Shooting .44Mag/.44Sol In Same Gun??

[castleadslinger]

Just reading your post right after I wrote my last one. Now, yours is a definite, "wish I had a tool like he's got". You should patten that. It would sell.

I really like the concept but I'm not sure many would buy into it. Most would shun away when seeing a tool being inserted into the cylinder chamber. Seeing or experiencing it first hand and having used it several times over. It works really well at removing the crud ring from the cylinder. I'm just surprised a well known company hasn't came up one yet. But then again, there would have to be a large demand for such an item.

So, that notwithstanding. I don't plan on fighting this battle again anytime soon. I understand it must not be a really unique problem but it's just one I'd never experienced. One thing that continues to puzzle me is the limited number of rounds that has been through this gun. It is a 629-4 and in pristine condition. I had never owned a .44 Mag and wanted one. After I got it I probably have only put no more than a few hundred rounds through it and put it back in the safe. My concentration has been on .357/.38, .45ACP and 9mm. I didn't even have dies to reload .44. So, I got to thinking, if you're going to just leave the .44 in the safe and not shoot it, you might as well sell it. Couldn't do it. So enter my involvement with reloading for it and I'm glad I'm doing it. I just don't think there has been enough rounds put through this gun by everyone who's owned it to cause this. If I'm wrong, then I'm wrong. Just another day in the life and I'm interested in
what someone else has to say after eyeballing it.

We all had to start somewhere. In time, you will learn just how enjoyable a 44 actually is and it's diversatility. I could throw some salt in your wound and tell you that your 44 Mag can shoot 44 Russian and how the 44 Russian can make your 44 Mag feel like your shooting a 45 acp revolver. Same thing goes for 357 Mag. It can shoot the 38 Short Colt and 38 Long Colt as well. How about some mud in your eye...lol. Then there are 357 Mag and 44 Mag duplex loads that can be shot as well. Like I said....diversatility.

Your tool is a very interesting idea and I'm sure it works great. Thanks for listening to my rant.

Rant all you want. Sometimes, that's how others learn (including myself). One of my favorite quotes is "Failure is the foundation for success".

 

[buck460XVR]

The easiest solution(once you get the chambers clean) is just to load your .44 mag brass to .44 special levels. What I found with my .460 was, that even when .460 ammo would chamber after shooting .45 Colt, the crud left behind would cause higher chamber pressure and also lead to sticky extraction. Loading down my .460 brass to .45 Colt levels for reduced loads eliminated all of it.

 

[ridgewalker]

Get your reading glasses on and look under the ejection star. Clean any crud that gets deposited under there.

 

[Nightowl]

Hornady brass is shorter than most manufacturers brass, in order to make the overall length of their LeverEvolution type bullets. Thats why it will chamber and your loads do not.

For some reason, it seems like you have some really difficult stuff to clean, so the oversize bronze brush chucked into a 1/4 inch drill sounds like the way to go. Do one chamber a lot then check for chambering. Magnum brass in a tenth of an inch longer than Special brass. Work until it chambers, then move on to the next. It might take awhile.

 

[oink]

I was just struggling with the lead removal the other day myself. It brought back memories of academy and earlier practice and qualifications. Later qualifications and Dept sanctioned practice usually used jacketed rounds. When I started casting and reloading I didn't get the leading and I think that was mainly due to the lube I used. It was called Tamarik or Tamarax or something. Shooting made a mess but it pretty much wiped off with little lead requiring scrubbing. I don't really feel like casting bullets anymore which is why i bought commercially cast bullets. They came with hard wax lube and that stuff just doesn't get it. It's back to the old lead cleaning days.

I still use Breakfree to clean and good bronze brushes. I'd still use my old Lewis Lead Remover but I need screens etc. The bronze Chore Boy wrapped around a worn bore brush helps. Also very helpful is Neverdull similarly wrapped around a worn brush is also very helpful. It should be wrapped so it's a tight fit in the cylinder chambers. Don't push it all of the way through as you don't want to resize it. Just keep jabbing it up against the ring. Another aid that works amazingly well is the Miracle Cloth. [ame]https://www.amazon.com/Miracle-Cloth-Purpose-Metal-Cleaning/dp/B000C0B3E0[/ame] Cut into patches for a tight fit they are great for removing lead and fouling and can be used even when black from use. Just don't get them anywhere near a blued gun. They're very effective at removing bluing.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

Hornady brass is shorter than most manufacturers brass, in order to make the overall length of their LeverEvolution type bullets.

Only the factory brass which was loaded with their 140gr FTX bullets are shorter (.050"), or brass someone modified to load them in. Regular factory Hornady brass is the normal length.

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[Joe4d]

You need to measure the chamber throats,, Bet they are in the .429 area and those oregon trail bullets you are using are .431.

 

[sw282]

l had the same trouble after l shot some 45 Colts in my 460S&W.

Finally ended up wrapping a piece of #1200 grit crocus cloth around a

3/8'' dowel rod soaked w/kroil. Spun it SLOWLY w/my cordless DeWalt...

No more problem.

 

[Rule3]

"There are no magic solvents that actually dissolve or remove LEAD."

There is. It's called Mercury. Tough to find but I keep a bottle around for occasional use. Just need to be careful to not spill any.

I have never had a problem in firing .44 Special and .44 Mag interchangeably in both my M29 and my Ruger Super Blackhawk.

Mercury is not sold as a "solvent" at the gun counter. A acid mixture also works. Neither is common or recommended.

 

[castleadslinger]

Sounds like it's time for the ol' Lewis lead remover..

I agree about it's time for an ol' Lewis Lead Remover. There not cheap, but in my opinion, worth every penny. They will clean both the barrel and the cylinder chambers. Buy one kit and it will do 9mm, 38 Special and 357 Magnum. Buy one kit and it will do the 45acp, 44 Special and 44 Magnum.

516-100-045WB Lead Remover Kit, .45 (will do both 45 acp and 44 mag)
Lead Remover Kit, .45 : BROWNELLS LEWIS LEAD REMOVER | Brownells

516-150-038WB Caliber Adapter Kit, 9mm/.38
Caliber Adapter Kit, 9mm/.38 : BROWNELLS LEWIS LEAD REMOVER | Brownells

 

[SLT223]

Buy this kit from harborfreight. Great for cleaning cylinder chambers

Search results for: '69020'

 

[dannyabear]

A copper 'Choar boy for cleaning pots, wrapped around a jag will clean them up good

 

[Forrest r]

A copper 'Choar boy for cleaning pots, wrapped around a jag will clean them up good

+1^^^^

No drama takes less than a minute to clean the cylinder holes with the choreboy/old brush/piece of cleaning rod/drill.

The ring will build up faster when you use rock hard bullets (24bhn) like the op with light loads. Couple that with the hard lube and bevel base.

 

[rwsmith]

One range session.....

I used to shoot .38s first and .357s second. If I shoot about 20-30 rounds I can't get the ..357s in. Now I only reaload the specials in .357 cases. I was adverse to taking a brush to the range with me.

And some powder/bullet combinations are pretty dirty. If I were to shoot jacketed .38s with clean powder I'm sure I could go longer without cleaning. But all of my loads are dirty, especially with lube in groove lead.

 

[Lou_NC]

Get to your nearest Ace Hardware and buy some "Chore Boy" copper scouring pads. Unroll one of the pads a little (2" or so) cut it off and wrap it around a brass bore brush. Work that brush in the cylinder chambers, you should easily remove the fouling/carbon/lead residue. I have an old aluminum cleaning rod that I cut the handle off of, and I chuck it in an electric drill to clean the chambers. Run for about 20 sec on medium speed in each cylinder chamber and you should be good to go. I use Kroil as a lube, but CLP, or even motor oil will work.

Don't get discouraged, this technique is proven, safe, and it just plain works!

Lou

 

[dwpmusic]

Get to your nearest Ace Hardware and buy some "Chore Boy" copper scouring pads. Unroll one of the pads a little (2" or so) cut it off and wrap it around a brass bore brush. Work that brush in the cylinder chambers, you should easily remove the fouling/carbon/lead residue. I have an old aluminum cleaning rod that I cut the handle off of, and I chuck it in an electric drill to clean the chambers. Run for about 20 sec on medium speed in each cylinder chamber and you should be good to go. I use Kroil as a lube, but CLP, or even motor oil will work.

Don't get discouraged, this technique is proven, safe, and it just plain works!

Lou

Thanks a bunch.