Should I shoot this?

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Hi. I want to shoot my great grandfathers gun (pics attached) it dates to 1903 production. From my grandmother who told me it was put in the holster when her father in law retired from the RCMP sometime in the 20's or 30's. I am new to shooting as I have just received my governments permission to own firearms (pathetic I know). I am unsure as to what types of ammo would be safe to shoot. Any help is greatly appreciated. I don't ever expect to sell it so reducing the value doesn't mean that much to me. Thanks in advance. Jay
 

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I am not that well schooled on antique weapons but if it were me I'd keep it as a family hareloom just as is. I would be afraid of damaging a gun this old, but will let others w/more expertise weigh in.
 
I don't see anything there that would make me hesitate to shoot it.
you don't say what caliber the revolver is but I assuming it's a .38 spl.
Start out with some light 148gr wad cutters and work your way up, with a gun of that age if it were mine I'd stay away from +p loads just to be on the safe side.
 
There are several people on here that can advise on how to clean it up. Try not to store it in the holster. Most of the corrosion you see is aggravated by storing it in the leather holster.
 
Can you provide better pictures showing the entire gun (both sides), also the serial number on the butt? That will allow someone here to provide more information about it such as its age. It is more than likely a Model of 1902.

There will be likely be no safety problem in shooting it so long as you use standard velocity ammunition, not +P. I am assuming it is chambered in .38 S&W Special. That may be stamped on the barrel.
 
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Hi. I want to shoot my great grandfathers gun (pics attached) it dates to 1903 production.

I am new to shooting as I have just received my governments permission to own firearms (pathetic I know). Any help is greatly appreciated.

I don't ever expect to sell it so reducing the value doesn't mean that much to me.

Sounds like you've got your priorities in line- getting out there and learning to shoot and keeping it in the family.

Please also include photos of the side of the barrel where it says the caliber.

Then I noticed your screen name. Awesome.
 
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Here are a few more pics. It is 38 special. I will be consulting a gunsmith soon. Thanks for all your help. I have been a lurker on here for years but never posted. Serial #46593 All numbers match.
 

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I'm not much of a revolver guy, and I'm sure that I'll be corrected if I'm wrong, but I think .38 Special & .38 S&W Special are two different cartridges.
 
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You have what is called a dual-caliber barrel stamping. The "U. S. Service Cartridge" is the .38 Long Colt, the slightly shorter and less powerful predecessor to the .38 S&W Special. Until around 1911, it indeed was the standard U. S. military revolver cartridge, and continued in limited military use through WWI and a little beyond, but in Colt revolvers. Your gun was never used officially by the U. S. military. The dual-caliber barrel stamping continued in use into at least the SN 100000+ range. SN 46593 indicates that it is a Model of 1902 which probably shipped in 1904. On my list is SN 452xx which shipped in 6/04.

You should have no concerns about shooting it. Use any standard velocity .38 Special ammunition, preferably with lead bullets. The .38 Long Colt cartridge is presently obsolete and you are unlikely to find any of it.
 
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To me, the old gun is beautiful.

Definitely stop storing it in the holster. If you take it to the gunsmith, you might consider leaving it with him and paying for a thorough cleaning inside. No telling how much gunk has accumulated under the sideplate and in the workings. I've had a few old Smiths over the years that I was only too glad to pay someone to disassemble them for cleaning. I'm simply not adept enough to fool around with the innards of a vintage Smith. Don't have the proper tools, anyway.

As I said, it's a great old gun. Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to shoot it some after it's shown to be in good enough shape.
 
If it's in really good shape...

..I'd shoot it, but with target loads. Not saying that it can't take mid range loads, but I try not to strain old guns. I have an old Colt Police Positive that I shoot light loads through. No need to do more with it. I've got heavy duty guns for that.
 
OLD GUN CLEANING AND SAFETY CHECK PROTOCOL FOR HEIRLOOMS & NEW GUN OWNERS:

Simply put, the only usual issue with these marvels of yesteryear is they are gummed up and dirty. Old oils of its time do not match the quality of these old guns nor the science of today, and actually dry up and harden to the point of impeding operation and accelerating wear. The simple solution does not need a gunsmith or removal of the side plate. Just one of many premium modern gun care products from any sporting goods, gun store or hardware store.

Most are both cleaning and preserving agents; Breakfree, Kroil & M-Pro7 are some of the best, and there are others, but do not use WD-40. Disassembly is not necessary. With grips removed and a spray can version of the product, flood and flush the revolver thru every opening and crevice until the black gunk stops flowing out, let it drain for an hour and wipe it down thoroughly with the same product.

Scrub barrel bore and cylinder chambers with a simple cleaning rod kit found at the same places as the cleaning agents above; patches cut from rags is all you really need. And scrub any observed exterior and crevice crud using an old toothbrush with bristles cut off short for stiffness.

You have a quality made, very well engineered, assembled with skilled craftsmanship, and hand fitted revolver, no longer affordable to produce on a competitive market basis, and the likes of which we'll never see again, ever.

To remove grips for cleaning the gun: loosen the grip screw completely and carefully push down on the screw head until the bottom grip separates, then remove. Now carefully push the top side grip off with a finger or toothbrush from the backside thru the grip frame.

The gun is now original and will never have greater value. I would not refinish it and throw away all of the "character" acquired thru its life so far. It will only retain that value by retaining its originality. The only way to make it more original is to remove anything that it did not have on it when new, like any black tarnish or corrosion. Black and dark brown areas thru the blue, on bare metal or where nickel plating is worn off is very unsightly. Areas on nickel guns with no nickel plating left at all will polish bright and blend with remaining plating.

A careful polish with the correct products is the way to do that. Well known polishing products are Flitz, Semi-Chrome, Mother's Mag Wheel polish or the equivalent.

An application of wax, Renaissance wax is a popular one, will enhance and protect the finish if you want something to do while watching the news!

Once cleaned and lubricated, with a few simple checks you can determine if it's safe to use; no need to waste time and money on a gunsmith, especially if you don't know one. Open the cylinder and verify the barrel is unobstructed. Cock the hammer in single action mode. Gently push on the hammer to confirm that it will not drop w/o pulling the trigger. Cock the hammer slowly and confirm the cylinder locks in position for each of the 5 or 6 chambers about the same time the hammer cocks. If satisfactory, now operate the gun in DA pulling the trigger slowly; again confirm the cyl locks before the hammer drops. After each cycling of the action, confirm that the cyl is still locked in position.

Cylinders can have fore and aft movement and rotational movement. Check rotational movement with the hammer cocked just to make sure it won't skip to another chamber. That's all that is really important from a safety concern. Then unless you experience 'spitting' at the barrel/cyl gap when fired, you have no reason for concern.

Shoot it to your hearts delight, and it will delight you with its fine accuracy, and comfortable recoil.

Any current off the shelf 'standard' factory loaded ammo is loaded safely for use in these old guns.

Disassembly
If you do want to venture further to disassemble, although not needed, here are two videos using a gun similar to yours, a .38 Special Model 10, showing step by step disassembly and reassembly:

8/6/16 Best video for disassembly/assembly:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqmlI3FBvLE[/ame]
I don't use the special tool but it sure makes it easier.
 
Groucho

Do you have gun cleaning supplies? That old gun might clean up for you. How would you feel if you shot it and it fell apart? Get to the gunsmith. I have my grampa's gun. I don't shoot it, but it's in really nice shape. You can't devalue this one. Good luck.
PS - time to start looking for gun #2. And 3...
 
Before shooting it I would strongly advise you to replace the grips. Those old grips are made from a hard rubber called gutta percha, it becomes very brittle with age and can easily crack during use. You should be able to get replicas from Vintage Grips.
 

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