STORMINORMAN
Member
Found an extra slide: anyone with a slide cut done for a Vortex/Doctor/Bushnell red dot out there?
Your kind consideration is appreciated!
Your kind consideration is appreciated!
SIGMA SW40VE: anybody with a slide cut for optic?
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mpreusse13
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There is a company that makes a rear sight mount for a red dot. I can't think of the name right now but they sell on Amazon and eBay I believe.
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Sent from my Vivo XL2 using Tapatalk
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STORMINORMAN
Member
I would love to go that route...!
mpreusse13: I'd love to go that route! Any chance you can unearth their name, please?
mpreusse13: I'd love to go that route! Any chance you can unearth their name, please?
The Nothing
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STORMINORMAN
Member
Well...
Those are, I'm afraid, both for an M&P rear sight cut...
Mine is a SIGMA SW40VE.
Thanks, anyway!
Those are, I'm afraid, both for an M&P rear sight cut...
Mine is a SIGMA SW40VE.
Thanks, anyway!
The Nothing
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Ah yes, I forget the Sigma wasn't blessed with M&P sights like the SDVE...
try jlmachiningworks.com
They've done a lot of work on SD's and I'd imagine they could do Sigmas too
try jlmachiningworks.com
They've done a lot of work on SD's and I'd imagine they could do Sigmas too
Slide Cut
I cut the slide on my SD9VE to fit a Burris III reflex sight. Did it with no issues. I work at a machine shop so on the machinists stayed after work and cut it to shape and drilled and tapped the holes. It sure is sweet now. Hope that helps you.
I cut the slide on my SD9VE to fit a Burris III reflex sight. Did it with no issues. I work at a machine shop so on the machinists stayed after work and cut it to shape and drilled and tapped the holes. It sure is sweet now. Hope that helps you.
GRU_ 7_ mech
Member
What holster could be used with the Sightmount. Looks like the length will not work with my Alien Gear 3.0 holster.
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STORMINORMAN
Member
Great!
Great! Any chance you might have a picture or two of the actual cut (without the Burris III mounted) and/ or with the optic mounted? I'm looking to determine whether it is feasible for the cut to allow a re-insertion of the factory when the optic is removed? Also to see what your machinist chose for the horizontal plane for the sight: was it the rear "shelf" level of the "unique?" factory rear sight, by chance?
Thanks!
P.S. I really do appreciate your response and am aware I'm asking (someone with only a minor exposure to posting on this forum) a lot?
Great! Any chance you might have a picture or two of the actual cut (without the Burris III mounted) and/ or with the optic mounted? I'm looking to determine whether it is feasible for the cut to allow a re-insertion of the factory when the optic is removed? Also to see what your machinist chose for the horizontal plane for the sight: was it the rear "shelf" level of the "unique?" factory rear sight, by chance?
Thanks!
P.S. I really do appreciate your response and am aware I'm asking (someone with only a minor exposure to posting on this forum) a lot?
Slide Cut
I will take a picture and post it when I get home today.
I decided I did not want to save the dovetail groove so we machined it away. We cut the slide to a depth of the dovetail slot. The Burris III sits spanning the old slot and just behind the roll pin for the shell extractor (I can get the pin out without removing the sight) BTW we tapped (I know this will make some cringe) the mount holes 6-32 instead of the gunsmithing accepted size and pitch of 6-48. BTW we drilled 5/16 deep, never broke thru and tapped 1/4" deep.
For me working in a machine shop, metal cutting is second nature as we do it every day. Before you ask. We do not do this work for the general public.
I don't post much but I did a lot of research about milling the slide for a reflex sight and realize there is not a lot out there on the subject.
I will take a picture and post it when I get home today.
I decided I did not want to save the dovetail groove so we machined it away. We cut the slide to a depth of the dovetail slot. The Burris III sits spanning the old slot and just behind the roll pin for the shell extractor (I can get the pin out without removing the sight) BTW we tapped (I know this will make some cringe) the mount holes 6-32 instead of the gunsmithing accepted size and pitch of 6-48. BTW we drilled 5/16 deep, never broke thru and tapped 1/4" deep.
For me working in a machine shop, metal cutting is second nature as we do it every day. Before you ask. We do not do this work for the general public.
I don't post much but I did a lot of research about milling the slide for a reflex sight and realize there is not a lot out there on the subject.
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STORMINORMAN
Member
Thanks so much for the pictures, 121rjb!
You are welcome.
If you can tell from the pictures, we machined a pocket in the slide that the Reflex Sight is nested into. This was done on a CNC mill and we radius both ends of the pocket to match the end radius of the R/S.
F.Y.I. I had wanted the R/S to be positioned about 3/16" more rearward on the slide but due to a calculation error on my part, when we spotted the hole locations and placed the R/S in the pocket, they didn't line up. After a few quick measurements and some machine programming changes we ended up with them in the correct location for the R/S. If I were to do it again I would move the mounting location rearward by 3/16". That would allow much more flexibility when you consider a holster for the firearm. If you want to do something like this you will need to find a good skilled local machinist that has CNC capability.
I hope this helps with your search.
If you can tell from the pictures, we machined a pocket in the slide that the Reflex Sight is nested into. This was done on a CNC mill and we radius both ends of the pocket to match the end radius of the R/S.
F.Y.I. I had wanted the R/S to be positioned about 3/16" more rearward on the slide but due to a calculation error on my part, when we spotted the hole locations and placed the R/S in the pocket, they didn't line up. After a few quick measurements and some machine programming changes we ended up with them in the correct location for the R/S. If I were to do it again I would move the mounting location rearward by 3/16". That would allow much more flexibility when you consider a holster for the firearm. If you want to do something like this you will need to find a good skilled local machinist that has CNC capability.
I hope this helps with your search.
