Should all S&W revolvers have stiffer bolt/stop spring?

[bczrx]

Hello,

I just brought home a 29-2 from around 1979-80. In doing research about the model and what to watch out for, I found a lot of recommendations to use the stiffer Wolff bolt stop/cylinder stop spring in it, to prevent recoil inducing cylinder spin.

That made me wonder if I should do this in other S&W revolvers in .357 caliber, or even .38special.

I have 5 other S&W revolvers dating from 2015 back to 1957, not counting the .22lr revolver.

3 were chambered in .357 mag [but one is now a PPC revolver so is a dediated .38Special gun], and the other 2 are .38special [K38 and Model 10-6].

I doubt the .38 special has enough recoil to worry, but I like to run PPU, PMC and Fiocchi .357 ammo, which produce between 700-810 ft/lbs of ME.

I got to wondering if I should add the stiffer spring for the .357s, or if that wasn't enough power to worry about.

Also, does a .38special need a replacement in general, or only if it begins to spin?

My next order I want to get all that I would need to get- rather than have to order a $2 spring and pay $12 shipping multiple times.

Any thoughts you care to share?

Thank you in advance.

 

[Alk8944]

Shoot the gun before making any changes. Unless you experience unlocking issues with the .44 Magnum there is no reason to do anything. This was only an issue with .44 Magnum revolvers while shooting extremely heavy loads. There is no problem with normal .44 loads and has never been an issue with .357, .38 Spl. or .22 revolvers!

Changes were made to later .44 Magnum revolvers to prevent the problem you refer to. This was the "Endurance Package", and that is installed in all .44 Magnum Model 29-2E, 29-3E, and higher guns. What dash number is your gun?

 

[bczrx]

Thanks for relieving my concerns. I'll leave the smaller bores alone.

Mine is a 29-2, so before the Endurance package came out.

 

[stansdds]

If you stick with bullets weighing no more than 250 grains, chances are you will not have cylinder stop issues with your Model 29-2. The cylinder unlocking during recoil is mostly attributed to shooting full power loads using bullets heavier than 250 grains.

 

[erikpolcrack]

I have a Model 60 in which the cylinder sometimes rotates beyond the next locking slot when firing fast double action. Is replacing the spring the solution for that problem?

 

[Protocall_Design]

I have a Model 60 in which the cylinder sometimes rotates beyond the next locking slot when firing fast double action. Is replacing the spring the solution for that problem?

It will certainly help, can't hurt. Win win.

 

[Jim Watson]

Did the cylinder stop screw, plunger, and spring of the 4 and 5 screw guns give better engagement than the 3 screw spring crammed in from the top?

 

[WR Moore]

Probably not, but it was a whole lot easier to install. Another win for the bean counters.

Back when model 29 cylinders backspaced (before endurance package), the usual villains were excessive endplay and marginal carry up.

 

[cd228]

I have a Model 60 in which the cylinder sometimes rotates beyond the next locking slot when firing fast double action. Is replacing the spring the solution for that problem?

I'd recomend a trip to a S&W Armorer or competent gunmith. I had a similar issue with a colt python. My gunsmith sorted it right out. I forget what he did, but it made a difference.

 

[Hondo44]

I have a Model 60 in which the cylinder sometimes rotates beyond the next locking slot when firing fast double action. Is replacing the spring the solution for that problem?

The cylinder latch/locking bolt most likely just needs a fitting tune up. A new spring probably won't help unless the original spring has been monkeyed with. And it doesn't address the problem which is a slightly worn or poorly fitting latch.

It's a very simple task, doesn't need to go back to the factory, but requires a revolver smith unless you want to google up a GOOD video to learn what to do.

 

[DWalt]

I have a 29-3. It has given reverse cylinder spin instances when using heavy full power loads. OK with firing the somewhat lighter handloads I use 95% of the time. On the occasions when I have experienced reverse spin, the small spring has popped out of the cylinder lock. A heavier spring did not help matters. I fabricated a small simple sheet metal spring retainer (I think I cut it out of a tin can lid) to keep the spring in place and that seemed to solve the spin and spring problem. Even so, I rarely shoot full power loads so reverse spin is a minor issue for me. No plans to shoot polar bears in Alaska with it so I will leave everything just as it currently is. I derive no pleasure from muzzle blast and recoil, as some do. Just wasted energy to me.