Shot the 460 - Now I need to clean it

[Sherm]

Wow. I think that's all I need to say. Shot some 454's then some Hornady 200 gr factory 460's. I like this beast. That being said, this is the first revolver that I have owned although I have shot many. I can get the barrel and the cylinder bores clean. However, on the outside of each cylinder bore, on the outside of the cylinder, there is a persistant dark "stain" that I seem to be unable to remove. Is this some type of carbon burn? I have tried solvent and patches with a ton of rubbing, and solvent with a soft bristled toothbrush with no luck. If this is normal thats fine, but I would of course prefer if I could remove it. I have never had a stainless weapon so I'm not sure how to take care of this.
Thanks for any help, folks.

 

[Sherm]

Wow. I think that's all I need to say. Shot some 454's then some Hornady 200 gr factory 460's. I like this beast. That being said, this is the first revolver that I have owned although I have shot many. I can get the barrel and the cylinder bores clean. However, on the outside of each cylinder bore, on the outside of the cylinder, there is a persistant dark "stain" that I seem to be unable to remove. Is this some type of carbon burn? I have tried solvent and patches with a ton of rubbing, and solvent with a soft bristled toothbrush with no luck. If this is normal thats fine, but I would of course prefer if I could remove it. I have never had a stainless weapon so I'm not sure how to take care of this.
Thanks for any help, folks.

 

[Wheelgunner840]

I occassionaly swipe the front of my stainless steel cylinders with a piece of green "Scotch-brite" cloth. Removes that dark stain pronto. I do not know if this is bad for it, but I don't believe that it removes any steel. Someone else may chime in and say not to use the stuff. I have been using it every once in a while for several years on my stainless guns only. The stuff would most likely remove bluing.

WG840

 

[bluetopper]

The same thing happens to my 629-6.
I just rub it 3 or 4 times with some steel wool and it comes right off. You can't tell I ever done it afterwards and I don't know if this is recommended or not?

 

[stevieboy]

Rub a little bore cleaner on the cylinder face (I like J & B) and then brush with a bronze brush that has been saturated with solvent. The stains will come right off, it only takes about 2 minutes to make your cylinder look brand new. Btw this method also works very well to clean the underside of the topstrap and the area around the forcing cone.

 

[moses]

How about the J&B ob the newer blue/black alloy finishes? any thoughts

 

[Sherm]

Thanks for the replies. The "stain" that I'm referring to is not on the front of the cylinder, but on the outside that faces the public, near the front of the bores.

 

[duckloads]

I use Majic Wadding Polish. It comes in a pint sized tin can from walmart in the automotive section. It will nearly wipe the "burns" clean. Also, it does wonders on the face of the cylinder.

 

[danau]

Hoppes Elite is the best I've found. A few sprays on the sides and front of the cylinder and then a nylon brush. Makes the cylinder look close to new.

 

[stevieboy]

Moses, I don't think that contact with J & B will hurt blued guns. But brushing a blued surface with a bronze brush is a recipe for disaster! With my blued guns I use nothing stronger than a nylon brush or a solvent saturated swab to take off the most easily removable deposits, then wipe down with a lead removal cloth. That gets about 90% and I can live with that.

 

[mbrisbin51500]

Sherm, I have a 329PD with the Titanium cyclinder (and it may be worse then stainless to get the black smudges off the outside of the cylinder.) I wrote S&W an email for suggestions. Their reply was to use a product, that I found at Kmart. It is NEVR-DULL, made by Eagle One. It is described as "wadding polish." Says it cleans and polishes all metals. Best part, a large covered tin was under $2. It worked pretty well. Since then, I tried Birchwood Casey product, "Lead Remover & Polishing Cloth". Cut a small piece and rub on the cylinder, it finished taking the small amount left, off. Again, this was on titanium, but I would certainly think it would work on stainless, too, as I wouldn't want to use anything scratchy. Hope it helps.

 

[JD 500]

Or "lead-away" cloths. (Only on stainless). Will take those black circles away pronto.

 

[Sherm]

That NevrDull is the SHIZNIT!! I had some out in the garage but was leery about using it. I grabbed a bit, rubbed just a little and the junk was gone!! Thanks for the heads-up 51500!!

 

[snuffy smif]

I am sold on J-B bore cleaner. I use it on stainless and blue finishes. It is totally safe on stainless. Go easy on blue, it will remove bluing if you overdo it. For blue finishes I cut the J-B with Hoppes and rub lightly.

 

[Quattro15]

So the Never-Dull stuff will work on Titanium cylinders too?

 

[mbrisbin51500]

The NEVR-Dull (correct spelling) was recommended for my titanium cylinder. The can states it is "Wadding with Petroleum Distallates". It has some warnings on it about keeping it away from heat, sparks and open flames. Avoid prolonged or repeated contact with skin." So, follow all the cautions.

 

[kennyb]

the leadaway clothes (available where gun supplies are carried )work great !

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Here's the link for Kleen-Bore's Lead Away cloth. Birchwood Casey also has a Lead Remover Cloth that works almost as well.

If you can fine the original Lead Away it works a little easier and is usually less expensive.