Shield .45 Slide Lube

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Yes, lube it! I have the Shield 45 and keep it well lubed with grease and it performed well. I lube everything that moves or has a contact point that moves.
 
Yes, lube it! I have the Shield 45 and keep it well lubed with grease and it performed well. I lube everything that moves or has a contact point that moves.



7 points only require lube.
I use reg oil on my 45 shield. So far after 600 or so rds it still works fine hasnt failed once.

No need to over lube your weapon.
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Rail contact points I use slip 2000 EWG grease. Just oil everywhere else. I do this with all my pistols/rifles. There's no one right way, I just like the EWG as it's slick, thicker and doesn't attract dirt, cleans easy.
 
Not Shield specific, but I usually prefer a light oil like Rem Oil on slide rails. It does not last as long between applications as a heavier grease or oil, but does not thicken in cold weather, and slow down the slide function. Probably a moot point in warmer climates.

Larry
 
Rail contact points I use slip 2000 EWG grease. Just oil everywhere else. I do this with all my pistols/rifles. There's no one right way, I just like the EWG as it's slick, thicker and doesn't attract dirt, cleans easy.

I like Slip 2000 EWG, too. I've used it on my Shield 45 ever since it was new. It now has 6,100 rounds through it, and there is no sign of any unusual wear. I use EWG on all seven lube points, because, a) it doesn't migrate, and b) the two tubes I bought will last for years. Because it doesn't migrate, I modify S&W's lube instructions by spreading a thin layer of EWG all over the barrel, rather than just putting a small drop/glob of it on the top.
 
I like Slip 2000 EWG, too. I've used it on my Shield 45 ever since it was new. It now has 6,100 rounds through it, and there is no sign of any unusual wear. I use EWG on all seven lube points, because, a) it doesn't migrate, and b) the two tubes I bought will last for years. Because it doesn't migrate, I modify S&W's lube instructions by spreading a thin layer of EWG all over the barrel, rather than just putting a small drop/glob of it on the top.

Kinda like you. I do smear a light film inside of slide top, and exterior of barrel.

I just started using my small tube of grease, as I'd recently emptied my syringe, kinda miss the syringe..

I don't noticed cold weather thickness, and while I seldom shoot pistols in the freezing cold, my BCGs are still buttery smooth in winter. It's slick enough that my 1911-22 has no cycling issue with same application process.

No one way is the only way, but I really like this stuff.
 
Factory advice is always good to follow. They made the gun. They know how to keep it running. They presume at least a basic level of maintenance—cleaning, inspection, re-lubrication, and that you use good quality ammo. They also presume average use, which for most people is only a few hundred rounds per year, under average range conditions, which are not too stressful for the pistol.

However, if you shoot a lot, like thousands of rounds through your pistol a year, outdoors under adverse conditions with dust and dirt and temperature extremes, perhaps with crappy ammo that is dirty or underpowered, you may have different needs for lubrication and maintenance than the average gun.

My guidelines are, any lubrication is better than no lubrication.
Too much lubrication is better than no lubrication.

Oil is fine if you clean often and reapply, but it evaporates and wears away rather quickly and can leave you with almost no lubrication. Re-lubricating between cleanings is a good idea if you want to go hundreds of rounds between cleanings and multiple range sessions. Lack of librication accelerates wear, increases friction and induces stoppages.

Lubrication can attract contaminants. This can have a similar effect to lack of lubrication, but nowhere near as fast or serious. Actually, for most modern pistols, I find tolerances are loose enough for dirty lube to allow a gun to run even a thousand rounds or more without cleaning under average conditions.

I generally use grease on parts that slide against each other, fast, and can generate heat. That is what grease is for. It stays in place, does not evaporate or run off. If I’m shooting outdoors in a dirty environment, I clean more often. Generally, I go about 1,000 rounds between cleanings with no additional lubrication. I can feel when my guns need cleaning/lubrication by running the action. I don’t get stoppages related to lack of lubrication or cleaning. I use quality ammo.

This is one of those areas in shooting where there are a lot of different opinions. Almost none of them are wrong. If you don’t shoot much, follow the manual and clean often. If you shoot a lot, you will develop your own maintenance and lube schedules and use products you like.

I especially like to go a little heavy on lube for a new gun until it is broken in (400-500 rounds), and I clean new guns more frequently. However, I also polish mating parts on a new gun to reduce friction and speed up the break in process, so others may have different approaches.

Lube, shoot, clean. Repeat. Have fun with your new gun.
 
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Living here in a dry climate of the Mojave Desert, it doesn't work well to over lube any pistol. Too much lube here and it attracts dust and body ash like crazy.

I use two drops of Tetra Gun lube on my Shield .45 (and my 9 mm Shield) and that keeps them both running very well.

Now in a more humid climate, or course maybe a light coast of some oil to inhibit rust.
 
I use Krieghoff gun glide on everything, basically because I have a lot of it, but it works well. Works real good on my M-1 opp rod and receiver too. I'm sure any quality gun grease will work well when used correctly.
 
every one has there own method. i tried grease once and only once and that was on my mini 30. made more mess than it was worth. i stand by lucas gun oil stays put longer than any other oil ive use and does not burn off. once you run some rounds through your gun you will see the shiny spots on the rails, that where you want your lube
 
Extreme Force by Advanced Weapons Technology. Tremendous reviews on Amazon and I can safely say this is the best gun lubricant I have used. Easy to apply, stays put, and very effective. I know a lot of folks swear by lithium grease but I find it messy and a magnet for dirt and fibers.
 
I lube each of those locations after cleaning my M&P semi autos. I use and like Birchwood Casey Synthetic gun oil. I may also lube the guns again between cleanings, especially my EDC ones, as I rountinely brush off the lint and fuzz and wipe them down. I test the action during those times and if it's been a month or so, I will relube the gun during this maintenance. I only use a scant drop of the BC oil in each location, but when I lube the rails and the rail grooves in the slide, after placing a drop of lube in place, I use a small short bristled make up brush that I cleaned and repurposed after my wife was ready to discard it. It works very very well to distribute the lubrication on the rails, etc as well as on each of the other indicated locations shown above from the owner's manual. After lubing, I work the action a few times to further distribute the oil. I do not have any oil dripping or running from any location. I know how the action feels after cleaning and lubing, and at any point during my regular wiping down and brushing off that I detect a diminished feeling of lubrication, I'll relube. This works very well for me. I always have enough lube in place when I go shooting to handle two or three hundred rounds, after which I clean things up and relube once again, yet I never have lubrication leaking out anywhere to collect dust and grime.

I really do like using the small brush to spread the small drop of BC oil lube in each of the places where it is recommended in the manual. And I have had NO issues with my gun being lubed and ready to go every day!
 
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