shutupdata113
Member
I've heard people take the side plate off and LUBE the internals. Is it necessary or not...thanx for any input
should i LUBE my j frame?
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bananaman
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Be it right, or wrong, I have not removed side plates. I don't feel the need to. 1 alternative is to spray internals through trigger & hammer openings with gun scrubber, or similar. (remove grips) Watch for crud dripping out. Repeat if necessary. Let dry well. Shoot in CLP. Let sit, clean up excess. You should be good to go. Bob
I only feel the need to do gun scrubber 1 time. After that light lube is enough.
I only feel the need to do gun scrubber 1 time. After that light lube is enough.
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I think lube is necessary to a point but prolly not near as much as some may think. Some folks with good intentions that I know tend to over-lube. They're wanting reduced friction but also anti-corrosion. It's obvious they believe that if a little is good, more is better. IMO, a small amount on pivot points (hammer/trigger studs, rebound slide, any part that moves, etc) is adequate.
There's a Midway vid on youtube that pretty well covers it.
If you don't feel comfortable in removing the side plate and internals, you may not want to attempt yourself.
ETA: Unless exposed to extremes, side plate removal is NOT required frequently to clean and lube.
There's a Midway vid on youtube that pretty well covers it.
If you don't feel comfortable in removing the side plate and internals, you may not want to attempt yourself.
ETA: Unless exposed to extremes, side plate removal is NOT required frequently to clean and lube.
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The first thing I do when I buy any revolver, new or used, is take the sideplate off, strip it, clean it and lubricate the contact points with small amounts of Gunslick graphite lube. This is like an instant action job.
From the factory the internals are dry as a bone, and with used ones who knows what you might find in there!
I've never seen it myself but have also heard stories of new guns having chips from machining inside, seems like an internet rumor to me but who knows.
From the factory the internals are dry as a bone, and with used ones who knows what you might find in there!
I've never seen it myself but have also heard stories of new guns having chips from machining inside, seems like an internet rumor to me but who knows.
derek45auto
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what ever you do,.....don't PRY the sideplate off.
remove the screws and grips, and gently tap the grip area with a plastic hammer or screw-driver handle.
the vibration will cause the sideplate to lift right off.
found this pic on google...
remove the screws and grips, and gently tap the grip area with a plastic hammer or screw-driver handle.
the vibration will cause the sideplate to lift right off.
found this pic on google...
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You can lube the internals (sparingly) without removing the sideplate. A single DROP once a year or so (assuming normal use) in the following places:
cock hammer and place a drop down in the action
place a drop inside the action through the space behind the trigger
Then, work the action several times. You do NOT want it dripping.
cock hammer and place a drop down in the action
place a drop inside the action through the space behind the trigger
Then, work the action several times. You do NOT want it dripping.
mcmoon03
US Veteran
Traded for a used M36 and took it apart to clean it. I did find carbon inside so heavy oiling will lead to a lot of crud inside over time. I just placed a light coat to prevent rusting and nothing more.
Any S&W revolver I buy (that I am going to shoot) has the side plate removed and an inspection done. If lube needed it is done. Once that plate is put back on it will probably never be removed again by me. S&W revolvers were designed to shoot with minimal lube, and excess lube just attracts dirt and goo/sludge which hinders the action rather than helping.
ginzo
Member
And make SURE you put the screws back in the same holes. The 2 rear screws are generally the same, (but I hear not always). The crane/cylinder screw is definitely different. And BTW, if you take the side plate off, be cautious as you CAN remove the crane/cyl and wouldn't want it to hit the floor. Not a big deal to remove and put aside at that point.
Use the proper size screwdriver also or you WILL bugger up the screws.
End of rant, thank you for your time. YMMV.
Chuck
Use the proper size screwdriver also or you WILL bugger up the screws.
End of rant, thank you for your time. YMMV.
Chuck
what ever you do,.....don't PRY the sideplate off.
remove the screws and grips, and gently tap the grip area with a plastic hammer or screw-driver handle.
the vibration will cause the sideplate to lift right off.
found this pic on google...
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derek45auto
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yep....use the right screwdriver bits...
brownells makes a nice properly sized S&W screwdriver bit set...
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-tip-bit-sets/s-w-revolver-combo-prod406.aspx
brownells makes a nice properly sized S&W screwdriver bit set...
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-tip-bit-sets/s-w-revolver-combo-prod406.aspx
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When tapping the sideplate loose I turn the revolver over so the sideplate just falls on clean cloth.
The sideplate screw under the grip is usually a flathead, also.
When removing the crane turn the cylinder so that a flute will line up w the rounded boss that the crane rests against. Hold the cylinder still and then carefully pull the crane away out of it's hole. This prevents scratching the cylinder.
The sideplate screw under the grip is usually a flathead, also.
When removing the crane turn the cylinder so that a flute will line up w the rounded boss that the crane rests against. Hold the cylinder still and then carefully pull the crane away out of it's hole. This prevents scratching the cylinder.
In over 40 yrs. of carrying and shooting revolvers I've never removed a sideplate and never had a problem. Not being at all mechanically inclined I'd no doubt screw something up. To quote Dirty Harry; "A man has to know his limitations."
If a gun feels gummy, I'll pop the side plate, disassemble and clean and lube. Otherwise I just leave it alone.
Occasionally, I'll put a drop of oil down the hammer and behind the trigger.
Occasionally, I'll put a drop of oil down the hammer and behind the trigger.
66snub
Member
I service the snubbies that my co workers carry off duty as well as the ones carried as a back up gun. I can't tell you how many of them have had rust present inside of the side cover.
Some wire brushing and the use of a quality oil (not RemOil or others that evaporate quickly) are usually the only thing needed to get back to good, proper condition. I don't support the idea that you should take the side cover off more than maybe once a year, unless it's subjected to extremely filthy, dirty, sandy conditions.
Some wire brushing and the use of a quality oil (not RemOil or others that evaporate quickly) are usually the only thing needed to get back to good, proper condition. I don't support the idea that you should take the side cover off more than maybe once a year, unless it's subjected to extremely filthy, dirty, sandy conditions.
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Every gun I buy gets completely stripped, cleaned and lubed. When guns are shipped from the Factory they are not as clean as you might think - some better than others. When acquiring a used gun you almost always do not know the maintenance history or cleanliness of the inside. Once I go through the gun I know it's been done properly.
On guns that I shoot a lot I repeat this process once every few years. On guns that get shot infrequently - less often.
That said, if you are NOT familiar with this disassembly and re-assembly procedure I would say you are a lot better off by NOT opening up the gun and just using a free flowing cleaner - lube - preservative such as Remoil or Rig #2 Oil. These two products will flow and do a reasonably good job without taking the gun apart and they are injected in the guns openings (trigger, hammer, etc.) The gun can be shaken and allowed to "dry out" leaving behind adequate protection and lubrication. Both these products do evaporate so they will not attract dust or unburned powder residue. I would highly recommend one of these two products but definitely stay away from greases, heavy or thick products that do not flow well and or do NOT evaporate relatively quickly.
A third choice is to visit your friendly local gunsmith. Any GS worth his title can perform this in a half hour or so assuming there are no mechanical issues and I can't imagine that it would be too expensive.
If you are really into collecting S&W Revolvers and want to be in charge of your own destiny, select a "Guinea Pig Gun" (not one of your highly valued collectibles) to learn on AFTER getting one of the better GS-ing books like J. Khunhausen's. Since all Smiths are pretty much the same inside (with some minor variations of course) once you master one you won't fear working on the next.
On guns that I shoot a lot I repeat this process once every few years. On guns that get shot infrequently - less often.
That said, if you are NOT familiar with this disassembly and re-assembly procedure I would say you are a lot better off by NOT opening up the gun and just using a free flowing cleaner - lube - preservative such as Remoil or Rig #2 Oil. These two products will flow and do a reasonably good job without taking the gun apart and they are injected in the guns openings (trigger, hammer, etc.) The gun can be shaken and allowed to "dry out" leaving behind adequate protection and lubrication. Both these products do evaporate so they will not attract dust or unburned powder residue. I would highly recommend one of these two products but definitely stay away from greases, heavy or thick products that do not flow well and or do NOT evaporate relatively quickly.
A third choice is to visit your friendly local gunsmith. Any GS worth his title can perform this in a half hour or so assuming there are no mechanical issues and I can't imagine that it would be too expensive.
If you are really into collecting S&W Revolvers and want to be in charge of your own destiny, select a "Guinea Pig Gun" (not one of your highly valued collectibles) to learn on AFTER getting one of the better GS-ing books like J. Khunhausen's. Since all Smiths are pretty much the same inside (with some minor variations of course) once you master one you won't fear working on the next.
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kbm6893
Member
I pop the sideplate on every revolver that comes into my possession. I've seem some gummed up sludge. Only thing I allow to come out is the hammer block. Blast in there with brake cleaner and then lightly lube. Replace sideplate the right way and never do it again.
I'm with the "take it all apart and clean it" crowd.
I am also a believer in running a revolver "wet". I don't pour it in, but I'm liberal with it to say the least. This is advice from a few different revolver smiths and I have yet to have an issue. Too much grease will clog things up in a hurry, made that mistake once, but too much oil hasn't caused me any problems.
I wipe down the excess running out once the side-plate is back on. Avoiding friction inside the action is a good thing.
I am also a believer in running a revolver "wet". I don't pour it in, but I'm liberal with it to say the least. This is advice from a few different revolver smiths and I have yet to have an issue. Too much grease will clog things up in a hurry, made that mistake once, but too much oil hasn't caused me any problems.
I wipe down the excess running out once the side-plate is back on. Avoiding friction inside the action is a good thing.
9mmsubgun-m11
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Is the Gunslick graphite lube a liquid containing graphite or ordinary graphite powder?
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Don't honestly know about the Gunslick, but I would not use it on a Revolver. Graphite can and does jam up the works in lock cylinders that I have used it in and wound up having to flush them out completely. I don't like any lube in a Revolver that is thick, congeals, or attracts dirt and dust. Aside from gunking up the works, Graphite will also stain your clothing, holsters and hands for weeks to come when it starts making its way out of the gun.
I purchased a 337ti never fired from 1999 that was from an estate auction of a collector. When I first worked the action it was stiff. I put mpro-7 in it from the top & behind the trigger then worked the action & proped the gun at different angles so the excess could leech out. I used qtips to clean with the hammer back & what I could get to with the grips off. The action is super smooth now & after 100 rounds no misfires. If it stays this way great if not I'll take it to a gunsmith. I don't consider myself handy enough to remove the sideplate.
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