JNewell
Member
I do, and have been for decades. Call me a dino...
Shield out of battery - time to revisit this issue
- Thread starter Lost Lake
- Start date
I do, and have been for decades. Call me a dino...
Quotes from the guy who originally noticed this behavior on CCF:
the M&P line is solid other than the shield, and that problem seems to work itself out after the gun is properly broken in.
...and youve seen me criticize the shield for the same reason. now that its worn in it doesnt happen anymore so i can once again consider it reliable.
the M&P line is solid other than the shield, and that problem seems to work itself out after the gun is properly broken in.
...and youve seen me criticize the shield for the same reason. now that its worn in it doesnt happen anymore so i can once again consider it reliable.
Stratajema
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I would add that what people have been concerned and frustrated about is the inconsistancy of the problem occurring for a particular gun. For example, some of the Shields and Springfield XDS's would hang out of battery (during a press check or during holstering/removal) and yet others would not. I believe with the XDS the source of this problem was traced back to the extractor needing replacement. With the XDS hanging out of battery, pressing lightly on the external extractor caused it to go back into battery. So it is a matter of tracking down the different sources of the problem with each make of a gun.
As was posted earlier by someone else, below is a link to a video of the problem involving the Shield. Applying a very light coat of grease to the disconnector bump on the Shield's slide could also help.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdxAMLDFSZc&feature=youtu.be
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In the video robkarrob shows the Shield goes into battery when the trigger is pulled, but what he doesn't show is it will not fire.
I have the same issue with my Shield, and if it is OOB and the trigger is pulled quickly like it would be in a self defense shooting, the gun doesn't fire. A second pull of the trigger will then cause the gun to fire.
Of course on a striker fired pistol you don't practice a second pull of the trigger. You sling shot the slide and attempt to fire again.
This is the only problem my Shield has, and S&W couldn't repair it. So for now it is a range gun only.
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I have the same issue with my Shield, and if it is OOB and the trigger is pulled quickly like it would be in a self defense shooting, the gun doesn't fire. A second pull of the trigger will then cause the gun to fire.
Of course on a striker fired pistol you don't practice a second pull of the trigger. You sling shot the slide and attempt to fire again.
This is the only problem my Shield has, and S&W couldn't repair it. So for now it is a range gun only.
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Stratajema
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Lost Lake, I am curious if your Shield still hangs out of battery with a FMJ round in the chamber if you have:
1. Put a thin coating of grease on the disconnector bump on the slide.
2. Put a very thin coating of oil or grease on the loading ramp (not to be confused with the feed ramp). If one uses grease then it has to be a very thin coating because you do not want a round to drag grease into the chamber.
3. Removed one round from the magazine to reduce the pressure of the rounds in the magazine that are pressing against the loading ramp.
The above were used to alleviate an out of battery condition on the Walther PPS.
1. Put a thin coating of grease on the disconnector bump on the slide.
2. Put a very thin coating of oil or grease on the loading ramp (not to be confused with the feed ramp). If one uses grease then it has to be a very thin coating because you do not want a round to drag grease into the chamber.
3. Removed one round from the magazine to reduce the pressure of the rounds in the magazine that are pressing against the loading ramp.
The above were used to alleviate an out of battery condition on the Walther PPS.
OpsMgr
US Veteran
That is a shame - Know that has got to tick you off.
How many rounds have you fired in your Shield and what lube do you use?
I haven't fired many rounds through it, maybe 150 to 200 now. I have cycled the action probably 500 times or more trying to break things in and smooth it out. I need to dig out a dremel with a cloth wheel and hit the bump and the disconnect lever with polishing compound.
I was using Break Free CLP and TW25b grease, now I've switched it over to Frog Lube hoping that would fix it, but it didn't.
I really think the disconnector bump is adding drag to the slide.
Mine is to the point where it almost works. A good shake makes the action close. I just need to get it that last little bit.
It doesn't bother me that I don't carry it. Today I have shorts on and have a 642 in my pocket. With jeans I carry a 3913 IWB. What I liked about the Shield is I could carry that when I crawl around under the truck or work where I may damage the gun.
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OpsMgr
US Veteran
IMO, the ONLY way to break in a new pistola is with plenty of live fire at the range. Try running her wet with BF CLP and put another 250 or so rounds down range as it sounds like it is getting better - I think you need a few more rounds fired before you get there. I used BF CLP for years but now use Eezox. Bought some FL but I'm not drinking that Kool-Aid just yet.
FWIW, I NEVER press a new pistol into carry duty until it has fired at least 500 rounds.
FWIW, I NEVER press a new pistol into carry duty until it has fired at least 500 rounds.
bearfoot
US Veteran
my 2 cts. i'm over 70. i never check a pistol to make it OOB. if i have a weapon on my person when i walk out the door. "it's loaded". it could be made OOB by getting out of the car, bumping a doorway. but i just reach down and hold the grip-press the thumb on the rear of the slide. this can be done w/ shirt over w/ a few practice times. i use a retention holster, don't like the nylon holsters. i know the weapon will be in the same position unless i get knocked down. most holsters are longer than the end of the slide. less chance of an OOB. your trainning/self knowledge will work in a situtation. stay alert- keep safe.
Stratajema
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Striker fire guns do not require a break-in period. They only require a period in which to prove their reliability. Anybody with the OOB problem would just be wasting ammo. It has been reported by others that no amount of live firing and dry firing will totally correct the problem but rather just slightly improve the situation.
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OpsMgr
US Veteran
And just what do you base that statement on?
feelinlucky
Member
Not true. Any firearm can require a break-in.
Stratajema
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Well made striker fire guns do not require a break-in period. If a striker fire gun needs a break-in period, then it is poorly made. (e.g. suffers from the stacking of tolerances during manufacturing or poor quality control measures)
1911 guns have a different design and require a break-in period.
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JNewell
Member
Sorry, that's nonsense. Example: many all-metal Kahrs definitely require a break-in period, and are clearly not "poorly made."
You are kidding right?
I hope so at least.
As engineering and manufacturing tolerances get tighter, the need for a break in period increases it does not decrease. Tight guns need more break in than loose guns.
There is nothing magic about a 1911 or hammer fired handgun that changes the requirements for a break in compared to a striker fired weapon.
You can pull an original military issue 1911 out of the box and its sloppy as hell compared to a M&P. It will shoot just fine out of the box.
Modern CNC machined 1911s need break in because they are tight not because they are 1911s.
When I first qualified with the 1911, we cleaned them by field striping all the guns, dumping all the parts into the same pan of solvent with no regard to which part went on which gun. Once they were clean we put them back together with with whatever part we grabbed first. As long as all the guns got put back together and passed the function test all was good.
By your standard, all the 1911s would have needed to be broken in again before we could carry them.
Breaking in a gun is the process of the gun parts lapping themselves to each other. The tighter the gun, the more break in needed.
OpsMgr
US Veteran
Your stating this for second time is laughable. Some of the nonsense posted on the interwebz never ceases to amaze me.
Again, what in the wide world of sports are you basing your statement on???
I'm happy to announce, that S&W replaced half of my Shield to correct OOB and slide was not locking open after last round. both problems were corrected.
Parts replaced:
striker britt rev c.
Slide M&P 9mm slim
9 mm BBL Slim (any one knows what is this????)
shield recoil guide rod
takedown latch shield
locking block shield rev b
mag catch shield rev. b
S.H.B. Shield mim rev a (what is this????)
trigger bar rev a
Shield frame ship kit
manual safety rev. B
front sight shield MIM rev B
thanks S&W!
Parts replaced:
striker britt rev c.
Slide M&P 9mm slim
9 mm BBL Slim (any one knows what is this????)
shield recoil guide rod
takedown latch shield
locking block shield rev b
mag catch shield rev. b
S.H.B. Shield mim rev a (what is this????)
trigger bar rev a
Shield frame ship kit
manual safety rev. B
front sight shield MIM rev B
thanks S&W!
