Side plate trick

[Oracle]

I have been enjoying S&W revolvers for several decades. I remove the side plate on newly bought revolvers as part of my cleaning regimen and to put in the one drop of oil. As many times I have done this I still need to fiddle to seat the side plate. I came across a Youtube video, Smith & Wesson Model 60, Side Plate Install with Ease, by 76 Highboy Reloading. In less than five seconds the side plate is seated. I thought I would pass this along, if you already know the trick I congratulate you for knowing.

I did not plug in the actual link for the video. I don't want to cross any boundaries.

 

[chief38]

Side Plate removal and replacement is very simply once you know the "trick" of the correct position of the hammer block to be in and how to slide the plate on an angle up into position. It should be able to be pushed back down into place with bare fingers if it is lined up correctly.

I will tell you what I also do..... BEFORE replacing the Cylinder I always insert all the screws and tighten them including the one that captures the Cylinder Yoke in place. I then remove only that one and install the Cylinder - then replace the screw. What this does is it properly seats the Side Plate before the Cylinder in reinstalled. Necessary? Probably not however I like to make sure he Side plate is evenly seated before installing the Cylinder.

I only remove the Side Plates on my S&W Revolvers once every few years for a complete disassembly but that is after many rounds have been fired. Routinely removing the Side Plate with every cleaning is unnecessary, detrimental and will more than likely cause more harm than good. Once every few years (and that's even if well-shot) is more than enough as long as you are shooting quality ammo. That's just my opinion but YMMV.

 

[Moo Moo]

I watched the YouTube video. Seemed like a good idea with the oil. But I was very un-impressed when he kept dropping the screwdrivers on his pristine Model 60. (Although he did point out it was 2am and he should have been wearing his glasses).

 

[H Richard]

Yes, I learned that trick many years ago, and glad I did. I also put a "tiny" smear of grease inside the track that the hammer block rides in.

 

[__steve__]

To remove the cover I just lightly flex the frame axially and it drops out.

This is how I do it, and if it is not a good technique please correct me so I, or anyone else who reads this, won't repeat.

Matching the block is just a game of spatial relationship to surfaces, or near the top but slightly forward at the bottom

 

[AveragEd]

I've always removed side plates by striking the grip frame with a rubber screwdriver handle while holding the barrel with the side plate up. They just "jump" right off.

Ed

 

[Threadkiller]

I've always removed side plates by striking the grip frame with a rubber screwdriver handle while holding the barrel with the side plate up. They just "jump" right off.

Ed

Yeah,I use a little rubber mallet but same thing.

 

[Forefinger]

As newish owner of a 360PD and out of curiosity I just had to remove that side plate and peak at the internals. Fortunately, I had Jerry Kuhnhausen shop manual for S&W Revolvers, and it shows the proper technic for side plate removal. However, the reinstallation procedure did not prominently emphasis the need to have that hammer block in the proper position. I fiddled with that side plate for quite sometime until I finally figured it out. I never thought to look for a YouTube video. DUH!

I have several P.08 Lugers in my collection and it reminded me of the trick one must know to reassemble a Luger (that is replace the cannon on the frame). If you don't know the little trick, you'll spend an eternity in a state of frustration.

 

[Hondo44]

To remove the side plate, I always have the side plate facing down to fall free from the frame and land on a towel. I've seen too many removed with side plate facing up. When they pop loose they also land on the frame with a clatter.

Look closely with magnification, particularly on a high finish gun and you'll see the tiny little dings around the frame opening. Especially if the side plate has been removed that way a few times.
Sure even S&W armorers do it with side plate facing up, but it isn't their gun is it?

I didn't see the video but when I install the plate I wipe a slight amount of oil all around the edges of the plate. After placing the sliding bar in place, align the side plate groove over the bar, and slide the side plate up and home.

 

[Protocall_Design]

You have to keep the hammer block in the up position when replacing the sideplate. I use gravity to help by rolling the grip up in the air about 30 degrees with the barrel still on the bench. Slide the sideplate in place and get it at least partially seated in the frame, then the hammer block will be captured and you can lay the grip back on the bench and finish up.

 

[boykinlp]

I have been enjoying S&W revolvers for several decades. I remove the side plate on newly bought revolvers as part of my cleaning regimen and to put in the one drop of oil. As many times I have done this I still need to fiddle to seat the side plate. I came across a Youtube video, Smith & Wesson Model 60, Side Plate Install with Ease, by 76 Highboy Reloading. In less than five seconds the side plate is seated. I thought I would pass this along, if you already know the trick I congratulate you for knowing.

I did not plug in the actual link for the video. I don't want to cross any boundaries.

As the kids used to say, YouTube videos are "da bomb"! If I don't know how to do something, it is my "go to". It hasn't let me down yet.
Larry

 

[Walter Rego]

When replacing the sideplate I always make sure the mating surfaces are very clean and have a light coat of oil, and then press the plate home with just finger pressure.

But rather than relying upon the rather fine threads in the screws to pull the plate down snug as they are tightened, I use a piece of thin leather as a cushion and then lightly tap around the perimeter of the plate with a small plastic faced hammer. That will get the plate down all the way without stressing the screw threads.

And as others have said, make sure the hammer block is properly aligned first.

 

[toad67]

I always put my left index finger on the left side of the hammer block groove on the side plate. I then nudge it right next to the hammer block and move it up tight against the frame until it drops in. Slight tapping with a soft cloth until it is seated firmly, w/o putting the strain on the screws to pull it into place.

 

[steelslaver]

I have a hammer with threaded on about 1 1/4" thick by 1" OD faces. One side is some kind of yellow nylons and the other side I made a brass piece for. I use the nylon side for rapping the frame to pop plate off and then once it is properly started I give the side plate a tap to seat it before screwing down.

I work with the gun sitting on hockey pucks with various cutouts so it sits firm and level.

 

[chief38]

I've always removed side plates by striking the grip frame with a rubber screwdriver handle while holding the barrel with the side plate up. They just "jump" right off.

Ed

Yes - that is the proper way to REMOVE it - a gun smithing hammer with a plastic or nylon face is also great, but even a wooden hammer handle or screwdriver will suffice. I was only referring to re-installing it.

While we are talking about the removal here - NEVER NEVER pry it off! Lot's of damage to novice owners Revolvers has been done over the years.

 

[JDinAZ]

I just lay the side plate in place then thump it lightly back and forth along the bottom edge starting in the middle with the side of my thumb to seat it