before I put it in.

It gets hard to judge where to go when your cutting that new ramp from memory

......and us ole farts memory aint worth beans anyhow

Good stuff...movin forward. Gonna shoot the ole girl this weekend and see what she says. Will advise!


EDIT: Roll pins...yea a tube naturally flares when you hammer on the end of it but we are talking "thousandths" here and that pin is plenty long. Just bevel the ends a touch to take the flare back off

 

[PaPow]

A little background, I am a revolver guy LOL. I relinquished a beautiful S&W E Series 1911 a few months ago to a good friend who is making it a safe queen so I know it got a good home

My favorite gun to shoot is my 625 5" 45acp revolver, I guess I like the 45acp round as I have had several 9mm full sized semi-autos and I don't keep them long. Reading all the positive reviews on the Shield 45 I just got mine and took it out first time to the indoor range. I am a reloader, I don't buy factory ammo though I did buy a box of Federal 230gr to shoot first in the Shield so that if there were any issues with feed and eject I could eliminate my reloads. The factory trigger on mine as measured with Lyman digital was close to 7lbs, not something I am at all used to but really didn't feel that bad. After checking the trigger again after shooting is settled in more in the 6lb 5oz range. Yes it has some grittiness but not a lot of take up and a pretty decent break and minimal overtravel to the stop.
Now, I primarily shoot plated SWC's bullets, I use several different powders too, I had 4 or 5 powders in reloads with the SWC's with me and I tried them all, and they ALL worked fine! Only slight issue was feeding in the first round but no issues on feed and eject so that made me quite happy!

My thoughts, I didn't expect as much as I got for what I paid for this gun, I have taking a liking to it and am giving it respect. Since I like to tinker and I will upgrade the feel of the trigger and reduce the break by adding an Apex sear, the rest I will polish up and study as it comes apart, YES I could shoot it just as it is, YES it shot surprisingly accurate for such a small sight radius. I know I will shoot it even better as I refine the trigger but that is what I like to do with all my guns and I understand why it can't be refined as a 'production' gun. I thinks S&W has a great gun here in this 45 Shield, I'm going to really enjoy it and after putting 100 rounds through it in about 45 mins I had no complaints on how it felt in my hands and they are about a good medium+ size and I am not a big guy at 160lbs. If you are on the fence post about this gun, I suggest you get one, not likely you will regret the small amount spent for the satisfaction and potential it offers!
Just my opinions......
Karl

**Update** 4/11
I installed the Apex sear only part #100-163. Wow! I am now at sub 5# pulls (4lb 7oz to 4lb 13oz) and with a crisper cleaner break. A very nice feel to the trigger overall. Off to the range tomorrow to try it out These upgrades are more for my pursuance of more like a target trigger, this is NOT a carry gun for me.
More to come.............
**See post #22 for update report**
**See post #25 for Striker block plunger update** 4/29/17

Could you please post all the APEX items and their part numbers you used in your build please...?

 

[Shield9mm]

Could you please post all the APEX items and their part numbers you used in your build please...?

I bet you didn't read the thread...I installed the Apex sear only part #100-163

 

[ontargetagain]

Great thread! I've been going into this myself, and only went with the Sear as the rear sight removal was intimidating (and potentially with aesthetically negative side effects if I screw up). Luckily in about 500 rounds, the take-up is pretty smooth.

I was debating polishing the Apex sear-- the finish/color was off so I was concerned about it. Maybe I'll go back in.

Indeed better to be conservative than too aggressive!

Though, I've had this apart 2 times now. I'm concerned with the roll pins as they get borderline tough to punch back in place. I wouldn't be surprised if the pin's diameter at the ends were getting larger from tapping on it.

Here's my loop:

The second time I played with the loop to try to mess with over-travel.

Your 'loop' looks much better than the profile on mine, mine was a little rough and not evenly flat like yours, however it all works just fine!
Nice work on the polishing job
Karl

 

[ontargetagain]

I havent been messin with the loop. Lemme get this "sear" thing down first. One step at a time

Thats a great picture of your sears, OEM/Apex. I have been really regretting not having a pic of the Apex sear before I put it in.

It gets hard to judge where to go when your cutting that new ramp from memory

......and us ole farts memory aint worth beans anyhow

Good stuff...movin forward. Gonna shoot the ole girl this weekend and see what she says. Will advise!


EDIT: Roll pins...yea a tube naturally flares when you hammer on the end of it but we are talking "thousandths" here and that pin is plenty long. Just bevel the ends a touch to take the flare back off

Be careful when you do change the gap on the loop as if you have to close it down make sure to protect the finish you polished on the loop and don't mar it with pliers! LOL
Nice info you have shared and a job well done and shown that others can also benefit from.
Karl

 

[Shield9mm]

I will be installing the apex duty carry kit this weekend, the factory trigger pull on mine is around 6lb will see how much improvement I'll get.

Already polished the SB.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Nakanokalronin]

I bet you didn't read the thread...I installed the Apex sear only part #100-163

Did they redesign the 45 sear? I put one of my unused 45 Apex sears I had on hand for a regular M&P 45 in my 45 Shield and it dropped it down to a 3lb pull. Not something I'd want on a carry gun.