Should I carry on an empty cylinder?

rawightman

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I have never carried a revolver only my automatics should I carry a revolver on an empty cylinder?
 
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Did you carry your semis cocked and locked? I carry both and I carry a 357 snubby with all five chambers loaded.
 
It depends on what the revolver is. Some designs are, some designs aren't.

Ask about the guns you have and folks here can tell you.
 
Any modern revolver is safe with a full cylinder. Leaving an empty is a quick way to met your maker if you are ever in a gun fight.
 
No, unless you are carrying a fairly old revolver without modern safety devices. It is completely safe to carry a revolver fully loaded. This of course does not cover undetectable defect, but I've never heard of a modern revolver going off while carried, dropped from 3 or 4 feet etc. JMO.
 
rawightman

Welcome to the forum.
I carry modern revolvers with all chambers loaded. Most revolvers now have rebounding hammers.
Frank
 
If you are carrying any Smith made after WW2, I would say that is not necessary.

If you are carrying an old Colt SAA, then yea...
 
Thanks for the info. Yes I carry my SA xdm with one in the chamber and cocked. I saw a S&W 686 6" the other day in my local gun shop and have decided I want one. On second thought a 4" would be a better carry gun. Third option is tell my wife I need both.
 
should I carry a revolver on an empty cylinder
If you have an 1873 Colt or similar action, then yes, keep the hammer on an empty chamber because the firing pin rests directly on the cartridge. This real safety concern from 100 years ago is erroneously perpetuated to be applicable to all revolvers, which it is definitely NOT.

On any modern double action revolver design with hammer block or similar safety, load all chambers. You can "hammer the hammer" as the old ads said, and it will not fire from hammer down.

And you "need" both 686s! ;)
 
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Thanks for the info. Yes I carry my SA xdm with one in the chamber and cocked. I saw a S&W 686 6" the other day in my local gun shop and have decided I want one. On second thought a 4" would be a better carry gun. Third option is tell my wife I need both.

Take a look at the 2 1/2 and 3 inch 686's, they make the best CCW's IMO. I've got a 2 1/2" 686 plus 7 shot that's a nice CCW gun.
 
I stand corrected the correct wording should have been chamber. Thanks for the correction commander.
 
Actually I stand a good chance of getting both as my wife owns more guns then I do.
 
All modern S&W revolvers have at least one internal safety: the hammer and the rebound slide have contact points that prevent the hammer from moving when the trigger isn't being pulled. When the hammer can't move, the firing pin can't touch the primers. Very safe.

Most modern S&W revolvers have a second, redundant internal safety: an independent hammer block that physically blocks the hammer/firing pin from contacting the primers when the trigger isn't being pulled. (Models with enclosed hammers don't employ this second safety because it is primarily to counter an accidental discharge from a dropped gun -- a non-issue with an enclosed hammer.)

Older (much older) revolvers didn't have these safeties, and that's where the idea of not carrying on a loaded chamber comes from -- there was no protection if the hammer was accidentally, forcefully struck.
 
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I have never carried a revolver only my automatics should I carry a revolver on an empty cylinder?

rawight,

Older revolvers like the hand ejectors, Colt SAAs, breaktops, and the like I sure would carry chamber empty.

But when S&W introduced the steel rebound slide, Colt the safety assembly, and Ruger the transfer bar it became moot.

I pack my revolvers fully loaded, but then they are modern ones like the S&W 642, Colt Cobra, and Ruger Speed Six.
 
You will have to find out if the particular revolver has a firing pin transfer-bar safety. This device allows a revolver to be safely carried with all cylinders loaded. Most modern double action revolvers have them. Some modern single action revolvers do also..but not all. The classic colt single action , clones of it and early 3 screw Ruger Blackhawks do not. To load these you put the hammer on half-cock, load one, skip the next cylinder, load four, bring the hammer to full cock then ease the hammer down...you will have the hammer on the empty cylinder. If your revolver has the transfer - bar it will not fire by dropping or by a blow to the hammer, the trigger must be pulled all the way back for the gun to fire.
Post which revolver you intend to carry, give make and model number and we will tell you if it has transfer-bar.
 
My interest is the S&W 686. I would probly shoot the 38 special mostly when not carrying. I hear that this S&W model is extremely accurate. But to tell the truth the reason I want it is its one of the best looking guns I have ever seen.
 
Check out the 4" 627 Pro. It's a little bigger - about the same weight as the 4" 686 - but carries 8 .357Ms (or .38s). It is moonclip ready and has some great extra features - like a spring-loaded front sight easily changed without tools. It's a little more - $60-$80 more around here new. If you want a snubby, the 2 5/8" PC627 UDR is about another $60 more - and a great 'Performance Center' product - basically their custom shop. It is moonclip ready and X8, too. Here they are with non-OEM grips:

IMG_4599.jpg


I keep 158gr LHPSWC +P .38s moonclipped and in 5starfirearms.com speedloaders for home protection. Actually, other than my homebrew wimpy .357M cased plinkers, all of my .357Ms are just .38s!

Stainz
 
This is not helping my gun addiction. As I like both of them.
Got to go the wife just got home.

Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2
 

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