modraker
Member
No vise, no sight tool, no problem.
Shield sights are tight but the hacksaw technique always works.
Shield sights are tight but the hacksaw technique always works.
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Shield Sight Removal
- Thread starter modraker
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Shield sights are tight but the hacksaw technique always works.
Nice! Did you have any trouble mounting the new sights? Trying to figure out if it's the stock shield sights that are oversized vs undersized dovetail. I ran into a big-time problem trying to remove my shield sights (cracked slide rails) so now pistol is back at S&W for slide replacement. I think that I will try your technique when it comes back.
OP
modraker
Member
The Ameriglo sights needed some sanding before they would go in with just a small punch and a gunsmith's hammer. I ran the bottom of each sight over 200 grit sandpaper until I could push it halfway through the slot. Then I used a brass punch to get it in all the way. Sorry, I'm not sure if the S&W sight is too big or the slot is tight.
Be careful when you get close to the slide surface. I went one stroke too many with the hacksaw and nicked the plastic spring cap of the striker block.
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As I have pointed out many times on various threads related to this topic, the sights on S&W M&P and 3rd Gen pistols have always been VERY tight. They are installed by a hydraulic press while the slide is held in a fixture. Front and rear are installed by the press, which pushes both sights into the slide dovetails at the same.
They are intentionally made exceedingly tight to avoid being knocked out of alignment during rough handling, dropping, etc., which is more common than most casual users might imagine with service pistols.
The need for the little set screw has always been sort of a mystery, as a proper installation in a dovetail results in the sights staying in place even if the screw is completely missing. Note that many fixed sights do not have set screws at all.
Unfortunately, many people do not understand this, and they believe that simply unloosening the screw will allow easy sight replacement. More sights and slides have been damaged by this bit of kitchen table "gunsmithing" than almost anything else apart from attempted installation of "spring kits."
Occasionally, I read of a poster who says his sight was easily removable once the screw was loosened. However, if you loosen the little set screw and your sight is easily removable (like with a drift and hammer), then you have a defective sight or slide which should go back to S&W for repair or replacement. Sights that are loose enough to allow removal that easy will drift on their own from the high speed movement of the slide or from a drop or constant smacking of the sight against the steering wheel, door jamb, etc.
The kind of forces involved in that reciprocating slide cause all sorts of havoc with sights that are only held on with the tiny screw, as even loctite will eventually give way.
Don't forget that removal of the rear sight allows access to certain moving parts - another reason for the sight to be really tight. Loctite can and has run down into the slide, and that repair job is really pricey. And don't expect S&W to fix it under warranty - they may, but if they do, it is only out of kindness, not out of legal obligation.
They are intentionally made exceedingly tight to avoid being knocked out of alignment during rough handling, dropping, etc., which is more common than most casual users might imagine with service pistols.
The need for the little set screw has always been sort of a mystery, as a proper installation in a dovetail results in the sights staying in place even if the screw is completely missing. Note that many fixed sights do not have set screws at all.
Unfortunately, many people do not understand this, and they believe that simply unloosening the screw will allow easy sight replacement. More sights and slides have been damaged by this bit of kitchen table "gunsmithing" than almost anything else apart from attempted installation of "spring kits."
Occasionally, I read of a poster who says his sight was easily removable once the screw was loosened. However, if you loosen the little set screw and your sight is easily removable (like with a drift and hammer), then you have a defective sight or slide which should go back to S&W for repair or replacement. Sights that are loose enough to allow removal that easy will drift on their own from the high speed movement of the slide or from a drop or constant smacking of the sight against the steering wheel, door jamb, etc.
The kind of forces involved in that reciprocating slide cause all sorts of havoc with sights that are only held on with the tiny screw, as even loctite will eventually give way.
Don't forget that removal of the rear sight allows access to certain moving parts - another reason for the sight to be really tight. Loctite can and has run down into the slide, and that repair job is really pricey. And don't expect S&W to fix it under warranty - they may, but if they do, it is only out of kindness, not out of legal obligation.
OP
modraker
Member
Aftermarket Parts
There are those in this forum who advocate leaving firearms in their stock condition and I respect their opinion. However, there is a whole aftermarket industry that thrives on providing parts that shooting enthusiasts want. I say that if the gun is for self defense, we should all be more judicious in which factory parts we can replace. If the gun is for fun, then let's have fun putting in the parts we enjoy.
There are those in this forum who advocate leaving firearms in their stock condition and I respect their opinion. However, there is a whole aftermarket industry that thrives on providing parts that shooting enthusiasts want. I say that if the gun is for self defense, we should all be more judicious in which factory parts we can replace. If the gun is for fun, then let's have fun putting in the parts we enjoy.
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SmurfHunter
Member
Which site pusher have people had the best results with?
robkarrob
Member
No question, if your going to throw the stock sights out, a hacksaw cut will remove metal and reduce the pressure on the dovetail joint. Another member posted that he froze the slide and the sight just tapped out easily. Very possible as metal shrinks when cold and could make this an easy way to remove the sight. I will give this a try, the next time I need to remove a sight.
I have always used the tried and true: bench vice, hammer, and punch. I tape the end of the punch up, to eliminate marking the sight. Then one pound on the punch, turn the punch to another fresh taped area, and pound again. Check the tape and pound again. It will eventually start moving. You just have to be careful to not miss and hit the slide, and always hit the sight on the meaty portion, of the sight.
You have to use common sense when using a sight pusher. You can cause damage to your slide, and may still not get the sight off. A forum poster, a week ago, said he cracked his slide using a sight pusher. Not all sight pushers are going to work the same. I have seen some very well designed and made with strong metal and a hefty pusher screw. I have also seen others that were poorly designed, flimsy, and cheaply made. This also goes for the gun owners. Not all are created equal and some end up doing something the wrong way. Hopefully they learn from their mistakes. I do, most of the time, but not all the time.
Bob
I have always used the tried and true: bench vice, hammer, and punch. I tape the end of the punch up, to eliminate marking the sight. Then one pound on the punch, turn the punch to another fresh taped area, and pound again. Check the tape and pound again. It will eventually start moving. You just have to be careful to not miss and hit the slide, and always hit the sight on the meaty portion, of the sight.
You have to use common sense when using a sight pusher. You can cause damage to your slide, and may still not get the sight off. A forum poster, a week ago, said he cracked his slide using a sight pusher. Not all sight pushers are going to work the same. I have seen some very well designed and made with strong metal and a hefty pusher screw. I have also seen others that were poorly designed, flimsy, and cheaply made. This also goes for the gun owners. Not all are created equal and some end up doing something the wrong way. Hopefully they learn from their mistakes. I do, most of the time, but not all the time.
Bob
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I read one account where a guy set his pistol in the Apex armorers block then inserted a punch in his drill press and of course without turning it on just used the press to slowly push it out. Before going to far he removed it and placed in his vice then used the tool provided my Apex to hold the cap under the slide in place on the rear. Front came out this way too. Haven't tried but might work.
robkarrob
Member
That method should work in a bench vice, if the vice opens wide enough. Same principle only instead of pulling the drill press shaft down, you crank the vice closed. Problem with both is keeping the pusher aligned properly, until the sight is moved far enough to tap it out.
Bob
Bob
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OP
modraker
Member
Before I went to the hacksaw, I tried the penetrating oil and freezer method. I soaked the rear sight in Liquid Wrench for 24 hours and then I put the slide assembly in the freezer for another 24. Unfortunately, as the sight shrank so did the metal around it. If I could have frozen just the sight, I'm sure it would have worked.
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OP
modraker
Member
I'm sure the above procedure will work. Now, pray you never have to adjust that sight.
OP
modraker
Member
That flat blade across the entire bottom would have the best chance of moving those stubborn Shield sights.
jumm
Member
Freezing sight
Warm the slide a little , get a can of compressed air, turn upside down, and it will be frozen when coming out. spray just a little on the sight U want to come out. Then press it out.
Warm the slide a little , get a can of compressed air, turn upside down, and it will be frozen when coming out. spray just a little on the sight U want to come out. Then press it out.
SundownIII
Member
Just wondering if anyone has tried the Compound W (wart remover) for freezing the rear sights on a Shield.
Seems like it might work since it's basically just liquid nitrogen.
I'd like to install the Apex kit in my Shield 40, but I still haven't been able to justify (mentally), spending $120 or so for a sight pusher for a one time action.
Maybe I just need to "bite the bullet" and buy the pusher. Then offer it up for "rental" for say $10 and shipping. Looks like the MGW Sight Mover may be the best option. They have a tool designed specifically for the Shield.
Anyone have any experience with the MGW Sight Mover?
Seems like it might work since it's basically just liquid nitrogen.
I'd like to install the Apex kit in my Shield 40, but I still haven't been able to justify (mentally), spending $120 or so for a sight pusher for a one time action.
Maybe I just need to "bite the bullet" and buy the pusher. Then offer it up for "rental" for say $10 and shipping. Looks like the MGW Sight Mover may be the best option. They have a tool designed specifically for the Shield.
Anyone have any experience with the MGW Sight Mover?
